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My $480 1998 S420

6K views 57 replies 11 participants last post by  nicave13 
#1 ·
New to the forum and wanted to share a project I have been working on. I bought it with the engine knocking and shaking, no coolant in it and stuck in hard limp home mode. But it only had 149k and I felt there was a good car in there somewhere...

Had to trailer it home. Trimmed lower rad hose as all coolant leaked out with hose split from over tightened clamp. I just cut out bad part, first fix.

Next I fixed upper engine rattle with new oiler O-rings and fixed 4 blown caps. yup, I simply used bic pen caps and I epoxied all of them in place.

Then T-stat was stuck, boy was that a PITA!!! Least she runs cool now.
 

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#2 ·
Running, but not driving...

Thanks again to Benz World research I checked Trans codes and saw I needed a new Trans Conductor plate to get out of limp home mode. $75 for new plate, filter and gasket and $50 in fluid and we were in business!!!

Well all of the doors and trunk didn't suck closed so I fiddled with it and replaced some old leaky hoses, yada, yada and they work now :)

While I was in the trunk I saw some rust, even being a west coast car, yuck! I hate rust being from MO so I knocked that out with some grinding, etching and finally painting. Good as new now ;)
 

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#3 ·
Did I mention I'm totally crazy?

The first pic on my first post is what I saw on craigslist... It actually had body damage all over. Every door, fender, hood, roof, trunk, fuXK!!! Well 10 days later look at how lovely I made it, haha. Believe it or not that 's what a car looks like before you paint it. Yup, one this screwed up at least. It was blue, so I picked 2 blue choices and let my facebook friends vote, we all decided on Cobalt ;) I mean have you ever seen a cobalt blue metallic W140 Benzo before? Nope :)

I am finishing up the grille you see below ($48 invested) and I went ahead and blacked out the tail lights for $12 ;)

I haven't yet reassembled it yet, so gonna have to wait on those pics. The rear is just a teaser. I'm also hoping to tint the windows and get some new rims for $500 or so.

But the next post is where I need everyone's help. Please read on.
 

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#4 ·
Did I mewntion it knocks?

Knock,knock, knock!!! Loud enough you can hear it with the windows up! Can't be oilers, did them already. Sound seems to come from bottom rear, near torque coonverter and flexplate. Went ahead and swapped converter and checked everything else in there. All good.

Can't be air return solenoid, to low. Could be bad motor mounts? One seems to be leaking it's fluid, but engine seems pretty secure... Catyltic converters seem dead quiet, although V6 is written on them in white marker, hmmmm.

Oil pressure is three when driving, one at idle with 20w50 as Merc recommends. I even do have, shhhh, lucas oil treatment in there. Nothing quieted it down yet.

I am really looking for suggestions, anyone? Anything? Honestly I'm gonna be doing exhaust soon and probably will drown it out. I will drive it knocking if I have too. I've redlined it twice with no issues, no smoke or leaks otherwise. No codes anymore either ;)

Thanks for reading everyone!
 

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#13 ·
Knock,knock, knock!!! Loud enough you can hear it with the windows up! Can't be oilers, did them already. Sound seems to come from bottom rear, near torque coonverter and flexplate. Went ahead and swapped converter and checked everything else in there. All good.

Can't be air return solenoid, to low. Could be bad motor mounts? One seems to be leaking it's fluid, but engine seems pretty secure... Catyltic converters seem dead quiet, although V6 is written on them in white marker, hmmmm.

Oil pressure is three when driving, one at idle with 20w50 as Merc recommends. I even do have, shhhh, lucas oil treatment in there. Nothing quieted it down yet.

I am really looking for suggestions, anyone? Anything? Honestly I'm gonna be doing exhaust soon and probably will drown it out. I will drive it knocking if I have too. I've redlined it twice with no issues, no smoke or leaks otherwise. No codes anymore either ;)

Thanks for reading everyone!
That oil's too thick. Just my humble opinion....
 
