Steve, the link you posted on previous page where I commented about how to reset the Throttle Actuators is the correct procedure to do a complete Reset for those .
On your early SEC M120 ,it is exactly the same like on mine , I have done the Reset many times & every single time the engine revs up to about 1500/2000rpm's then slowly settles down back to normal 600rpm's or lower (550) .
Only if you for example swapped engines like I did ,then yes you would need to retune/reprogram the ECU's like engine management or what ever your car has in options added in regards to engine , the transmission like Samo already mentioned ,will relearn by it self with 30/40 transmission shifts ,so if you for example go slow ,the transmission will settle to a normal slow changing behavior but if you for example drive erratically ,then the transmission will adapt to that kind of driving & change faster .
You can experience this by letting the transmission shift by driving normal all day ,then the next day you feel that something is sleeping here ,so as you drive the car harder on that day ,the next day you will find that the car would drive much more like a sports car for example ,the gears shift quicker somehow , to feel the difference it doesn't take a day but more or less li9ke I mentioned 30/40 gear changes ,keep that in mind .
On mine when they changed the engine to one exactly the same M120 ,they still remapped the ECU to that engine & also had to change some electric things I don't know of ,they also changed the Throttle Actuators for some reason from the new engine, they used my original once , you didn't do that so no worries there .:thumbsup:
Thank you Chris. Two comments from me in response:
1. We are NOT talking about remapping/reprogramming the chipset. This is done by tuners to squeeze more of their engines (done in conjunction with boring throttles, adding boost, changing valves and/or cams, etc.)
All ECUs with the same part number will work for the applicable engines straight out of the box. Learning/adaption might be needed but the engine should start off the program stored in the ECU memory.
After a drive-cycle, feedback from the O2-sensors, CTS, etc. some 'trimming' will be applied and the baseline modified to a particular engine. This 'trim' should be lost if the power to the ECU is disrupted.
This is my basic understanding of engine management systems of this vintage.
I could be wrong as I have never owned a MB product (the 600SEC is my entry into this world), but I doubt BOSCH supplied them with something that did not exist in the early 1990s.
2. My transmission, and likely yours, is the old-school 722.362.
4-speed. No electronic control. I invite you to visit my thread here:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w14...hic-b3-piston-failure-tranny-rebuildable.html
I've had it apart in my basement over the winter. I can assure you (this is not me reading off the internet, this is me with hands-on experience) that this box CANNOT change its habits depending on how you drive.
There is no electronic input (well, the kick-down solenoid is electric, but it gets the signal from the switch on the pedal).
The shifts are vacuum regulated. The infamous Bowden cable is also responsible for how mild/aggressive the shifting is.
I will need to do these adjustments next, but first thing first -- start the engine.
In that regard -- your procedure calls for 90 seconds at WOT with the ignition on.
thisisntchris87 posted the same, or rather nearly same. According to him, the synchronization happens only with the key on.
Which one? WOT or closed throttle?
Many thanks,
Steve