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New revised 722.6 service manual - get it while can

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59K views 56 replies 23 participants last post by  SilverGoth  
#1 · (Edited)
New revised 722.6 service manual - get it while you can

Okay ladies and gentlemen.

I found a revised 722.6 service manual and youtube videos.. The manual is excellent for anyone owning a car with a 722,6,yet one day conductor plate has to be replaced it will come in hand...:smile

Not sure how long the link will last, but download it now, and ask questions later ;)

http://www.all-trans.by/assets/site/files/mercedes/722.6.1.pdf

Here is the Chrysler NAG1(second version-722.6) service manual

http://n.bruant.free.fr/NAG1 document BVA.pdf

Want some theory on the 722.6 here it is. It is called NAG1 by Chrysler, but it has the same Benz parts(all of them).


Someone had A LOT of time on their hands to do this on Solid Works Mechanical design program, but it gives you an idea where everything goes :)


Like I said. Their are some youtubes on the rebuild process, and one guy made one with 8 parts- this one is a very sloppy.. Here are my observations, but the music may kill some of you :| It the kind of music you hear to calm you down at massage parlor, or acupuncture place :eek

Part 1


Part 2


Part 3


Part 4


Part 5


Part 6


Part 7


Part 8


Some of my comments:

His process' are scary, but the Sprag's are very smart, and he has in one of his videos he sells that pump plate-Very smart...

Now something super dumb in the videos is this Chrysler 722.6 videos it got opened, but he never shortened the end play gap on those frictions/clutches-that is the whole purpose to leave those with-in spec at 1mm to 2mm, and many of those had 5 to 8mm gap, and that amount of play leads to lethency in shift, or at worse "the shift going to neutral" All by just changing the snap-ring(they come in different thicknesses for this purpose), yet one video the camera panned to a wall, and he had some snap-rings hanging-how silly was it to do that-what was point of fixing that-this is BIG transmission 101 MISTAKE !!!!(see the service manual-it talks about the gap-the goal is to make it close to the minimum gap required)

All so, this transmission was in for the owner frying the several clutch packs because of "Jack Rabbit Starts" from a stop, butttttt if the guy knew about repairing transmissions(and not parts changing) the big B1 drum(closest to the bell housing) comes in different clutch capacities to accommodate MORE frictions for these "Jack Rabbit Starts"-I would have done that if I had this customer-one has made it this far to open just to fix that-very silly.....Ahh and is using a pry bar to separate the B1 from the bell housing-Big NO NO-One of the holes in the bell housing if one injects compressed air it will pop-free(the process is in the service manual-don't these people read? Sadly this other guy does the same too)

And not to change all those seals on the shafts(they were tan in color)-silly silly-those seals hold the pressure to all these clutch drums-no pressure-no shift-delay-nuetral

Andd the winner is the Teflon seal(about the size of a quarter) on the K2, that is the winner-you are there-replace it..One loses this seal, and mechanical destruction occurs, yet any other seal that goes bad will not cause destruction of the transmission.... Here is what that seal(white one ) looks like...

http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2311-bearing-seal-kit

This is super smart of him...The pump plate(AKA the bell housing gets damaged-neat solution-Sun Valley machines this flat on the bell housing)



Some better videos, and you will get the process for the 722.6, yet it is missing some things I like to do, but they are good...Part 3 is the valve body, and one has to be super clean and organized to do it. I rarely open them in half...

Part 1 of 3


Part 2


Part 3


Some others by the same guy:



Here are some Russian Rebuilds:


Valvebody-look at the screen filters near the end.


These should make everyone dangerous, but do download the service manual if you own a car with 722.6...

I got piles of pictures on the process too if you ever take a crack at rebuilding one of these.

Ahhh Joes rebuild

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/2212618-722-6-slip-shudder-d-r.html

all the best-enjoy

Martin :smile
 
#6 ·
Dan,

Excellent decision.. Thank you. Just trying to share the knowledge :wink

It is great table-top literature for all

Thank you,

Martin

Rupununipete said:
"These should make everyone dangerous"... Ahhhhhh ha ha ha ha... Very well done!

I must thank you just the same. I am sure this will come in handy some day soon. :)
Click to expand...
Pete,

Thank you very much. Information is very powerful, and is more powerful when you you share it with others-It just makes the world go better :smile

I have not read it yet, yet all I have done is quick skim of it...

Enjoy it,

Martin
 
#10 · (Edited)
Anziani,

Thank you for saying that, but the power is in all of us to succeed !!

My secret is out, and everyone here knows how it is done to solve this problem for good-forever(if one follows Joe's Thread, the answer is there)...

