My 2001 (Facelift) ML320 driver side front shock needs replacing as it is leaking everywhere! I have sourced ML350 Shocks from a 2003 ML which was fire damaged. Will these fit my 320 and is it adviseable to use old shocks they are £125, approx $225 US. Can i have you opinions guys. I want to replace the leaking shock soon, can anyone recommend any other makes of shocks or are Merc Shocks the best?
I just installed a set of Bilsteins on the 430 and I expect the proceedure would be extremely similar for the 320. A pair of shocks purchased together was only $200 on-line and took fairly little time to install.
Remove the top nut first. The bottom connection is a large bolt and the top is a nut on a threaded rod. With the car on jack-stands, I put another stand just below one of the wheel spindles. (wheels are off). The suspension weight is taken up inside the shock so this stops the OEM shock top threaded shaft from turning as you loosen the nut. It is deep in the engine area and not really accessable from below. A deep socket on a long extension allows you to loosen the top shock nut from atop the engine compartment very easily. When the nut comes off, the front wheel spindle (suspension) will fall to the waiting jackstand, hopefully - not too far - mine hardly moved as I had it set correctly, but the nut pops off under the pressure - but your gonna throw the shock out anyway.
Put the bottom bolt in first. A lot of torque is required to free the OEM bottom bolt as it is very large and it is important that this one not come out over time, so replacement should involve significant foot pound installation pressure (torque).
The Bilstein shock has a recessed 5 mm hex in the top threaded rod, which allows you to install the shock with an open end wrench and a hex drive on a long extension. With the bottom bolt installed, I raised the suspension (jack up the spindle) enough to put some upward pressure on the upper shock assembly (as if the wheel was on and the weight of the car was being supported by the suspension). The shock top nut is secured from turning with an open wrench and then the threaded rod can be turned to tighten the nut with the long 3/8 extension from atop the engine compartment. The replacement nuts are nylock - so they will not come off easily. Just make sure the assembly of bushings is reassembled properly and sitting correctly in the upper shock mount before tightening the upper threaded rod. I could reach the top of both shock in this way fairly easily. I did not have to remove any stuff , but the left side was a little more difficult.
The rears look as though they are another story all together.
Linear Mode
