the truck still won't crank all the way over. it starts and then dies again. the Cold Crank Amp is 850 and 1000 for the regular crank output (new battery from Les Schwab tire center).
any ideas before i get it towed tomorrow?
thanks.
R.
__________________
98 ML320
94 Integra B20/VTEC (12 sec. All Motor)
01 Porsche Boxster
the truck still won't crank all the way over. it starts and then dies again. the Cold Crank Amp is 850 and 1000 for the regular crank output (new battery from Les Schwab tire center).
any ideas before i get it towed tomorrow?
thanks.
R.
Did you check out this post: - make sure you have exact same symptoms otherwise it may not be battery related...or you may have incorrect battery...
thanks for the reply. yes, i've read those posts before. the original battery was dying...when i try to start it it just goes "click-click-click". the radio works, navigation, instrument cluster, lights, horns.
so i tried to jump it by using my porsche boxster to help. the truck starts and dies after a second or so. i thought maybe the boxster's battery was to small and weak to help the Benz to fully start. i bought a new battery from Kragen and same thing happened -- it starts and then dies. i thought maybe the cranking power of the new battery is not enough. so i bought another one with a higher output from Les Schwab -- same thing, start and then dies!
i'll see if i can bang the fuel tank or something.
There is an inbeded security device in each key which is sensed by the ignition switch. You can start the vehicle and it will run for about 1/2 second than die if you dont have the right key code or a damaged key. A new key will have to be reprogrammed into the system. This is a separate 'engine' code system not the door lock code system.
Having just the "key" portion of the key will not start the vehicle. You need the entire key assembly which includes the RFID system chip.
There is an inbeded security device in each key which is sensed by the ignition switch. You can start the vehicle and it will run for about 1/2 second than die if you dont have the right key code or a damaged key. A new key will have to be reprogrammed into the system. This is a separate 'engine' code system not the door lock code system.
Having just the "key" portion of the key will not start the vehicle. You need the entire key assembly which includes the RFID system chip.
Try one of your spare keys.
Good Luck.
Mike
Mike, u might be right. i was actually thinking about that but i only have one key. i'll keep u guys posted.
Immobilizer or Driver Authorization System (DAS) - All M-Class vehicles (or at least the 98) are equipped with the Driver Authorization System controlled by the All Activity Module through a CAN bus that communicates with the ME-SFI control module.
At each start attempt, the AAM and ECM exchange codes. The AAM approves of fuel enabling by the ECM only if it recognizes a valid key code in the ignition system. With an invalid code, the starter may operate, but the engine will not be allowed to start.
DAS uses an ignition key module containing a transponder (EEPROM memory) in which a fixed and rolling access code is written. This code is read by the AAM and compared with the code stored in the AAM. If the AAM recognizes the code as "correct," it creates a new rolling code and writes it into the transponder of the key. In this way the code always changes to provide engine starting only with the "correct" key.
The AAM generates a new rolling code every time the system recognizes a valid key in the ignition switch.
that sounds like the same thing that happened in our old C-class. It would start and then die after .5 s or 1 s. If we took the key out and tried it again it would work (sometimes after 2 or 3 tries). It sounds like the key is bad for you...
Linear Mode
