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Mercedes EZL Ignition Control Module / Air connector Nipple broke of

14K views 33 replies 7 participants last post by  Joe-V12 
#1 · (Edited)
Due to extra maintenance here on my S600 , I accidentally broke the EZL Ignition control modules air nipple , dam those are fragile due to the heat .
As I was checking looking that everything is in order , just by touching it , it fall of & broke at the base of the module , a lot of air flows thru there so its best to leave the engine off .
Accident it might be but also good in a way that I did find this rotten connector, what if it brakes 100's of km's away ,this is what I call maintenance ,finding broken parts etc or just about to so they can be replaced before they leave you stranded somewhere.
Anyway I purchased another one from an S320 which is just down the road getting wrecked, its says 6CYL on the module ,I knew it wasn't going to work but the guy that had it said Yeah it will work just the same ,lol ( as usual just to make the kill ,sale ), ok I said I take it for $50 bucks ,he asked for a $100 saying that's a $3000 part but he accepted $50 ,just to test it out & see what happens ( I took it but knew its a no go ).
Engine starts and all but the whole car only slightly vibrates and the sound at the rear exhaust sounds weird , turning the steering wheel the revs almost go to zero & the car try's to turn of but then comes alive again ,all in a few seconds , I didn't try any further & turned the engine of before something goes bust , I don't need the car anyway for now .
I have access to another identical V12 module but have to wait for Peter to come back on Monday since he has a Jap import S600 like mine ,same year as well .
Ok ,other then that Guys ,when you are working near this Module in front of the firewall underneath the engine covers , don't touch it ,leave it alone ,if that nipple brakes you cant use the car ,remember that .
Except for this EZL units nipple ,everything else underneath my engine covers is rock solid ,wiring harness's are all in excellent condition with no cracks anywhere ,air hoses no leaks , no oil leaks that I can see , ac no obvious leaks & so on ,plugs have been changed ,new oil/filter /air / belts look ok ,she is perfect .
Just some pics so everyone knows which module this is & looks like . These are not interchangeable between other Merc's , check part number that it is the same like yours on the car if not don't buy it , same part # only ..:thumbsup:
 

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#2 · (Edited)
I received the Modules but have a different part number ,they came from an 94 S600 . When I installed both of them the hole car shakes , yet the MB mechanics keep on telling me that the part is exactly the same just an updated part number , I don't know if I want to belive that.
I installed one of my original once & one with the updated prt number & the car still shakes , then I swapped the passenger with the drivers side module and the ASR light turns on firm as soon as the engine starts , so that's out .
At the moment I have reinstalled both of my originals and fixed the airleak best way I could for now temporarily ,the engine sounds much better but still shakes , specially the hood in the raised up position moves / shakes pretty much as if it is on an overdosed drug or something ,lol.
Any ideas guys as I'm just about to buy a module from the US with my same part number , maybe there is something else that needs replacing that has broken or gone faulty when the air nipple lost its air pressure in the beginning .

I cant think of anything else atm .
Can these modules be tuned to the car or any adjustments necessary ? . :thumbsup:

1st pic is the original I had in the car with Prt # 0 125 45 6932
, 2nd pic is the once I received X2 with Prt # 013 545 70 32
 

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#3 · (Edited)
Stuff it , I just bought it lol .Better to have it coming towards me then wait .In the meantime I see what I can do , even if I get to fix it ,I have one spare .:thumbsup:
 

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#5 ·
Hey Chris

Re install your old one that you know works
Use a heap of blue tack to seal it in place

Then test :)

Cheer's .......... Lee

-ps my 500 coupe is running like a dream now that I replaced the crank position sensor and caps and rotors
-just need to replaced my neutral safety switch as sometimes it surges a little
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the info Lee .What is that Blue Tack you mean ,is it that white paste underneath the module ( Heat conducting paste ) , I took it all off to clean it and replaced it with Computer processor compound paste , it think that's where my problems is .
PC heat transfer paste must be different then the one on a car , looks the same thought ,lol.:thumbsup:

Good luck with it Chris.
Thanks Joe ,I need luck here and a Module lol.:thumbsup:
 
#7 ·
Hi Chris

Yes you should be ok with the computer silicon grease but make sure its not applied to thick as its supposed to be like a filler to allow proper metal to metal contact - read up about it on google

I just hope that nothing was upset to much when you tried to use a six cylinder module - perhaps disconnect the battery for 20 minutes or so to clear all the ECU's ?

