Tackling the rear brakes and rotors on '99 ML320 tomorrow - Any tips?
The rear brakes on my ML320 are toast, so I'll be replacing the rear rotors and pads tomorrow. Do the rears have wear sensors or just the front?
Any special tips or advise I should know before hand? Any special tools required? I'm coming from Audi, and it requires a caliper piston tool to spin the piston back into the caliper, Mercedes just needs to be pushed back right?
Any tips would be appreciated so I don't screw up.
I haven't done this yet on an ML but if you have the tool for screwing the piston back in, that would be handy. You can get a generic tool that looks like a cube at most auto parts stores. Just rotate it until you find a pattern that matches and snap it into a ratchet. Apply pressure while turning. If you can simply push it back you will be in luck.
The rear brakes on my ML320 are toast, so I'll be replacing the rear rotors and pads tomorrow. Do the rears have wear sensors or just the front?
Any special tips or advise I should know before hand? Any special tools required? I'm coming from Audi, and it requires a caliper piston tool to spin the piston back into the caliper, Mercedes just needs to be pushed back right?
Any tips would be appreciated so I don't screw up.
if you have time to check my gallery, i have a few pictures that you can take a look. good luck!! you can do it.
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2000 ML320 Black Opal
2003 C320 Sport Sedan Bordeaux Red
1996 Honda Civic...
1991 Black Nissan Truck
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I followed the brake replacement procedure that was posted in this web site. Just do a search.
Don't forget this one little tip before you remove the worn pads.
What I did with the worn pads still in the caliper is to use a wrench to twist against the pads so that the piston gets back to its' original placement. Use the handle of the wrench against the the pads and rotate it while holding the caliper firmly. This will apply equal pressure to both pads to force the two piston on opposing sides to retract. You will feel the piston retracting. Use a wrench with a handle big enough so that when you insert it in the middle of the pads that you will have enough angle left to rotate it.
Very important step since it will save you the hassle when you install the new pads and they are thicker than the old one and you cannot get it in.
The recommendation from the old post is to use a wood in between the pads. The wrench handle worked better for me.
I ordered the potterfield brakes and they came with the silencer kit for the rear. I just did this two week ago. I have less dust and no noise nowadays and thanks to the DIY posts from this forum. I will be back for more.
all you need is a big pair of channel locks for the piston. rear brakes on mercedes are the same as the front, just smaller. no need for any special cube tool to rotate the piston, it pushes back in like the front. you have 2 13mm screws holding the caliper to the hub, then 2 13mm screws holding a bracket to the front of the rotor, still not sure what its purpose is. then a 6mm hex head i think it is for the screw on the rotor if replacing it. then just smack the shit out of the rotor to remove it.
all you need is a big pair of channel locks for the piston. rear brakes on mercedes are the same as the front, just smaller. no need for any special cube tool to rotate the piston, it pushes back in like the front. you have 2 13mm screws holding the caliper to the hub, then 2 13mm screws holding a bracket to the front of the rotor, still not sure what its purpose is. then a 6mm hex head i think it is for the screw on the rotor if replacing it. then just smack the shit out of the rotor to remove it.
Took care of the rears last night. Only took about an hour, very easy overall. The only weird part for me was getting the wheels off with the MB lugwrench. The lug wrench that came with my truck wouldn't fit in the openings for the wheels. Very strange. I just used my 17mm socket anyways, but I was just puzzled why the OEM lug wrench wasn't working..unless I have a mismatched jackstand/tool set from a different Benz.