Hey guys, I am having the worst time with the brakes on my 2005 ML350SE. I have replaced the pads and rotors about 20k miles ago with all OEM parts...They stop fine but they always squeal at low speeds!! As far as I recall, they have always made noise. I took them apart yesterday to roughen up the rotors and pads (theres decent pad life left)
I roughened them up, soaked the rotors to get debris off, put a TON of anti squeal on the back of the pads....I sealed it up...drove around and the noise stopped. Well after 50 miles they are noisy again.
I thought the noisy brakes were an issue on the 500, not the 350...i cleaned with a wire brush over and over....I need help!!
Hey guys, I am having the worst time with the brakes on my 2005 ML350SE. I have replaced the pads and rotors about 20k miles ago with all OEM parts...They stop fine but they always squeal at low speeds!! As far as I recall, they have always made noise. I took them apart yesterday to roughen up the rotors and pads (theres decent pad life left)
I roughened them up, soaked the rotors to get debris off, put a TON of anti squeal on the back of the pads....I sealed it up...drove around and the noise stopped. Well after 50 miles they are noisy again.
I thought the noisy brakes were an issue on the 500, not the 350...i cleaned with a wire brush over and over....I need help!!
Any ideas? Aftermarket rotors or pads willl help?
What make were the pads and what make were the rotors?
My wheels squeaked like crazy last winter. This year I've only heard a slight peep from them twice when they were still cold. It only happened when it was cold outside for me, but you're in Florida...
Joe, pads and rotors should be compared to a marriage. Some of them work and others do not. It's the compatibility of the pads and rotors that haven't been considered here. When a vehicle's brake system is originally designed, engineers require certain compounds in the pad material to work in harmony with the compounds in the rotors. What you have done is turn it into a crap shoot. Brembo rotors are in fact excellent ones. But have you found the right mate?
The term OEM has become a fallacy in the automotive industry. Everyone attaches that term to their product as an incentive to purchase their product. There are only three types of products that should only be considered the true OEM. #1-Purchased from the dealer............#2-Purchased from the supplier who originally made the product for the car manufacturer..................#3-A third party supplier who purchases ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT and packages it under their own name. Take for instance NGK spark plugs which are installed as original equipment in M/B vehicles and have a M/B logo. Although M/B did not manufacture the plugs, both M/B and NGK are both legally considered as OEM. So to put it in a nutshell, if you do not know who manufatured the item, they are not OEM.
I always use genuine MB rotors,pads, and brake paste to save my self from this trouble. I had done the brake 3 times already. No squeal until close to worn out. In NYC, brake only last 15K miles from all the stop and go.
JM
As already posted - the brake pad "paste" (actually a goo, and the new goo comes in a tube large enough to do TON of brake jobs) gets applied to the SIDES of the pads. Do a forum search and you should find the post with a pdf of the MB instructions..I also do a light coat on the back of the pad, which is not instructed by MB, but the SIDES come first.
On "soaking" rotors, I have absolutely no idea of what you are describing - but no matter...
I choose to use slotted/plated rotors, and semi-metallic pads... and with that combo, and correct install with correct use of goop, no problems for me..
R1Concepts or Rotorwork on eBay both have been good sources for me.
With the active competition on parts ... rotor set front or rear are under USD$200 and pad sets undet $100... with affordable parts, parts rehab gets to be a shot in the dark.
Linear Mode