#5 ·
Not to be a kill joy at this time of the year but it could have one of two bad areas. First if the oil tubes were blown then the lifters were not getting lubrication. Check for a collapsed lifter. Second, more serious of a tapping noise is piston slap. BTDT.

Good luck on you find.

Merry Christmas
 
#7 ·
As one of the moderators, welcome aboard !! Paint and transmission work is black magic for most everyone. Thank you for sharing your work. If you can get to the blow by blow process of your paint process, most everyone will be intrigued how to refinish a car. I used to paint, but I have only done bumpers for now, yet I do tranny work to the core, and a handful her have rebuilt transmissions.

Welcome aboard, great project. 93 V8 have metal oilers, so on your next find to the junk yard pull some out.

Row52 | PICK-n-PULL Antelope Mercedes-Benz

https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locations/

Martin
 
#9 ·
Thanks for the positive responses!

I often time do odd little things and people don't dig my style. I'm glad to hear some positivity. My Dad has had 8 of these all running until sold at 225-260k. He know has a 2010 black S550 for my MOm and and he drives a white 2 door S550 coupe hardtop.

I will do a lengthy write up on the painting process later this week, holidays and all. Plus I'm sure seeing the final project will be a big surprise!

I was thinking the bucket tappet lifters, but I swear the valve covers are dead quiet with my ear touching them. I will check them in a week or so. It really is metallic tap, tap, tap knock noise. LIke what a chevy v8 lifter would sound like. Laying under car is loudest and right in front of torque converter is place I swear it's coming from. Oh and pulling the trans was not fun at all, sucker is heavy by yourself! But she shifts smooth as new now ;) Will try and post a vid of noise.
 
#12 ·
I often time do odd little things and people don't dig my style. I'm glad to hear some positivity. My Dad has had 8 of these all running until sold at 225-260k. He know has a 2010 black S550 for my MOm and and he drives a white 2 door S550 coupe hardtop.

I will do a lengthy write up on the painting process later this week, holidays and all. Plus I'm sure seeing the final project will be a big surprise!

I was thinking the bucket tappet lifters, but I swear the valve covers are dead quiet with my ear touching them. I will check them in a week or so. It really is metallic tap, tap, tap knock noise. LIke what a chevy v8 lifter would sound like. Laying under car is loudest and right in front of torque converter is place I swear it's coming from. Oh and pulling the trans was not fun at all, sucker is heavy by yourself! But she shifts smooth as new now ;) Will try and post a vid of noise.
I'm all ears, and so is Joe. Do a paint later in time. No need to do it now we all volontier, and your style is different. That is okay. I'm not a purest with these cars.

I guarantee you will get a pile of questions. It is the people here that make this forum great, so the more you share the better, but some things may be too much as painting is a art. I got pile questions when I did my bumpers. Here is what I did nine or so years ago..

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/1381352-front-bumper-broken.html

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/2401513-bumpers-clearcoated.html

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/2159273-clear-coat-failing.html

Ahhh, update your profile, so we know what you drive, the year, and where you live. I cannot remember everyone..

If you want all the info on these trannies, here is some data:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/2544649-new-revised-722-6-service-manual.html

I will play ur videos tomorrow, and see what i come up with..

Their are some very smart people here, so I am pretty sure we will find this noise

All the best,

Martin
 
#16 ·
Good Deal

I'm glad that oil worked for you. More viscosity and thicker oil will help me, not hurt me. I just want the knock to go away, but feel it's either connecting rod bearings or mains... Will be checking lifters (bucket tappets) when I can.

Still looking for help with the knock. I can't wait for everyone to see it all painted, me too! Home Saturday finally.
 