The blue tack stuff is just so you can re try you old module that you know works - if it does you could use some sort of more permanmet stuff that is similar to blue tack

2 Packs BLU Tack 60G Handy Size Bostik Blue TAC Fast Delivery Best Value ON Ebay | eBay

Cheer's ............ Lee
 
#8 ·
For now I super glued that airpipe to the little tiny Nipple , sounds much better but she is still not 100% , I think there is some other fault somewhere now , could be the module itself because I did try to open it to swap Nipples from the 6 cylinders module ,that nipple was perfect but these modules cant be open'd up so I gave up on that .
I just wait a week for the other module that I bought last night to arrive ,if that one doesn't work like make the engine sound the way she was before ,that's when I will start pulling parts of ,including manifold , because I suspect the knock sensors have gone Kaput , hope not but there is a chance ,good excuse to paint that manifold finally lol .
I think i didn't add enough of that Heat compound paste , maybe there are to many volts passing to the coils , on cold engine she sounds almost perfect but as she heats up slowly it starts sounding like cylinders are cutting out one by one ,if i turn the steering wheel ,the revs go down then back up .
I check tomorrow as i have more time ,could even be just another airpipe disconnected near the back of the engine when i pulled one of the modules pipes .
Engine was perfect before now un drivable ,all that for one air hose on the Ignition Module .
Don't worry ,she wont go onto the market because of it ,lol .:thumbsup:
 
#9 · (Edited)
OK , The module arrived , looks like an almost new unit to . I scraped of the white thermal paste and replaced it with a new fresh heat thermal paste , installed the module ,start the car after I left the battery disconnected for a week , Car starts right up ,1100 rpm ,then settles down to about 700 , about 30 seconds later it sounds like as if cylinders start to shut of & the hood in open position vibrates, so I'm back to square one now .
I arranged a code reader scanner from my friend Jimmy , reading the codes it shows the " LH-SFI 1 & 2 & EGR switchover valve ,stored circuit open or short " , so I clear the codes but they return when I restart the car and rescan the system .
Now I'm thinking , could it be that the paste I'm adding is not enough , every time I take the modules of , out from the car and looking underneath the modules , that paste looks as if it didn't touch the fender metal at all , that's on both sides ( left & right fender ) , still as smooth like I just spread it on with a credit card , the amount i ad is like what is used on a PC processor , I might need to triple the amount so the paste actually makes contact with the cars fender .
Any Hints/Suggestions/Tips anyone , It cant be the coils ,it cant be the sparkplugs /rotors etc ,they all new ,the car ran absolutely perfectly before this module nipple broke of , what could have been triggered ? , thats why I'm thinking the thermal paste ,either not enough or the wrong one ( Heat Thermal Paste I'm using ) .:thumbsup:

BTW: For the last 2 hours or more I have been reading / searching here on the forum for answer's ,nothing that has a solution ,there are threads with the same problem ,but when they found the solution for the problem within those thread's ,THERE IS NEVER THE FINAL POST TO REVEAL THE ANSWER HOW IT WAS FIXED , This is a big fault here on the forum , Ask the question , help is supplied ,car gets fixed , but then What was the fix & how ,final post message is not there .:teach:
 
#14 · (Edited)
The LH-SFI 1 & 2 codes get erased once I select erase all codes ,its the other one that is always present , read current codes and there it is EGR switchover valve ,stored circuit open or short , I'm gonna buy a new one tomorrow & see what happens ,faulty or not faulty .
What is strange is that this valve was or still is (?) perfectly functioning before the ICModule broke .
BTW , I have organized the mechanic that installed my new engine , I see him tomorrow hoping he has time to come with me to the car in my garage , just in case , I armed my self with a video how the engine sounds etc & what it does .:thumbsup:
 
