Well, i was close to removing ETA and sending to be rewired...
Today i cut the loom to confirm wiring problem. Guess what?
All nice and not damaged... Hm this is puzzling. Why?
1. I had few problems when car did not want to go smooth through rpm. It was very random, but i saw it couple times
2. If i move the cable by hand from under the hood i'll get asr light. Is it normal? I do not have asr light in genedal, it wasn' my problelm.
Now i'm a bit stuck, the problems i'm trying to eliminate: light hesitation on hot engine, random unwilling to go high rpm (only hot engine for both).
I guess you misunderstood, i can move the loom as much as i want, all good nothing happens. I wasn't clear i guess.
If i move the accelerator pedal cable, from under the hood, where it attaches to the throttle mechanical mechanism, emulating pedal movement, then it triggers ASR. It may be normal, because pedal does not move, i guess there is potensiometer at the pedal? i'm not familiar with the way it is actually designed
I seems it has mecanical and electronic drive, right? So, i do no know what is the normal reaction on manual moving of this lever (pic)
Left bottom corner of the picture. On the engine, next to the firewall.
Well, then to square 1... Why it is slightly hesitating when hot? puzzled.
Spark plus, rotor caps, rotors, wires, vacuum tubes are new.
The only vacuum pipe i did not replace is on throttle body itself.
So i guess i could remove and clean mass air flow sensor (can it cause it?). Then remove clean throttle body, open verify contacts soldering, replace the hose. Anything else i should check look for?
Ah rubber connection hose between body and maf will be new too.
Well i tried it from the top, but without removing the mesh it is not easy to clean well. It isn't very dirty, but if i remove it i can clean through. The same with ETA, i guess.
Am i correct assuming that replacing vacuum ventilation hose is impossible with ETA in place, right?
Don't remove the mesh!!! You don't want to mess with the airflow that comes through the sensor!! I don't know if it's that important, but I wouldn't touch it! :eek
The MAF is made out of thin platinum wire. The MAF is without a doubt the most sensitive sensor on the car. You can read more about it here:
Yes, yes, i've been around the block only special cleaner aerosol, no touching the wire
But, cleaning from the bottom with the same spray is difficult. And i do not know how much dirt and build up is on inner surfaces of the ETA. Removing ETA seems to be royal pain though
It is, I've had to take it off myself. Plus There's a rubber gasket between it and the throttle body that can crack when disturbed. If there's a crack then it will effect the fuel-air calculations and cause issues.
So if you pull that MAF you're going to have to replace the gasket.
Yes Sir, already got gasket, rubber connection hose and ventilation hose.
What i wonder, if it may be a reason for this supid hot engine hesitation. If i wouln't do all electrical myself i'd sware if is random misfire, but i did. I've no clue what it is
Well i guess i'll go step by step. Hose gaskets, cleaning, then we'll see...
What is the calibrating prossidure for maf?
I also saw few posts about crank shaft position sensor giving headache on hot engine. It seems to be royal pain to replace too.
I do not know i'm lost. No good guesses for now
BTW, may it be fuel pump? I checked pumps last weekend, they are original 21 year old one is leaking slightly from electrical connector, strange isn't it? Anyway i'm ordering two Walbro pumps made in USA and Mahle filter, should be better then china made Bosch. Any experience with those?
They're easy to do, just make sure to get fuel line clamps and new crush washers, maybe even some PTFE tape. I had to use on the hose fittings because it wouldn't stop leaking...
MAF calibration can't be done without an SDS, but admittedly I'm not sure on the procedure.
Besides sensors you may want to look at the vacuum system for the engine. Maybe you have a leak in that?
this is copy+paste from thread published here in this forum. as far as i know no SDS needed for this procedure. Only follow the below instructions.
Concerned as to Electronic Throttle possibility needing a relearn?
Follow:
1. After putting all back together...
2. Start up and bring engine to operating temperature. > 80 deg C.
3. Turn off, now... easily turn CW to #2 key position without starting the engine!
4. NOW Listen....the Electronic Throttle Actuator will click,Hummm and finally after few minutes stop noises.WAIT
5. AFTER the noise ends, put your right hand on the ignition key and CONTINUE turning CW AND START THE ENGINE!
6. Now, drive the vehicle and operate in a variety of conditions for a minimum of thirty (30) minutes without turning off.. Please ensure to operate the vehicle at least once or twice over 65 MPH!
7. After thirty minutes, return to a location and park the car without turning the engine off.
8. ALLOW the engine to idle for a minimum fifteen minutes (15 minutes) . Make sure it idles for 15 or more minutes. After satisfying this criteria.... shut the engine down!
9. Congratulations... you have properly reconfigured thr Electronic Throttle Actuator.
Just FYI, fuel pumps by Walbro are excellent fit, I replaced both together with filter and fuel line. I'll post pictures of new setup tomorrow. Old stuff is shown below.
Unfortunatelly, it did not fix my idle, neither it was fixed by replacing neutral safety switch (gear selector).
Interesting that now problem shows up only at park or neutral, only hot engine. Any clues guys???
Throttle body and maf cleaning is still ahead, as wether permits.
Fuel pump replacement transformed full throttle torque went up. I don't think fuel filter was ever changed, it seems to be oem. Fuel pumps were functional but one was leaking fuel from lower blue contact.
If you are making the replacment, make sure you order rubber hangers for this assembly, two out of four fell apart in my hands during removal.
i transformed myself into one big ear (see my signature). now we are two who are expecting the answer, but i am very skeptical. Me too experience a big difference in idle in Gear/Park (Neutral).
...wait, what is this:
MAF calibration can't be done without an SDS, but admittedly I'm not sure on the procedure.
i answered you with calibration of ETA (see previous page). Now I am lost. It is first time for me to hear that MAF should (must) be calibrated. Sorry, let's clarify this first please. For instance, there is not such instruction in alldata.diy.
thanks. this is in agreement with what I "know".
so i hope it is clear that procedure which i suggested (copy + paste from this forum) is for ETA, not for MAF, sorry once again.
I would not put much on this prossidure... I appriciated, obiously, for you guys posting it! And i'll have it done after cleaning maf and throttle body. But see, it works fine on the same rpms, being on Drive... If it is maf, then howcome?
Throttle body is also questionable, what is the difference for it?
The big one is what device can cause slight hesitation, depending on the gear selector?
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