Alot of guys used to talk about the fumoto valve on here a few years ago. I haven't heard many peolpe mention them lately. The post a few days ago from a first time DIYer reminded me of the mess.
I wanted to know any feedback, like or dislikes about them.
Since the ML's are getting so old now, I guess many of the original posters have moved on to the other forums ? I hope someone has experience over time with these. Since I am out of warranty I am thinking of purchasing one.
Alot of guys used to talk about the fumoto valve on here a few years ago. I haven't heard many peolpe mention them lately. The post a few days ago from a first time DIYer reminded me of the mess.
I wanted to know any feedback, like or dislikes about them.
Since the ML's are getting so old now, I guess many of the original posters have moved on to the other forums ? I hope someone has experience over time with these. Since I am out of warranty I am thinking of purchasing one.
I never posted links before,so if it doesn't go through,just add the W's and the com.
Please
Let me know if anyone has experience with them
I've had one for several years now and love it. Get the one with the nipple so you can attach a piece of rubber hose to it for a nice clean splatter free drain. My 2 cents.
I know this is not your question and I'm not hi-jacking the thread but if your looking for a easy way to change your oil look at the pumps that go down the dip stick. I'm sure someone will say they don't work or they don't get all the oil. I say they are great, I have used them on all my cars and boat. I've even sucked all the oil out and then pulled the drain plugs to see if any comes out. None, check it out. Mine will reverse and you can pump the old oil into jugs. The key is to cut the tube at an angle so it lays flat on the oil pan bottom.
I believe you if you say it gets all the oil but, I am surprised.
It still seems like alot of work other than just twisting the valve open and closed. Plus, if I have an outside shop do it (Buddy) they won't have to clean the underside of the truck.
I wonder how much gets left in the pan with the valve. I guess it would still be cleaner when drained just remove the valve like you tested with the pump.
Dealerships, many independent service shops, tech advisors and many owners, including this one, use the dipstick removal system. It is very thorough for getting all the oil. The MityVac system is a common one used.
I was a sceptic and a "pull the plug" advocate until after I had enough experience using the vacuum removal system. I am now almost exclusively a fan of this method. I have only used the drain plug method on equipment that I cannot use the vacuum.
I saw those devices several years ago and considered getting one. I think I'm going to go ahead, I'm tired of wraping plastic around swaybar to keep it from getting oil all over it every time I change oil.
Did you have to get the adapter too? I think the numbers are F106N and Adapter ADP106
I saw those devices several years ago and considered getting one. I think I'm going to go ahead, I'm tired of wraping plastic around swaybar to keep it from getting oil all over it every time I change oil.
Did you have to get the adapter too? I think the numbers are F106N and Adapter ADP106
They say you need the adapter, I haven't called yet. I think it maybe better unless the vacuum pump doesn't drip when removing or storing the thing.
I saw those devices several years ago and considered getting one. I think I'm going to go ahead, I'm tired of wraping plastic around swaybar to keep it from getting oil all over it every time I change oil.
Did you have to get the adapter too? I think the numbers are F106N and Adapter ADP106
Yes, ML320('98-on) requires Adapter ADP106. You can run a short piece of rubber hose into the drain pan. After I'm finished draining, I just tuck the hose back up over the crossmember until the next time. I've also had them on a couple of cars I've owned, makes an oil change a breeze.
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