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/2212618-722-6-slip-shudder-d-r.html

Basically one uses a touch shift(With + & - on the shifter) rear wheel drive transmission from a W220 S500(for W140 S500/S420/S600), W215 S500, W208 CLK500, or a AMG...

In a nut shell, The transmission internals from one of the above cars is swapped into your old 722.6, and in the process the new internals are rebuilt with new front bearings, seals, frictions, sprag's, bonded piston, and new revised torque converter with the Sonnax updates made by CVC, and sold by "Whatever it takes Transmissions" :smile

http://cvcconverters.com/

http://cvcconverters.com/distributors.html

https://www.wittrans.com

That is the magic to this thing ....

I have not tested my theory on a S320 car, so I am not sure what the internals look like in the old 722.6..

Here is DIY on 98 E300 Diesel, and it has Four-Pinion planets, so who knows what a +97 M104 engine S320 will have ?

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w21...s/w210-e-class/2825938-722-6-sudden-major-leak-bell.html?highlight=jeremy+722+6

Martin
 
#15 ·
Here is the deal, 96 & 97(which are 95 & 96 722.6's) were the "Iffy" years for compatibility on all 722.6's, and design. I have heard if one sticks one of those into the later-year cars the car may not shift or a few gears work. The core of the problem is in the valve body, and maybe the software in the TCM, but you are screwed if the main case is plumbed different for the oil or-faces where it mates to the valve body.

My opinion, I would never stick a 90's transmission back in a 90's car. I would always fix that DAM K2 sleeve bearing problem with with the roller bearing, and the way to do that is to get that is to get the internals of a Touch-Shift car. You can always add more frictions, and use thinner steels for more gripping power...like a V12 tranny...

Martin
 
#16 ·
Sorry martin, You are stuck with me and my '97 CL600. My age and lack of dexterity are creeping over me. On the other hand, I have never had a transmission problem in any of the Benzes I've owned. Although my '97 CL500 that I sold last had a very shiny, new looking transmission case. The car had 150K on it but the PO "knew nothing".
Just keep me in the loop when you move.:bowdown:
Anziani
 
#20 ·
Thanks Martin,
I read some of the Chrysler manual and have two questions.
Page 617 it says to warm up the trans before doing a fluid and filter change.
I wonder why,when the car would have been warm before and then the fluid drips down over time,so why not do it when cold?
Also it says at the end to add 7.0l,,this would be too much fluid in many cases.
Is it not better to measure what is drained,replace the same amount,then measure with the dipstick?
 
#21 · (Edited)
Joe,

Thank you kindly. I hope you downloaded the manuals, and watched the YouTubes

Martin


Benzyle said:
Thanks Martin,
I read some of the Chrysler manual and have two questions.
Page 617 it says to warm up the trans before doing a fluid and filter change.
I wonder why,when the car would have been warm before and then the fluid drips down over time,so why not do it when cold?
Also it says at the end to add 7.0l,,this would be too much fluid in many cases.
Is it not better to measure what is drained,replace the same amount,then measure with the dipstick?
Click to expand...
I would figure it drains better(which it does) when hot, yet do not burn your self...Wear gloves..

The 7 liters is a typo-error

Always measure with a dipstick as some gets trapped in passages, and per all transmissions most (if not all) manufactures want you to have a certain amount of fluid per a given temperature(engine running)...I never measure what comes out, and I would advise no-one to do that!!!

Martin
 
#22 ·
Okay everyone,

This thread is living. I have someone hosting my files, yet it may be slow at times, or not work on occasion, but they will always be there. It has All my 722.6 documents and pictures will be on this home server.

It will house everything I have on transmissions from 722.3 through 722.9

Here is the link...

http://redirect.viglink.com/?format...ansmission pictures&txt=http://asavage.dyndns.org/MB/MAVA/Transmission%20Stuff/

Enjoy everyone...

I will add to it as time goes by...

Martin
 
#24 · (Edited)
You Are welcome.

The 2nd link, just go to crossfire forums download the 2004, or 2005 the whole service manual, and look at the transmission section. On the 2004 manual the tranny troubleshooting is not identical, but similar, and helpful and that starts on page 2403. The Rebuild section starts on page 2580.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/tsbs-how-articles/13875-crossfire-documentation-collection.html

The link on post 22. Like I said it comes and goes. Give it a couple of days to a few weeks. It is hosted by a friend, so I have no control.

martin
 
#26 ·
I would not use a early W220 as it may be a Hybrid transmission with older parts a still there. Pick a few years later. I have S430 2003 W220 in my 98(97 build W140). It has a smaller basket for B3 than the 500/600's, but the gearing is fine, and I drive like grandma.

