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ETS BAS warning light fix...

156K views 106 replies 56 participants last post by  Neo7  
#1 · (Edited)
Usual legal disclaimer stuff…

You under take this repair at your own risk. The writer assumes absolutely no responsibility in anyway shape or form for any losses incurred while performing this fix.

With this in mind read on…..

If the pictures below aren't showing, then follow this link Brake Pedal Switch Goes Bad

If your BAS ETS warning light occasionally illuminates for no apparent reason, stays lit for a while then mysteriously resets itself, you most likely have a faulty brake pedal switch.

This is a fairly common ML problem and most MB dealers will likely stock the replacement switch, most recent part number as of Dec '06 is 001-545-64-09 and the cost is now something like $23.

Here's a picture of the offending part taken on a genuine ML floor mat.

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Fortunately the part is inexpensive ($13 plus tax) and easy to replace.

Anyone who can handle a screwdriver and has ½ hour to spare should be able to perform this repair.

Now read on to save yourself a few bucks, fix the BAS ETS problem and have a closer look at the fine engineering of your ML (plastic accelerator pedal assembly excluded !)

Start by removing the cover which goes round the brake and accelerator pedals.
Do this by first removing the two large 1� diameter plastic nuts shown here.

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I’ve found a large bladed flat screwdriver works well to rotate them anti-clockwise.

Having removed the plastic nuts, remove the two black screws shown here in these two pictures.
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This picture was taken from a different angle.
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Carefully pull the plastic cover away, but take care as the OBDII connector will still be attached.

For better access remove the OBDII connector from the cover by sliding the retaining latch to the right as shown here.
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Set the plastic cover aside out of the way.

The brake switch can now be seen in position just above the brake pedal.

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It is easily removed by depressing the tab and rotating it 90 degrees clockwise.

The switch should now be free and hanging by its leads.

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Make a note of the connector locations and orientation then disconnect them both.

Discard the old switch (or save it for later examination !)

Re-connect the cables to the new switch taking care to orientate them correctly, the re-install the switch. Make sure the locating tab clicks securely into the bracket and that the cables are not snagged on anything.

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Out of interest, take a close look at the accelerator pedal assembly – what a cheesy set-up. No wonder some owners complain of slack or wobble.

Also take a close look at the distance between the brake pedals resting point and how far it needs to travel before it starts to exert pressure on the brake master cylinder – hmmm interesting eh ?

Anyway, your nearly done !

Re-attached the OBDII connector to the cover by relocating the connector then sliding the latch back to the left. Make sure the OBDII connector is firmly fixed in place, then put the cover back in place.

I found it easiest to secure the cover in place by means of the 2 black screws first, the re-fasten the front in place with the black nuts.

Finally turn on the iginition and check that your brake lights work – hey you might even find you have an unrelated blown bulb !
 
#3 ·
Don't care what you say, you are liable! I followed your instructions on how to remove the

gas cap and look at my finger now!
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Or, you could give me a ride in your 996 and I'll drop my legal action against you...
 
#4 ·
timf, Thanks a lot for sharing...very nice It will definately help us to save some money on labor[:)][;)]

Gracias
 
#5 ·
Great document on this common problem, and your instructions work perfectly, too, for fixing up

Great document on this common problem, and your instructions work perfectly, too, for fixing up the sticky gas pedal problem by applying lithium grease(or prefered lubricant) to the sticking pedal plastic hinge. Never had that nasty sticky/notchy gas pedal problem again after I greased the gas pedal hinge.

Again, thanks.. Now that I know how easy it is to change the brake switch (thanks to your clear instructions), I will not get mugged again by my dealership high labor costs.

There is a difference between gladly paying high dollars for high quality labor, parts, and expertise, and being forced to pay high dollars for highly over charged minimal procedures on sub-quality/defective/under-designed parts.

Thanks again..

AC
 
#39 ·
Totally agree. :0 another happy benzworld.org happy user.

Great document on this common problem, and your instructions work perfectly, too, for fixing up the sticky gas pedal problem by applying lithium grease(or prefered lubricant) to the sticking pedal plastic hinge. Never had that nasty sticky/notchy gas pedal problem again after I greased the gas pedal hinge.