#18 ·
After doing extensive work on my 99 s500 engine I still had two ticks. One was diffinately a metat to metal noise. Sound carried all over engine, under oil pan, both heads, under intake manifold. Pulled oil pan and check connecting rod bearing. Mic journals, put in new bearings. Noise still there. Finally pulled heads. No. 2 piston rocking in the bore. Replaced piston, rings, honed with Suntax honing compound and now quiet. Now have a slight tick which goes away after startup.
 
#19 ·
Wow! I bow to you, you really found that sucker. I am fearful it's something that bad. Buying a car with no water I figured it had been overheated plenty... Originally I was going to swap the engine with an LS. I am more or less just playing with the car now. Total invested I'm at $1200 after paint, probably $2k with cool wheels and tint.

Question is, how long will it last if it's something as bad as your loose piston? You saw the video proof it can still hit redline, seemed a little week at lower rev's, but my Dad mostly only ever had 500's like yours.

Thank you for the response, did my video's sound resemble yours?
 
#22 ·
most motor made in the 1980s used multigrade oils to reduce friction,giving better fuel mileage.The bores for oil flow were made smaller so oils could pump at high pressure.Main bearings to have these little holes.Its not like the days of the 1970s were folk used strait 30 weight or 40 weight racing oil,those bearings had larger holes.
 
#27 ·
Many THANKS!!!

This is perfect, much quieter than mine. I also watched your belt tensioner, its smooth. Mine hops in time with noise. I will try running with no belts, even though the sound doesn't sound like it's coming from there. Never know. I did try and pull it to inspect, couldn't get back bolt out, it hit the friggin pulley :/
 
#28 ·
Did some testing nothing new...

I tried the following with no change.

1. Removed belt
2. Lifted engine with motor mounts still attached
3. Ran Seafoam through crank case and fuel

Maybe it's quieter, but same otherwise. Gonna look in valve covers again soon. Mostly look at all lifters.

NEW VID!!! This time video keeps time with audio. You can here all kinds of noises as I move camera around. Normal fuel injectors, valve noise and finally that metal click from underneath.



Attached pic is of the grille finally done. $7 for mesh t Home Depot and $41 for logo. Yes, they are that cheap!!! lol Probably have 3-4 hours in grille. I am happy with final product.
 

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#30 ·
Fixed!!!

Once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth.

Cam oilers, Cam oilers, Cam oilers!!! So I pulled the Valve covers and found a total of 5 more bad cam oiler tubes. Follow me here, first time I had 4. First start made the terrible knocking noise. Fixed 5 on Monday and noise was gone. That means the very first time I started it after fixing 4 caps and replacing O-rings with new 5 more blew!!! Like instantaneously! THIS IS BEFORE I PUT IN THICK OIL OR OIL TREATMENT. lol 3 on passenger side I used from the junk yard. Next 2 I melted caps as I believe all caps will eventually blow and some day will melt all of them if it proves working. Yes, I simply melted the plastic ends. I read that the plastic flow better than the metal and are less likely to clog. I also have only paid for the seals $30, total investment. First pic shows what I found. Must be some reason the same 4 tubes blew on both sides. After swapping the first to lifters b/c they were squishy I didn't replace other side surmising they just needed to be re-filled with oil. I was right. Anyone need 9 lifters? haha

Second project of the day was fixing duo or dual valve. See attached photo of old after cleaning. Half rubber seals were gone, plungers had broken off, valve's were rusted stuck, etc. Went to junk yard and got all you see in attached pic for $5.50!!! You pay a dollar to get in, so the rest was freeeeeeee:grin T

Total spent on fixes

Engine Knocking: $30 for new seals
Engine shaking terribly: $1 for 2 picked ignition coils
Fixed Lower Rad Hose: Free, cut it down
Fixed stuck T-stat: $11 Ebay
Fixed Duo valve: $5.50 Pic
Fixed Fan Motor on low: $7 resistor on ebay
Fixed Trans: $125 Plate and fluid
Fixed Trans Leak from Shift brake interlock: $1 picked plug and disabled it
Fixed bad Power steering leak: $16 new seals eBay
Fixed Door Assist: Free, adjusted

Total: $196, yup all fixed for less than $200:devil

Paint was $130 and $75 in supplies

More to come, HID's, marker lights, stereo, subs, wheels, tint, etc, etc (Not so cheap):crying
 

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#31 ·
Fixed!!!

