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Old 07-22-2005, 11:44 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Date registered: Apr 2005
Vehicle: 1999 ML320
Location: Seattle Suburbs
Posts: 585
RE: Wagner Thermo-Quiet Pads

My ML is getting the "B" service and my SA just called to tell me that my rear brakes are below specs and wants to replace the rear pads for $350.
I declined.

With the positive feedback I'm reading on the Wagner Thermoquiet pads, I going to get them.

When you install new pads, do you need to turn the rotors (provided the old pads haven't eaten into the rotors)?
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Old 07-22-2005, 04:36 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Date registered: Aug 2002
Vehicle: MBs
Location: Northern California
Posts: 2,550
RE: Wagner Thermo-Quiet Pads

Quote:
John_L - 7/22/2005 11:44 AM
When you install new pads, do you need to turn the rotors (provided the old pads haven't eaten into the rotors)?
John, MB rotors usually don't need to be turned. If they are worn, new ones for the ML are pretty reasonably priced, around $50 or so for Brembos.
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Old 06-27-2008, 02:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2008
Posts: 1
Hellow everyone.

I was skimming google and I came accross your conversation about brake pads.

I own a nissan 350z and I realize its not a Benz but I think you will realy like what I have to say.


I went from oem brake pads to the Thermo quiet pads.

Those pads completely destroyed my rotors in 6 months.
So I went on a mission to find the truth.

I started emailing all kinds of racing shops and even spoke with some High level techs.

I looked at the 4 thousand dollar big brake kits and read threw tones of reviews.

This is what I have gathered.

If your not doing heavy track usage or racing you dont need bb kits.
I just wanted great breakes , no dust and no squeeking pads and killer bite.

So this is what all my reasearch has come up with.

replaced my oem rotors with : power slot Cryogenic treated slotted rotors oem size.
170 each.

carbotech.com ceramic pads bobcat 1521
122 front 100 rear

goodridge stainless steel braided brake line kit
200

ATE super blue dot 4 brake fliud. dot 4 is a must if you have ABS. do not use synthetic or dot 5. remember to do a complete flush and refill of all calipers and lines and resivore. ( very important )

I work For TireKingdom Corporate and have spoken with our racing team about this.
All preliminary tests lead to dot 4 .

I also installed a Stillen master cylnder brace to firm up the brake pedal.

I now have unbeleiveable brakes. Far better than OEM and with no dust or squeek.

and the beautie of the rotor and pad combo is that the ceramic pad will not harm the rotor, thus saving me big cash and down time in the long run.

Unlike the thermo quit pads which will eat rotors for lunch.


Now , the steel brake lines and new fluid also made a big difference. Probably the biggest of all.


Well I hope this helps you spend you money more effectivly and you will now know what wonderful braking is like.

Unrelated but important info I learned.

ALLWAYS FOLLOW THE BED IN PROCESS WHEN CHANGING BRAKE PADS.

Police crusiers use cryo treated rotors and swear by them.

Rotors with drilled holes are a scam, Don't buy them. If you must have holes you can get rotors that are slotted and have the holes in the slots.
thats right, the holes are in the slots , more $ but are very nice.


drilled rotors = scam. I have seen set after set cracked.


drilled and or slotted rotors are not recomemded for racing. bar none.

steel brake lines must be braided if there is snow in your geography. This protects them from liquid salt. which is calcium chloride. a severe metal corrosive.

Thank god I live in Sunny South Florida

Well there it is. Countless hour of research has been done for you, hope you find it usefull.

feel free to email me

peeeeec
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