You could be having a leak on the solenoid seal for the Torque Converter as that seal is the one that gets brittle hard, and breaks. It causes to weird problems...

Martin
 
#27 · (Edited)
I would not use an early W220 as it may be a Hybrid transmission with older parts a still there. Pick a few years later. I have S430 2003 W220 in my 98 S500(97 build W140). It has a smaller basket for B3 than the 500/600's, but the gearing is fine, and I drive like grandma, so the size of the basket does not matter for me as I'm not a lead-foot driver.

You could be having a leak on the solenoid seal for the Torque Converter as that seal is the one that gets brittle hard, and breaks. It causes some weird problems...

Martin
 
#29 ·
Yes, but the interlock to the shifter will not be connected to the W220/W215 at the back because the W220/W215 do not lock the shifter through a cable connected to the transmission. The W220/W215 locks the shifter with a relay on the shifter.

Your shifter will never be locked..

The proper way is to swap the internals from the W220/W215, and Install it on the W140 M119 722.6 case with the rear interlock...

Some one did do that, and it did work, but the shifter was never locked when the car was turn-off if you are okay with that it does work..

Martin
 
#32 ·
Oh yea, late 97/98/99 cars will benifit from the revised +2000 valvebodies..

My 98 has a 2003 valve body..

carguy1 said:
Sorry MAVA,

Forgot to ask.... What about torque converter? Use the one from my car/rebuilt or the one from w220?
Click to expand...

officially you want to put a new or rebuilt for the W140 as it contains frictions. I have a CVC brand unit which is sold by Whateveritakes transmission (I believe it is Wittrans.com). I paid around $200 with a core deposit, but they maybe more now..

Whey you do this... Open up a new thread, so we do not clog this thread up...

Martin
 
#33 · (Edited)
Rebuild threads

Some rebuild threads:

Early vintage ones:

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1574684-advice-722-6-trans-removed-diy.html

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/1691375-no-transmission-fluid-symptoms.html

The Very FIRST W140 722.6 to W220 722.6 conversion-Starts on post 16

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/1710387-w140-transmission-problems.html

Some recent ones:


https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/1934442-new-s600-722-6-problem.html

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/2212618-722-6-slip-shudder-d-r.html

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/2825938-722-6-sudden-major-leak-bell.html

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/2986503-early-722-6-rebuild-updated-parts.html

E55 AMG rebuild-Take a look

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/409907-e55-722-643-transmission-rebuild-pics.html

The latest is a Korean car manufacture has stuck a 722.6 in their vehicles, and here is the service manual to the car which includes 722.6 service manual section

https://www.manualslib.com/download/1101884/Ssangyong-2004-Rexton-2-7xdi.html
 
#34 · (Edited)
Tools for the rebuild

Tools for the rebuild :

The tools required are kinda basic tools, and it is a TOTAL FALLACY that they are EXPENSIVE to do the job, yet what is needed is some weird tools that are not very expensive.

I do suggest on buying some of the specialized ones as it will make life much easier by hours it will save.

1) The basics of metric six-point 3/8" drive sockets with some long and short extensions. Some 1/4" drive sockets with long extension. Torx socket bits. Oh those flat screw drivers-The technician type are better over the mechanic's type. One would think you need a snap-ring set. The only real part that uses a snap-ring tool is the rear bearing. The snap-ring retains the bearing, and is not necessary to remove it :wink. Pry bars-small and large.

2) Torque wrenches are required !! We cannot fly with "good n tight" approach, but one can use the cheapy Harbor Freight ones available here in the USA:

1/4" Drive

https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-61277.html

3/8" Drive

https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-61276.html

Torque wrench conversion chart - super handy to have is below

3) Pick set.

I would get two as they are cheap:

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html

Or get one jumbo set?

https://www.harborfreight.com/pick-and-hook-set-7-pc-69592.html

4) Feeler gauge-large bladed style not those little ones, or the spark plug wire type

https://www.harborfreight.com/feeler-gauge-32-pc-63665.html

5) Metric Vernier caliper-get a metal one as the plastic ones are changing in size as you are working with them. The Harbor Freight one is good for this work.