Once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth.

Cam oilers, Cam oilers, Cam oilers!!! So I pulled the Valve covers and found a total of 5 more bad cam oiler tubes. Follow me here, first time I had 4. First start made the terrible knocking noise. Fixed 5 on Monday and noise was gone. That means the very first time I started it after fixing 4 caps and replacing O-rings with new 5 more blew!!! Like instantaneously! THIS IS BEFORE I PUT IN THICK OIL OR OIL TREATMENT. lol 3 on passenger side I used from the junk yard. Next 2 I melted caps as I believe all caps will eventually blow and some day will melt all of them if it proves working. Yes, I simply melted the plastic ends. I read that the plastic flow better than the metal and are less likely to clog. I also have only paid for the seals $30, total investment. First pic shows what I found. Must be some reason the same 4 tubes blew on both sides. After swapping the first to lifters b/c they were squishy I didn't replace other side surmising they just needed to be re-filled with oil. I was right. Anyone need 9 lifters? haha

Second project of the day was fixing duo or dual valve. See attached photo of old after cleaning. Half rubber seals were gone, plungers had broken off, valve's were rusted stuck, etc. Went to junk yard and got all you see in attached pic for $5.50!!! You pay a dollar to get in, so the rest was freeeeeeee:grin Tub of water is what drained out of heater core after I shop vac'd it out. It was so much worse! Heat works now :angel

Total spent on fixes

Engine Knocking: $30 for new seals
Engine shaking terribly: $1 for 2 picked ignition coils
Fixed Lower Rad Hose: Free, cut it down
Fixed stuck T-stat: $11 Ebay
Fixed Duo valve: $5.50 Pic
Fixed Fan Motor on low: $7 resistor on ebay
Fixed Trans: $125 Plate and fluid
Fixed Trans Leak from Shift brake interlock: $1 picked plug and disabled it
Fixed bad Power steering leak: $16 new seals eBay
Fixed Door Assist: Free, adjusted

Total: $196, yup all fixed for less than $200:devil

Paint was $130 and $75 in supplies

More to come, HID's, marker lights, stereo, subs, wheels, tint, etc, etc (Not so cheap):crying
 
#33 ·
Pic's didn't post. Were in preview...

Hopefully pic's attached this time.


Once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth.

Cam oilers, Cam oilers, Cam oilers!!! So I pulled the Valve covers and found a total of 5 more bad cam oiler tubes. Follow me here, first time I had 4. First start made the terrible knocking noise. Fixed 5 on Monday and noise was gone. That means the very first time I started it after fixing 4 caps and replacing O-rings with new 5 more blew!!! Like instantaneously! THIS IS BEFORE I PUT IN THICK OIL OR OIL TREATMENT. lol 3 on passenger side I used from the junk yard. Next 2 I melted caps as I believe all caps will eventually blow and some day will melt all of them if it proves working. Yes, I simply melted the plastic ends. I read that the plastic flow better than the metal and are less likely to clog. I also have only paid for the seals $30, total investment. First pic shows what I found. Must be some reason the same 4 tubes blew on both sides. After swapping the first to lifters b/c they were squishy I didn't replace other side surmising they just needed to be re-filled with oil. I was right. Anyone need 9 lifters? haha

Second project of the day was fixing duo or dual valve. See attached photo of old after cleaning. Half rubber seals were gone, plungers had broken off, valve's were rusted stuck, etc. Went to junk yard and got all you see in attached pic for $5.50!!! You pay a dollar to get in, so the rest was freeeeeeee:grin Tub of water is what drained out of heater core after I shop vac'd it out. It was so much worse! Heat works now :angel

