So, I bought a rebuilt steering box, and it looks like I will be spending a weekend dealing with this and worn idler arm bushings.
I am thinking about tackling the leaking oil pan around the same time, too.
It is my understanding that the front subframe crossmember blocks the 3 front bolts for the pan. It is my understanding that the engine has be lifted a bit to gain access to these bolts.
If so, I rather not disconnect both mounts because of concerns about lining everything back up. So, I am contemplating the following procedure:
1. Disconnect right passenger lower motor mount bolts.
2. Raise engine slightly by using block of wood under oil pan and jack
3. Remove 3 front bolts
4. Lower engine
5. Remove rest of oil pan bolts
6. Remove pan (I presume access issue is only related to front 3 bolts and pan should otherwise be able to slip out--if I am incorrect, please advise)
7. Install new gasket. Is there an off the shelf gasket sealant that works? Or, do you install new gasket without sealant?
8. Slip pan back onto motor. Put in as many bolts as possible.
9. Jack up motor again to gain access to front 3 bolts blocked by crossmember
10. Enjoy an adult beverage as an oily mess
Anyone have experience with this? Am I missing something?
i did it 10 times i think. tried ca. 5 types of gaskets. finally i have found that oil leak is from a hole in front of engine. there should be a bolt in the hole ... but it was not.
i do not know how s420 engine differs from s500. if not much regarding oil pan, then i can give you a big lecture of this job .
i ended with my own variant of oil pan. I used liquid metal to flatten the rim of the pan. In addition i made an aluminium gasket and used some special liquid for assembly of metal parts instead of original silicone gasket. So i used this liquid below and above the aluminium gasket. There are two types of such liquid: one which enables relatively easy dissasembly of parts when needed and another one which does not allow it. I used first one. I think pictures tell everything.
replacing oil pan gasket was i think one of hardest thing in my life. I spent i think 200 eur on original MB gaskets before my "invention". as you can see the oil pan rim is not flat and it acts like a knife. I used torque key (12 Nm) however i still cut the original gasket. I bought a new oil pan too to be completely sure that i have new parts. I cut the gasket again ...
If you want to hear (see) about my other solutions i can send more photos. I also can say that your plan is awkward. there is more elegant way to remove the oil pan and to keep your fingers on your arms.
please do not start this job before me or some other member will advise you to make it safely.
if you mean the picture of the missing bolt ... i do not have. In times when I thought that mechanics can do better job than me (i was so wrong) one mechanic did not put a bolt into upper oil pan. I remember its position is right at timing chain cover on left side of the engine.
Whenever I replaced oil pan gasket (due to o-ring for oil level sensor replacement) and I went for a test drive, I had a leak. Oil pan (including gasket) was wet after ca 10 kilometers. I assumed i did not replace the gasket correctly. But like i wrote it turned out that the bolt in upper oil pan was missing and it was a source of a leak. On the right side it was same but there the bolt was broken and partially in the engine. So I used silicone sealer to cover it. So on bith sides of engine i had a relatively small but consistent source of leak and it was on a "proper" location to made me sure it is oil pan gasket. BTW, I do not believe in MB design of lower oil pan and corresponding gasket.
here is another solution with 3 mm thick rubber for gaskets. I bought it in a shop with gaskets in shape of sheet and cut it on my own. Under each hole i used a washer to level the height of the hole and material around the hole on the oil pan. i made 5 mm thick aluminum blocks to distribute bolt's force evenly onto larger oil pan area. this prevented the rim around the hole to cut into the gasket. Unfortunately i thought that this solution does not work because if the leak described above. later i made corrections of the oil pan like indicated above ... but i am sure it was not necessary. the pictures talk for themselves.
Been busy with work but meant to express my thanks for the helpful comments. I will probably tackle this when it gets a bit warmer and after I fix the steering box and idler arm.
ok, i just want to say you that lift and secure the front end of the car. then remove two bolts of engine mounts from below. then lift the engine, and transmission of course, with hydraulic lift. put it directly (close) below flywheel, use your common sense to select area which is strong in order not to break engine housing. before that remove plastic shroud on the fan which cools engine. secure engine in order to keep your fingers. i put hardwood blocks between engine mount and subframe so if something goes wrong the engine does not cut your fingers.
then you can remove all bolts around the oil pan. that's it. you will manage the rest ...
bolts are tightened with 12 Nm by instructions, but i am not able to put original gasket back in one piece, that's why i made my own.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Mercedes-Benz Forum
7.6M posts
693.6K members
Since 1999
BenzWorld.org forum is one of the largest Mercedes-Benz owner websites offering the most comprehensive collection of Mercedes-Benz information anywhere in the world. The site includes MB Forums, News, Galleries, Publications, Classifieds, Events and much more!