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-Digital-Caliper-61585.html

A good Japanese one maybe $50 bucks

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...80057.m570.l1311.R1.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xvernier.TRS0&_nkw=vernier+caliper&_sacat=0

NOW, If it has depth plunger rod on the back-end of a vernier, and the vernier is 250mm to 300mm then a separate depth vernier is not needed. Then something like this will work:

http://www.meba.net/wp-content/uplo.../05/New-2014-SHAHE-300mm-Waterproof-Stainless-Steel-Digital-Vernier-Caliper.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BEST-Digit...epid=5017253168&hash=item3d667ead8c:g:RagAAOSwTFhbB~To:rk:7:pf:1&frcectupt=true

I use something like this for my depth measurements:

http://assets.pretooling.com.au/products/618/images/vernier-depth-gauges-717.jpg


6) For all trannies you need some assembly lube. I use the blue stuff. This NOT grease, or wheel bearing grease. The grease everyone is used too is to lubricate, but it swells rubber o-rings too :crying . I will destroy these seals.

This "Assembly Lube" is very tacky, and does provide a level of lubrication/sealing on start-up for transmissions.

On the old trannies(722.3-722.5) it holds in the teflon o-rings on the shaft perfectly, so they do not get crushed on assembly, and on 722.6 it holds in some loose bearings and bearing caps :thumbsup:

https://d13z1xw8270sfc.cloudfront.net/origin/325741/1437612591321_assemblylube.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...ransmission+assembly+lube&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=assembly+lube

7) loctite, I do not use the "run of the mill automotive type" . Their are many flavors, and types !! One wants a high temperature type with high vibration for oily conditions(so it better not be the NSF type for food ). Loctite 270 or Loctite 272

http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8802623619073

http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8802623717377

http://www.loctite.co.uk/products-by-application-4371.htm

8) The tool that saves the day is the friction clutch compressor. Worth it's weight in gold. A must have versus using plumbing pipe couplings...

http://restockit.com/images/Product/medium/OTC7024.jpg

Many on ebay for under $50

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr..._TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=transmission+clutch+pack+compressor&LH_TitleDesc=0

The 722.6 rebuild tool looks something like this:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/4194H-2JvEL.jpg

But you need this to make it complete:

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg...rums/w211-amg/409907-e55-722-643-transmission-rebuild-pics-2.html#&gid=1&pid=60

I have both types, and I still use the $30 fleabay version

9) The Harbor Freight scissor jack is worth it for the money.

https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lbs-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/409907-e55-722-643-transmission-rebuild-pics.html#&gid=1&pid=1

10) A round punch set is worth it's weight to remove the two copper bushing bearings

https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-long-drive-pin-punch-set-93111.html

11) Small inside bearing puller is worth it to remove the K2 bearing(bushing or bearing). It is the large one used in the kit. Harbor Freight sold something like this. It is called "Blind hole inner bearing puller"

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0247/9729/products/5113-BZ_grande.jpeg?v=1375314942

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...acat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=transmission+assembly+lube&LH_TitleDesc=0


12) 30mm 12 point deep socket to remove the nut from the yoke in the rear, and the nut one needs a impact to remove the nut as one needs to break the staked edge off the nut

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w1...g/forums/w140-s-class/3007697-722-6-output-shaft-seal-removal.html#post17592189

13) You will need a 27mm 6 point standard socket with like a 3" extension on 1/2" drive with a ratchet, but a breaker bar will work fine too. All this is used for is to turn the big harmonic balancer nut CLOCKWISE !!!! Do not go counterclockwise as you could break the engine chain guides(you will hear that crunch-done it at the junk yard :grin ) which most are plastic except for one. This is all needed to expose the three-sets of 13mm torque converter bolts.

Hope this helps,

Martin
 

Attachments

#35 · (Edited)
Some key points

Some key points:

A some super key points to help the first timer on this 722.6, but it helps for the older trannies too

1) Turn the engine only CLOCKWISE(standing in front looking at the engine :nerd ), or you can damage the engine chain guides which are plastic, and you will hear that crunch in the process :wink

2) Remove the torque converter bolts first, so you do not forget. Remove the shifter linkage retaining clip with a flat screw driver. Remove the interlock cable(the bolt is close to a T30). Remove the dipstick 10mm nut at the transmission, but you should remove the 19mm housing bolt that holds the dipstick pipe on the bell housing. The bolt may be hard to get too.

3) Drain the oil pan fluid, and drain the Torque Converter too..

4) The transmission electrical connector harness has to be removed which is on the front passenger(American cars) corner of the transmission. The passenger corner should have a extra torx bolt holding this little metal plate the locks on the transmission. This little plate must exist if it is missing the exhaust heat could be deforming the harness (male) connector that goes to the transmission computer which would cause the connector to leak with time, yet when that happens. The entire harness has to be replaced, or the tedious task of removing each pin from the connector, and using a junk yard male connector as Mercedes DOES NOT sell the male plastic connector head.