Again, thanks.. Now that I know how easy it is to change the brake switch (thanks to your clear instructions), I will not get mugged again by my dealership high labor costs.

There is a difference between gladly paying high dollars for high quality labor, parts, and expertise, and being forced to pay high dollars for highly over charged minimal procedures on sub-quality/defective/under-designed parts.

Thanks again..

AC
 
#6 ·
This is just too easy....

Changed the offending switch on a neighbors ML - took me all of 7 minutes from start to finish. Yes we were timing it and no I wasn't even trying to be fast !
I wonder what the 'standard' MB service time is for this repair ? :)

I recommended he visit this site to learn more about the inner workings of his ML.
 
#7 ·
Thanks Tim! It was very easy and without a doubt saved me a trip to the MB Service Dept.
FYI, anyone with a 98' ML the part# that worked for my ML was 0015452009. If you need to replace this part make sure to bring your VIN # with you so MB can make sure of the correct part.

Thanks again Tim! That publication was a great help! [:)]
 
#11 ·
RE: ETS BAS light's still coming on

Afer replacing that part, the ETS BAS light's went away but now are coming on again (1 day later). Any idea of what else may be causing this?
TIA
Through my experience on mine, the dealer replaced my brake booster, during that time.Fixed under warranty and by curiousity I asked the parts guy how much is the cost of the booster, he said $780.00[:0]Good thing it happened while I still have some warranty left[:)]
 
#13 ·
RE: ETS BAS light's still coming on

texasdanml430 - 5/20/2004 1:24 PM

mine wouldnt go out either, so most recently, my dealer replaced the steering column, to replace the steering angle sensors!! good thing its still under warranty (barely).
That`s what happen to mine also. They changed the steering column and the steering sensors. But what exactly happened was when I unscrew one of the ground wire it touches the other wire then all the doors went on&off that`s when my BAS/ESP came out for awhile and gone.
 
#15 ·
Having just replaced my brake switch, I'd like to add a few, hopefully helpful, things.

1) The updated part number is 001-545-64-09.

2) The plunger on the switch can retract and extend (didn't know that.. thought I got a wrong part!). It produces a clicking sound while extending/retracting.

3) When installing this new one, start with fully extended plunger (it'll be too long for the ML). Then with brake pedal fully depressed, put the switch in and secure by rotating counter-clockwise. Then, pull the pedal kinda hard back (not too hard though...) -- you will hear clicking sound as the plunger adjusts itself to required length.

W/o depressing the brake pedal it'd be hard to install with plunger fully extended.

That's it. Thanks Tim for this great walkthrough.
 
#16 ·
l want to thank Tim...for this DIY..l finished it, this past weekend....and so far..eveything is wonderful..no lights at all.......One side note though....When l gave the parts department the part number, they told me they have a new part, and indeed, the white piece, with the spring action, is longer, but the install was still the same....Thanks again Tim..........[:D]
 
#18 ·
I also had the ets/bas light lit. Although no driving difficulties I changed out the brake pedal switch, followed instructions lights still lit. then my brake lights quit working and my drivers side stop/tail light won't go out, even if the ignition in off and lights are off. I went back to the dealer and got another brake pedal switch, but to no avail. does anyone have any clue as to what is going on?
 
#19 ·
ANother Thank You to TimF !!! BAS/ETS light

WOW, just another THANK YOU for the Perfect instructions...Did the job in ~ 15 minutes last night on our 01 ML320...

Hardest part was removing and installing the pedal cover!!! Again, thx, great forum (crappy ML, but great forum!!!)

Tomer
No.Cal
 
#20 ·
You're welcome....

Seems my little contribution to BenzWorld continues to save long suffering ML owners a few bucks ;-)

Regards Tim
 
#21 ·
I just replaced the switch on 2001 CLK 55. Thanks for the great instructions because it took all of about 10 mins with cleanup...

The part cost is now $25.30 from the dealership who had it in stock.

When i pulled the old one out i noticed that it was simply just stuck in one position. One squirt of wd40 and it was working fine again. I tested it and its fine, although i left the new one in.

So before you buy one you might want to just check the old one first.. At least for a quick fix!