How to replace the drive-shaft center (support) bearing ML320, 2002? - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#21 (permalink) Old 10-08-2010, 11:32 AM
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Febi Drive shaft support

Since no one respond to my previous post.
I am going with the Febi driveshaft support kit. Part No. 29600(OEM 163 410 00 10)
I hope is the same with what the dealership is selling.

How to replace the drive-shaft center (support) bearing ML320, 2002?-deive-shaft-support.jpg

Last edited by Astani; 10-08-2010 at 11:34 AM.
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#22 (permalink) Old 10-08-2010, 06:02 PM
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The Febi is a good choice.
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#23 (permalink) Old 10-09-2010, 05:04 AM
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The Febi is a good choice.
But is it 78% better than the other choices?
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#24 (permalink) Old 10-09-2010, 10:11 AM
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To benzml350,

The day I finished replacing that center support I was talking to my girlfriend (of course she could care less) and I asked the same question.......why not just make it one big solid drive shaft?

Before anyone responds to give me an explanation as to why it cannot be a solid shaft because of clearances or some engineering reference, it was a rhetorical question!
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#25 (permalink) Old 10-09-2010, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by elomont View Post
To benzml350,

The day I finished replacing that center support I was talking to my girlfriend (of course she could care less) and I asked the same question.......why not just make it one big solid drive shaft?

Before anyone responds to give me an explanation as to why it cannot be a solid shaft because of clearances or some engineering reference, it was a rhetorical question!
Two piece drive shaft is not something specific to ML or Mercedes. All safety minded manufacturers use that design. In horrific crash two piece drive shaft allows vehicle to buckle.
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1972 280SEL 4.5
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2000 E320
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#26 (permalink) Old 10-31-2011, 01:04 PM
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I did this repair over the weekend and have several comments.

In general, all of the advice is very good, especially the suggestion to use liberal amounts of "liquid wrench". Soak the UV joint just behind the support bearing and of course those 2 16mm SOB's which hold the bearing in place. A little heat from a propane torch is also a good idea. I applied it from the bottom through the holes in the frame cross member, that plus the liquid wrench should do it. Mine had only been there for 18 months but it was still hard to remove.

The suggestion to dispense with removing the whole driveshaft is a good one. The 4 bolts on the rear axle differential are terrible and I sheared one off. They are supposed to be torqued at only 50nM, so I do not understand what was the problem. I will get this drilled out and replaced. I was too scared to continue with the other three.

Don't hesitate, get the Gearwrench 16mm tool, flexible head was not necessary, Sears has it for less than $20.

Removing the clamp nuts is a royal pain, even with a vise, forget it. Take the shaft with the bearing to the local garage and it is off in 5 seconds with a air ratchet gun. No vise was needed. Put the bearing and UV joint end on with a tap from a rubber hammer so you can get the washer and clamp nut on. Then the rachet the nut on to drive the everything into place. I torqued the nuts to 150nM with a small vise, no problem.

Get a 2 arm puller to remove the UV joint end, piece of cake, then the bearing, no problem. You are aware of all the comments for marking the alignment, include both parts of the UV joint mentioned above.

Mark the position of the bearing mounting bracket on the frame cross member. There is a lot of play and you must get the bearing lined up right. Grease or Antiseize those bolts for the next time.

Good luck
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#27 (permalink) Old 11-04-2011, 07:46 AM
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ML320 Center Support Bearing - OEM supplier info

Last bits of information:

I ended up installing a Hamburg-Technic part #1703-18711. It looked very good, was stamped Germany, and I have every indication it was high quality. The only problem I had was with the U joint clamps. The new ones supplied did not fit, so I used the old ones.

The old bearing was installed by the dealer and it was a Spicier unit. The bracket was stampled #233031, but that is the number for the bracket only. The assembed unit is part # 212244-1X, see page 8 in the attached doc. Spicer is also stamped on the U joint end piece on the intermediate shaft, so it seems a safe bet Spicier was the OEM supplier.

All in all, not a very tough project.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Spicer center support bearing.pdf (1.01 MB, 636 views)
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#28 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 06:16 PM
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The 16mm bolts holding the carrier are locktited so heat would be a very good idea.

The aluminum heat shields under the truck are very sharp and well positioned to removed unneeded spare pieces of flesh. Well, if you don't leave a little blood behind it's not really a maintenece job, right?
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#29 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlisle View Post
I ended up installing a Hamburg-Technic part #1703-18711. It looked very good, was stamped Germany, and I have every indication it was high quality.
I installed a Hamburg-Technic bearing just over a year ago. Already it is time to replace it. It is, however, about 1/3 the cost of "genuine Mercedes".

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlisle View Post
... it seems a safe bet Spicier was the OEM supplier...
Dana Spicer Driveshaft Division was indeed the OEM driveshaft supplier for the W163.

Lenny

"Still plays with cars."
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#30 (permalink) Old 06-29-2014, 09:45 PM
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(Thread Starter)
I completed my second Drive shaft support bearing on my car 2 weeks ago.
The second time ever was a breeze. Mind you I started at 11pm finished at 4:15 am up at
6:00 am for work,
My small input:
Purchase all new bolts before you start
Purchase paint marker
When working alone as I did - vehicle on 4 jack stands - in order to hold Dshaft in place so as to torque the bolts: It helps to get a short bar to lock the rear of the drive shaft through the those half moon holes on the back Dshaft against the body
Don't forget the 2 leaver puller
What I am still confused about is that the two holes for the two bolts on the base plate / housing on the bearing is large or oversized so u can mess up alignment when installing so perhaps you should mark the a line on the old base or mounting plate where it meets the body and its corners were it hangs over the body so as to assist in aligning on the new one


Ps mine was so bad it was missing balls within the bearing
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Last edited by Smith007; 06-30-2014 at 07:20 AM.
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