Thank You for taking the time to share it!!!

I like that....

Saved in links...

Martin

 

so damn good

 

Love it. Very nicely done.

 

Thanks for responses. I'm just happy i don't have to cringe anymore when going over sharp bumps.

 

I just ordered in a pair of that Lemforder part number to do the same job.

 

NZ Jay,

For the upper mounts did you order the MB mounts at about $100 ea or did you do something different?

 

Yeah i used those crazy priced MB ones but it was worth it just to put an end the thud, i just couldn't bring myself to use the car anymore without fixing them.

 

I hear you and totally understand. The irony that gripes me is that the front 'standard' shocks use that same 'pod' approach and you buy the shock with the mount for about $90 ea. What's up with that?! I replaced the two rear SLS shocks with new because I got impatient after removing them and didn't wait to take them to work to use a torch on the upper mount and thought 'I'll just give it a try to see if it will loosen'. Well, I broke off one of the cast studs at the top. Painful lesson.

I applaud your ingenuity on that lower mount. Your fix is the best I've seen. When those mounts are good and the SLS system is working, it is the most incredibly comfortable suspension in that luxury monster of a car.

Don't change the springs to different lowering type or any of that. If you do, the SLS system will not work correctly and the damping will not be right. I've been thru that with buying a car that had H&R springs put in. Before I got everything right I think I had R&R'd the rear springs four times.

 

Yeah i saw your post on the subject, tis a good example over German over-engineering. It was alot of luck really considering how many different bushings are out there, im sure there's a perfect one which needs no modification, but till someone finds it and lets others know i think this is the best for now.

My top mounts came of easy with a little heat from LPG torch which was a relief. I have AMG suspension which includes springs and AMG self leveling shocks(which im certain are very rare) so i want to keep it as original.

Im very impressed by the cars handling on current setup now that ive done swaybars links\bushings, Bilstein front shocks, new accumulators and decent rubber. You feel the weight turning it in to a corner but its very stable and not alot of body roll for such a heavy car. The inflatable side bolsters are one of my favorite things on this car and actually useful. People ive taken for a ride are always impressed by handling and power of such a beast.
Id love to drive a std w140 on 16's to compare it handling wise as ive only ever experienced this W140, they are scarce here.

 

Forgot to mention im grateful i found yours and Jayware? posts on the subject, otherwise i may not of even bothered replacing them not knowing what i was dealing with.

 

So you've got ADS?

 

Nope no ADS just AMG version on the std SLS system. 18" Mono Blocks, what im guessing are stiffer springs\shocks and probably a little lower ride height.

 

Regarding the tires & rims, I'm running the OE 16" rims with 235/60-16 Mich Primacy tires that are H-rated. The only thing I've noted about the taller tires is that inflation pressure really needs to run about 36psi or peel of tire on rim makes for soft cornering. Gas door cites about 28psi, but that seems way too low as the cornering won't feel as positive.

Fortunately, the damping in the suspension has comfort factor that far exceeds almost any other vehicle even with the 36psi inflation.

 

Yeah i run ~36 psi all round on most cars ive owned and have always got good even wear. Fuel door on my NZ new S600 says 34 psi so must be a market thing.

 

I'm having a crack at this job tonight!

 

Done. I made the rubbers oversize by ~1mm and used Sikaflex (white) as lube to help squeeze them in and hold in place. Not quite as tidy as NZJays work but here is my effort:

 

Excellent Joe,

I need to do it to the Beater S500, and I bet they are bad bad on my 200k Mile car..

Martin

 

I had my SLS height set quite high so it pushes out on the bushes, it only made noise over the biggest ruts/bumps. Now that I've done this I'll lower it a touch.

BTW I did not swap my upper shock mounts, those metal spheres filled with solid rubber, it's all in the loose flogged out balljoint.

 

Sounds like the opposite of my situation. My lowers were ok (boots were split but not dry) but it was the upper mounts that were had it (you could move them in any direction with you hand).

While the thud from the boot is gone my rear end still feels quite harsh when going over sharp bumps, the front 2 rear subframe bushings appear to need replacing now. Driving with bad accumulators and mounts to some degree on the SLS setup probably increases the wear rate on subframe bushings, having 18" rims and AMG sport struts doesn't help the situation either.