Total spent on fixes

Engine Knocking: $30 for new seals
Engine shaking terribly: $1 for 2 picked ignition coils
Fixed Lower Rad Hose: Free, cut it down
Fixed stuck T-stat: $11 Ebay
Fixed Duo valve: $5.50 Pic
Fixed Fan Motor on low: $7 resistor on ebay
Fixed Trans: $125 Plate and fluid
Fixed Trans Leak from Shift brake interlock: $1 picked plug and disabled it
Fixed bad Power steering leak: $16 new seals eBay
Fixed Door Assist: Free, adjusted

Total: $196, yup all fixed for less than $200:devil

Paint was $130 and $75 in supplies

More to come, HID's, marker lights, stereo, subs, wheels, tint, etc, etc (Not so cheap):crying
 

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#34 ·
How I painted such a giant car

This car is big, BIG!!! I have never seen a worse taken care of car in my life. Every corner, door, roof, trunk, hood etc had dents and dings galore!!! It had been smashed in both drivers front and rear wheel wells. So far the rear is pushed in 1 inch at least. So much big tires rub on metal. I will briefly outline what it took to get it ready for paint.

First sand paint down around any damaged area, 80-120 gritt. You then put bondo directly on bare steal, it does not stick to self etching primer. This car I had learned to apply bondo thick enough to do it once and shape it with block sanding, avail on ebay. Shape with 80-120 gritt and finish with 220ish. I call it one and done.

Once body is straight you must fill bondo holes. Glazing or spot putty, red stuff in photo, is used to fill pinholes and make for a nice paint job. This stuff sets in minutes and sands super easy with 220 gritt.

Once body is straight and no holes primer it. Hit any bare metal with self etching primer so it doesn't rust and rest of body you worked on with filler primer. This is to fill the big scratches from the earlier sanding. This stuff you lightly sand with 220 then finish with 320-400.

Right before painting you must scuff up the entire body. They sell 400-600 gritt scuff pads by the box. After scuffing you wash car. I wipe down with alcohol and then use wax and grease remover to leave a perfectly clean surface for paint to stick too.

Masking is probably the most important step!!! Slopping masking and door handles will look bad, will have to clean glass, etc. Get the good orange or green no residue tape, the blue I use isn't the best:frown

I cheaped out this time and did single stage paint. After I bought the paint I found out that no one, not even the best painters, can shoot single stage metallics perfectly. Oh well, I did the best I could.

All paint you first shoot a light stick coat for paint to adhere too. Then a good cover coat with 90% coverage and finally a full smooth "wet" coat to be shiny. Difference with proper metallic job is base coat then clear coat. Base does not have a final wet coat, just full coverage but dull looking. Then paint clear, one sticky and 1-2 wet coats to be shiny but not have much orange peel. I recommend 1 if no wet sanding and more if you plan on getting that mirror shine. My last car took 3 months to wet sand so I'm never doing that again...

I also included some close up shots of body modifications I did. Go out and look at your big body. See those ugly seems under rear tail lights? Yup, they were there :wink Have you ever used headlight washers? Are they ever even? GONE:devil Finally I filled the license plate holes after removing the holder. While my paint didn't turn out the greatest doing single stage metallic my body work is on point!!!

I welcome any questions and I have much, much more to come!!!

I've already done tint, rims and stereo!!! Done on the cheap, but trippled the cost of car :eek
 

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#35 ·
My first paint job

Please no comments on the car itself if negative, I will ignore you.

This is a true three stage or tri-coat paint job. Base red, 2 red sparkle in clear coats and 4 coats of clear I wet sanded glass smooth.

Last two pic's are how car started out. Yes, it's a 1991 Ford Taurus. Now it's THE TAMARO!!!:devil

Wait till end for sparkle!!



Full Vid of Car

 

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