I recently had my front rotors replaced on my 2000 ML430. The thickness of the worn rotors was measured to be 28.1 mm. I believe that that original rotors are 32.0 mm thick and that the official minimum is 30.0 mm.
So how close was I to a rotor problem? There was no indication of warped rotors or diminished braking of any kind. I suspect that Mercedes is overly conservative with rotor minimums due to the high profits made with brake parts and services.
Service advisors will often recommend rotor replacements even when the rotors are still within specifications, the excuse being that you will not be in specifications for your next annual service.
I recently had my front rotors replaced on my 2000 ML430. The thickness of the worn rotors was measured to be 28.1 mm. I believe that that original rotors are 32.0 mm thick and that the official minimum is 30.0 mm.
So how close was I to a rotor problem? There was no indication of warped rotors or diminished braking of any kind. I suspect that Mercedes is overly conservative with rotor minimums due to the high profits made with brake parts and services.
Service advisors will often recommend rotor replacements even when the rotors are still within specifications, the excuse being that you will not be in specifications for your next annual service.
DelJ
I believe in changing rotors for a couple reasons. First is what I call mate and match. The original pads and rotors have mated themselves over time. New pads on old rotor surfaces just never quite match again like the originals. Second, rotors can develope hard spots, especially if you live where it snows and/or has a lot of rain. Water on a hot rotor can change the harness in the rotor, but not evenly. I have surfaced used GM rotors and have seen this from the different color sparks they generate. Just my thoughts on the subject, but each to their own! [8D]
I assume that you meant changing rotors every time you need pads. The big downside to this is the astronomical cost: $240 per axle for new MB rotors plus more for the additional labor.
My experience is that nothing that you said translates into diminished braking. My brakes were functioning just fine all along. I really cannot detect any difference between the new and old rotors.
DelJ
Quote:
dakat - 2/5/2006 8:24 PM
I believe in changing rotors for a couple reasons. First is what I call mate and match. The original pads and rotors have mated themselves over time. New pads on old rotor surfaces just never quite match again like the originals. Second, rotors can develope hard spots, especially if you live where it snows and/or has a lot of rain. ....
I assume that you meant changing rotors every time you need pads. The big downside to this is the astronomical cost: $240 per axle for new MB rotors plus more for the additional labor.
My experience is that nothing that you said translates into diminished braking. My brakes were functioning just fine all along. I really cannot detect any difference between the new and old rotors.
DelJ
Quote:
dakat - 2/5/2006 8:24 PM
I believe in changing rotors for a couple reasons. First is what I call mate and match. The original pads and rotors have mated themselves over time. New pads on old rotor surfaces just never quite match again like the originals. Second, rotors can develope hard spots, especially if you live where it snows and/or has a lot of rain. ....
If you're going to copy my quote, copy it all. I had said in closing "each to their own". I do all the brake work on all my vehicles and always have, being an automotive mechanic in my younger years, so I don't have to pay MB labor. I can afford the parts and the gas for my ML 500 and the ML 430 before that. I just want mating parts to both start out new. No more than I would put new piston rings in old cylinders. Your brakes may work fine to your liking, and as I said before, "each to their own". Thank you----- [8D]
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