|07-15-2007, 10:31 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Air Mass Meter works when you clean it
I was at my mechanic the other day and had some repairs done under warranty. Turns out they installed the fuel pump / filter wrong and i had a noise that sounded like a jet engine coming out the rear drivers side fender. Well I had that fixed for FREE since they had just replaced it a few days ago.
Then the mechanic came and told me that when he took the ML around the block he noticed I had no horse power (BALLS). He told me I needed new plugs, plug wires, coil pack, and a new Air Mass Meter (Funny thing is that I had no engine lights or horse powers issues before i brought my ML in). I told him I had just had the plugs changed a few miles ago, that is when he quoted me $1500 for the new wires, coil pack, and Air Mass meter replacement (WOW THATS HIGH).
I left the shop with a Check engine light on, no horse power, and a very vivid image of that mechanic hanging upside down from a cherry picker (USED TO LIFT OUT ENGINES). When I got home I went to our sponsor Autohaus and bought all the parts for under $250 And I also learned you can just replace the Meter unit on the Air Mass sensor for about $100 so I bought one just for future sake.
Turns out the Air mass meter was dirty and all it needed was a spray of a $3 cleaner to get it back up and running. I also noticed wrench markings on the Air mass meter as if someone had taken my unit off and replaced it with a dirty one (HMMM). I did the plug wire changes in a snap, changed the bad coil pack, cleaned the Air Mass Meter, and now my ML runs like a Beast (I LOVE IT). That will be the last time I go to that mechanic for service (I THOUGHT WE WERE FRIENDS).
So the lesson is revise your ML before you go to a mechanic and make sure you know what your parts look like and what condition they are in before they swap your part for a bad one and Rape your wallet.
I went out and bought a paint marker and have marked my parts so that I know if they were my parts to begin with or some else's bad parts they had saved.
Trust me it will save you time and money.
Life is the thing that gets in the way of plans.
|07-16-2007, 12:43 AM||#2 (permalink)|
Date registered: Mar 2005
Vehicle: '01-E320 & 02-ST2
Location: John 15:18-19
Hey, Detane, I did a DIY post on the MAF for the 210, same as the ML 3.2, and it's possible -- just possible, since this place sounds pretty scary -- that the tool markings on the MAF were from them using pliers or vice-grips to remove the security screws that secure the sensor insert into the MAF assembly.
But good "lesson learned" and why it's so important to find a good indie you trust.
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy; its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery. (Winston Churchill)
|07-16-2007, 12:55 AM||#3 (permalink)|
Trust me bro, when I saw the plier marks on the insert screws and the paint chips I knew I had been sabotaged. Plus just knowing that my ride had no check engine lights before I got there or that I had tons of horse power before I got there also made me not want to go back there again.
|07-16-2007, 07:11 AM||#4 (permalink)|
Date registered: Aug 2002
Vehicle: Black 2005 ML 500
Location: Galveston, TX
DETAINE, where did buy the Air Mass Meter unit..? Thanks...
2005 ML 500
Black, 18" AMG Wheels, 285/60R18 Yokohama Geolander HTS + Bi-Xenons(+ Drew's e-code mod, though the reflectors rusted off and do not give out much light anymore), Yakima roof bars, Akebono pads all around. Former vehicle 2001 ML 320 with 108K miles, when traded, and a large repair/defect history. After all these years of owning my current 2005 ML 500, it is a major unreliable vehicle with a very large/expensive repair/defect history and has been like this since brand new.
|07-16-2007, 08:32 AM||#5 (permalink)|
Date registered: Dec 2005
Vehicle: W210 E300DT x2/w211wagon4M / Ford SD, JDtractor. Seeking diesel pushmower
Location: CA Bay Area
If in fact the mechanic was so dishonest and stupid, that replaced MAF for dirty one without proper tools, than he deserves notification to his license board. In CA that can be simply on-line process.
I heard lot of similar stories in the past and that is one of the reasons I do everything myself, or sometimes use my close friend, who owns shop 400 miles away.
Still it makes me wonder how many owners fails for those tricks and get lighter on their wallets.
|07-16-2007, 02:58 PM||#6 (permalink)|
Auto Parts at AutohausAZ - OEM Auto Parts - Discount Replacement Parts, Resources and Car Care Tips
They are a sponsor for this site we all use. And trust me they have great prices and the delivery time was only 3 days.
the wires and coil pack alone was $185, the sensor was about $90 i think
|07-16-2007, 10:58 PM||#7 (permalink)|
Date registered: Oct 2006
Vehicle: 2000 ml430, 99 infiniti i30 limited edition
Dont you hate some of this technicians who want to rip you off for fixes you do not really need? I mean, cmon we already are paying for labor and the parts. Thats why I think there should be a law that every car you buy, there should come with it a book, like a service manual, and also a symptoms and repair guide for that specific car alone. We are so lucky for this forum exists. Without it, we're doomed.
|07-18-2007, 09:43 PM||#8 (permalink)|
I agree 100%
|07-19-2007, 01:24 PM||#10 (permalink)|
Date registered: Oct 2002
Vehicle: 03 ML500
Location: LAS VEGAS
When I had to do it several years ago, it took me 20 minutes to replace the sensor after I bought it from the dealership. I asked one of the mechanics to get me a print out of their shop manual, and he did. They wanted $600 back then, including the part. I got the part for $200, saved $400 for 20 minutes work.
FOUR WHEELING IN STYLE. THE LEGEND CONTINUES.
BLACK 99 ML320
SILVER 03 ML500
BLUE 08 GL320
WHAT'S NEXT MBUSA?
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