 

Sounds like the opposite of my situation. My lowers were ok (boots were split but not dry) but it was the upper mounts that were had it (you could move them in any direction with you hand).

While the thud from the boot is gone my rear end still feels quite harsh when going over sharp bumps, the front 2 rear subframe bushings appear to need replacing now. Driving with bad accumulators and mounts to some degree on the SLS setup probably increases the wear rate on subframe bushings, having 18" rims and AMG sport struts doesn't help the situation either.

Hello I know I’m responding to an older posting but I’m just wondering if you ever ended up replacing the subframe bushings on the W140? And if so was there an immediate difference when you drove the car?

 

Yeah all my subframe bushes could do with replacing but I will leave for now.

 

So I've been thinking about this. The reason why rubber bushings weren't installed in the first place probably has to do with the nature of the hydraulic strut. If the strut were to leak, mineral oil will quickly deteriorate the rubber and you would have a tremendous problem on your hands. Replacing the steel heim joint with rubber could cause catastrophic failure and would be very dangerous. Furthermore, the tight tolerances in the hydraulic strut may not hold up to the forces transmitted from a flexible rubber joint.

From an engineering standpoint, this "fix" may get you by, but is of a lesser standard than originally designed.

 

this "fix" may get you by, but is of a lesser standard than originally designed"

Valid conjecture. BUT,did anyone ever say that retrofitting the BMW bushing into the MB shock was meant to meet factory standards?

Let's face it. New SLS shock is $500. If the old one is NOT leaking and only bushing is gone, then, you have two options:
1. Replace the SLS shock altogether
2. Replace the bushing only

Option 1 is $500, option 2 is $30. When/if the SLS shock begins to leak, then, there are no other options but #1.

Good luck,
Steve

PS Oil doesn't "dissolve" rubber instantaneously, so the perceived danger from oil leak is slightly exaggerated, one could argue. There will be telltale signs that the rear suspension needs attention...

 

Valid conjecture. BUT,did anyone ever say that retrofitting the BMW bushing into the MB shock was meant to meet factory standards?

Let's face it. New SLS shock is $500. If the old one is NOT leaking and only bushing is gone, then, you have two options:
1. Replace the SLS shock altogether
2. Replace the bushing only

Option 1 is $500, option 2 is $30. When/if the SLS shock begins to leak, then, there are no other options but #1.

Good luck,
Steve

PS Oil doesn't "dissolve" rubber instantaneously, so the perceived danger from oil leak is slightly exaggerated, one could argue. There will be telltale signs that the rear suspension needs attention...

Mostly I considered this other point of view to step inside why they chose the heim joint in the first place.

I'll need to really get under there and check things out. My car has 4 wheel ADS so I'm looking at the same cost for the front two shocks as well so ~$2200 for shocks... This is a tempting mod especially to just get you buy, I can always end up going with new shocks if this doesn't work out. I have quite a few other things to address so I hope you can understand my limbo and predicament.

 

I have done mine by using a smaller bushing and cutting the edges, adding a washer to mkae the difference and then using the strut housing to close one end.

What you did seems to be very good but it appears it might slip out. I am not sure how you can close the end. I don't think a big enough washer on the end would hold...

From my experience, you need to find a median- between using a large enough bushing but thin enough you can close the strut end.

Perhaps showing some pics of my fix might help understand what I'm trying to say. It has been holding fine so far but I don't drive this car much anymore.

 

Steve well summed up nicely as to the why. Plenty of people\mechanics\technicians etc have done the same thing, documented or not, i just got lucky and found a bush that worked well and let others know.

As for the bushing slipping out - i don't see how is that possible when its a tight fit between the 2 metal tabs on the spring perch with a bolt going through it. Being rubber and having to cut it down means you can get as tight of a fit as you want when pressing it into the shock. All other dimension were near identical so no need for cutting, washers etc which was my goal. I've done about 1000km since i installed them.

 

I would love an update on the long term success of the bushing only replacement!

 

If the boots around the bushings are shot, but the joints themselves are still good, clean everything off, and do this instead:
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur.../forums/showthread.php?t=3001553&share_tid=3001553&share_fid=13657&share_type=t