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20,000 Mile Ownership Report

543 views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  samosali 
#1 ·
I was shuffling through my records today, and noticed I passed the 20,000 mile mark recently. So I thought it'd be fun to take a look back at everything that I've done so far, repairs, experiences, and such.

The basics:
1995 S600 sedan, black/gray
110,800 miles

By the numbers:

17 months owned
21,900 miles driven
14 passes on the 1/4 mile
-13.988s @100mph best
3 autocross events
6 tires purchased
-2 more soon!
5 round trips from Louisiana to Illinois (650 miles each way)
360 rear wheel horsepower
3 times stopped for speeding
-0 tickets on record

100+ times asked if it was a V12!

The part replacement was mostly relegated to early in my ownership. By the time I'd put 10,000 miles on it, 90% of this was done. The past 5,000 or so miles have seen almost zero expenditure here. In total I've replaced....many parts. Generally from most recent:

Amplifier
Tail light bulb x 4
Ignition coil
Radiator, hoses
Body acceleration sensor
Clutch fan
Lots 'o' fuses and relays!
Dashboard lights
Climate control deck
Steering angle sensor
Tow hook cover
Door lock rod
Accumulators
Brake pads/sensors
Power steering reservoir+hoses
Camshaft Adjuster Magnet
Duo valve
Taillight lenses
MAF (or two or three)
Mirrors/wiring
Turn signal housings
O-rings in hydraulic suspension
Headrest tracks
Battery
Alternator
Radio head unit

I'm sure there are more I don't remember. What I was most surprised by in this process was that most of the parts weren't unobtainium expensive. I didn't notice a huge cost difference between what I paid for these and what I'd paid for Lexus and Nissan parts in similar-era cars. Overall cost so far has been pretty high, sure - somewhere in the realm of $5-6000 of parts & labor for what I was unwilling to do myself - but it's not far beyond the amount I'd done on other cars considering over-time. Most of it felt deferred too, I'm expecting (and have already experienced) a drop in the amount of money spent as time has passed. Moreover, unlike other cars of this vintage I've owned, I don't expect it to break when I go on long trips or drive daily, which is a boon for utility.

The most unexpected surprise for this old boat has been the sophistication and durability of its design. It's shockingly competent on a race track. Granted, your overall limit of grip is lower than most and the default understeer is monolithic. But the competence shines through when you're at the limit of grip. You can easily negotiate the slip angle and direct it through a slide in ways that make Miatas stare longingly. Weight transitions, while long, are smooth and aren't upsetting to balance. But the best feature of the setup is for drag racing. The chassis has so much grip set on the back tires that, despite all of that torque bursting at the back wheels, you don't spin the tires in a straight line. And that's on all-season tires. I can imagine it taking on upwards of 550 on stock size tires without breaking out.

The most disappointing thing for me, recently, has been the active suspension. When I repaired it, I could tell the difference like night and day. Perhaps since I had been stuck on sport mode my entire ownership previously. But after about 6,000 miles with it fixed, I have become so used to it that I really can't tell anymore when I switch it, which is kind of sad - it's like chasing a high, I would guess.

Anyways, this is getting quite long so I'll stop here. Comments, thoughts, ask anything.
 
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#2 ·
i am not sure if i understand you well about suspension. So I have classic 4 coil springs and "ordinary" shocks. Do I miss something? I have never drove a car with air-assist suspension or something similar. So is my w140 a sort of "less-worth" w140 or is it only about small differences in comparison to those with more sophisticated suspension (SDS if i recall correctly)?
 
#3 ·
Samosali, I lived in Italy for a couple of years. I had always been a Volvo owner and I decided to price out a new Volvo. I was surprised to find that (in 1998) they came with roll up windows and many of the other features that are standard on a new car in the USA. Sounds like the same with you car. My '97 CL600 has SLS (self leveling) rear suspension, ADS (automatic damping system), and ESP (electronic stability program). What is doesn't have are shock absorbers but hydraulic struts in the rear and electric struts in the front with accelerometers and a steering wheel position sensor. Very complicated systems driven by computers. This is my second car so equipped. Out side of normal maintenance, I have had no trouble whatsoever. Gratia a Dios because those parts are NOT cheap.
Anziani
 
#5 ·
Samosali,

As Anziani mentioned, there were a couple of 'upgraded' suspension options on the W140.

The first notch up from 'standard' suspension was "SLS" (Self-Leveling Suspension). This variation had only rear suspension different from 'standard'. In the rear, the standard shocks were replaced with hydro-pneumatic shocks that had same form/fit as 'standard' shock, but SLS shock has hydraulic line connection to tandem pump mounted on engine. The tandem pump is two pumps paired like Siamese twins; one to power steering & the other to SLS. Pump puts out 350psi or more pressure the SLS system and leveling valve at rear swaybar moderates flow from SLS pump between return to reservoir & pumping up SLS shocks to level car. So when SLS car is filled up with people & luggage, the system pumps the rear up to the same level as without the extra loading.

The SLS suspension had 'standard' type shocks in the front.

The SLS system allows the drive axles to be set to ~1/4 the angle off horizontal as the 'standard' suspension because the standard suspension must be set higher to compensate for extra loading.

The SLS springs are softer than 'standard' setup because the SLS shocks themselves add some hundreds of pounds lift to each side.

The horizontal drive axles make for smoother running in the rear drive.

The softer damping of the SLS system makes for a very soft ride, but the heavy-duty rear sway bar keeps body roll very low for the very large W140.

The next notch up from SLS was ADS.

ADS has SLS setup in the back with another addition with is electronically controlled valving that has four damping settings that are changed 'on the fly' by computer in response to driving conditions. Response time is in the milliseconds. The ADS valving module is external to the shock in the rear. Rear shock is the same as the SLS shock.

Front suspension setup on ADS has ADS shocks that are like standard shocks with the electronically controlled valving integrated on to the side of the shock.

With the ADS system, you have all the comfort benefits of SLS plus the benefit of "Active Damping" that that contantly responds to driving style/conditions.

These options allowed greater comfort & handling at the expense of higher purchase & maintenance costs.
 
#6 ·
Thanks Daidnik for this clarification. I guess i could read all this information in Wikipedia or so, but i wanted to hear something from practice from you guys. still ... in practice ... how huge in terms of "good feeling in the car" is a difference between standard suspension and ADS?
 
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