To remove the connector. Just bring the lever down, and pull on the harness.

5) On the W140 the bell housing bolts has about two or three bolts with nuts on them ( dumb idea ). Those nuts are hard to get too. I think they are on the starter, and another one somewhere else. The V8 an I6 has these nuts, but the V12 does not. The V8 has this starter plate cover held in by two 5mm or 6mm hex nuts on the opposite side of the actual side of the starter. Remove that PLATE !!! The V12 has that plate too, but no need to remove it on the V12. Remove all the top bolts, and leave two very loose bolts on each side of the bell housing.

6)Remove the fan shroud that wraps around the fan. One has to remove the top key. Then the shroud turns like 10-15 degrees to disengage it from the main shroud that covers the radiator. Just lay it on the fan blades. No need to remove it from there.

7) Remove the banjo bolts for the ends of the cooler lines. The fluid will drip out, so I use ziplock sandwich bags, and #64 rubber bands. Remember each banjo bolt has two aluminum sealing washers on each side of banjo fitting, so do not lose them. If you loose them, buy only the Mercedes ones, or go to the junk yard, and get them from any 722.6 equipped car...

8) Support the transmission from the pan with your new tranny floor jack. Put a sheet of cardboard, so you do not scratch your pan :smile

9) Remove the exhaust hangers from the transmission and from the exhaust right there around the transmission, The nuts and bolts are 13mm

10) I remove the transmission support hanger that holds it in the tunnel. The bolts are four 17mm and two 13mm for the tranny mount.

11) I remove the mount bracket from the rear of the transmission, so I have a clear access to the flex disk bolts. The four 13mm long bolts hold the mount bracket.

12) Remove the flex disk bolts and nuts. They are 19mm. The drive shaft will move about an 1" or so with a pry bar, so use a large pry bar to pull apart from the flex disk, and put it on top of the flex disk, so it does not get in the way.

13) Dip the transmission on the jack, and pry off the transmission. Really try to get it with torque converter. Notice how far back the converter sits back.

14)Once the transmission is out. Measure how far the torque converter is in, and take that measurement. Use a a more accurate ruler than a yard-stick or tape measure :nerd . Take note of this measurement, and photograph it too.

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/at...40-s-class/928241d1399301401-new-s600-722-6-problem-s500_trannyteardown-003.jpg

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/at...40-s-class/928249d1399301401-new-s600-722-6-problem-s500_trannyteardown-002.jpg

If you do not measure it, you could be spinning/ pushing it in for about an hour or so :crying

15) Now you can remove the torque converter, but wiggle the front end shaft of the transmission. It should have some play If you are all assembled, and have rebuilt the transmission. There is NO PLAY on the end shaft? You cannot even turn it. Something is wrong, and you must be not seated properly on one clutch pack(s), and you will be off by 2milimeter graduations as that is how thick a friction-yes!!!! 2mm, or the timing sprockets will be off from the valve body openings possibly.

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/at...-class/2452561d1536433146-97-e-420-transmission-rebuild-bell-case-assembled.jpg

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/at...w210-e-class/2452563d1536433146-97-e-420-transmission-rebuild-_mar6408-copy.jpg

16) This leads me into this step. For the first time person. It is important to get the measurement of the output yoke is still bolted onto the transmission. Remove the bell housing. Remember their are two or three bolts behind the bell housing.

Basically you want to measure from the end of the shaft inside to the front edge of the case, and record that measurement.... That measurement will be super helpful in the final assembly as you will know if you are in all the way or not..

17) the goal with the spring clips for each clutch pack is to get to the minimum specification for each clutch pack, so really strive to make that happen no matter if you have to wait for the part(s)

Now, obviously watch some of those youtubes at the beginning of this thread, but watch the rear wheel drive transmission rebuilds from Hiram on youtube. Try to watch them while your eating. Try to watch like 20hrs to 40hrs, so you get the lingo of what is going on.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuJNRbjB41BP8SRqN0AKfZw

All the best,

Martin
 
#36 ·
I'm going to start new rebuild thread pretty soon. Can anyone supply me with the updated 722.6 rebuild guide? The original link at the top of this thread is not working, I was too late to the party.
 
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#37 · (Edited)
Super busy with all kinds of stuff, but the link where all the files were on someone's personal, and this person was here on Benzworld, but he sold off his petrol cars and went all electric, yet I thought he would continue to host the files.

I found a few sites. I'm going to take control of it with a "big name hosting" service, so be patient I will get it going, but let me know what you need.

Martin
 
#39 ·
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