#13 · (Edited)
Plinker / Lee , either way thanks for replying at all , what would I do without you's , looks like no one knows anything about this , I searched & searched but no luck .
Today I had more time and basically started dismantling the whole engine bay to see if there is an airleak somewhere ,also jacked the car up & looked underneath ,everywhere and everything is in order .
I tested the switch over valve but it holds pressure on disconnecting the hoses ,the revs go weird , I also took both of the Ignition control modules out and added more of that Heat Thermal paste ,now it's slowly slowly slipping/dripping out from underneath the module , the amount I added is basically the same that was on the original , the module is now touching the fenders body as well with that paste under it , so that should be ok .
I rescanned the car without the airfilters attached & it throw codes galore lol , I erased all codes now , checked the switch over valve again & now I'm here typing ,still no luck finding the fault .
I'm thinking something inside the dizzy area must have gone faulty but I have no lights on the cluster with the engine running .
Start her up she sounds perfect ,then 20 seconds later returns the uneven idle , if I rev the engine to past 3000rpm everything is normal , let go on the accelerator & select reverse gear or D ,she goes down to about 400rpm then up again and then settles back to 700 normal rpm for a while .
WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEIRD .:rocketwhore::banghead::thumbsup:
 
#16 ·
I'm thinking something inside the dizzy area must have gone faulty but I have no lights on the cluster with the engine running .:
Does your car have a distributor? If so, is everything in the best possible condition?

Clean and in 1st class condition?

Also, no cheapo rotor arms or caps? MB original or Beru/Bosch second best.

Or maybe your car's more modern that that.

Best of luck.

RayH
 
#15 ·
I also did the reset for the WOT (Wide Open Throttle ) (Joe ,lol) , work for a bit but then ,back to square one .:thumbsup:
 
#17 · (Edited)
I received the Camshaft sensors finally , I installed them but problem remains the same but slightly better .
I checked the coils (X2) ,they are not getting hot , all Rotors are ok .
Tomorrow I strip and change all 12 spark plugs again , maybe & hopefully one or two have just a slight hairline crack on it .
What the engine does is ,Starts up perfect then after 20/30 seconds starts to shake & looses revs , now with the new sensors on it it shakes less but I can feel the drop in revs .
Inserting the gear , any gear ,she starts shaking pretty badly ,this is why I don't really suspect sparkplugs but just change them to rule them out .
Also changed the Ignition Control Module again and cleaned them up with that white heat paste ,maybe that's the problem but no go , I took almost all of that paste of and left a little bit on it like found on a PC processor (home computer).
When I disconnect either one of the camshaft sensor magnets at the front of the engine on each side ,there is no reaction from the engine at all ,I don't know if there supposed to be a drop of revs or not .
The only thing I haven't touched or checked yet are the Throttle Actuators ,but they where perfectly fine before so why would I even suspect them now !!! .
I'm at a loss .
Any hints tips as I tried everything within my knowledge , if I give the car to the mechanic that installed the engine , they will rip me of big time , I know ,I don't like them .:thumbsup:
 
#19 ·
Hopefully it works out for you if the superglue doesn't crack resulting with air pressure loss which will cause all sort of problems like I have now .
I have purchased 3 good 2nd used Ignition control modules , all 3 look like new ,yet the one I have in the car right now is the one that was in it originally , the one that had the nipple broke off lol, engine behaves the same with that one .
So I don't think it is the ICM after all .Maybe there is a relay that has burned ,I don't know yet. :thumbsup:
 
#20 · (Edited)
This is the old video I have taken before the Camshaft sensors ,so its about 6 weeks old .
I just let the engine run at idle for about half'n hour with occasionally holding the revs up to 2500 , I spotted some smoke coming out from the passenger side maf so I stopt instantly & removed the maf and airfilter ,it was a bit of wd40 on the lead over the exhaust lol.
The more she is running and sounds to get better but still sort of not running right , the revs are uneven with the engine slightly shaking/vibrating .
Turning the steering wheel the revs go down by a fair bit , I also swapped out the left ICM to the right & the right to the left , even better but still not 100 % .
Maybe it's just to much Wd40 all over or in some of the plugs since I sprayed that stuff everywhere before , now I closed the hood with engine hot so lets see if it drys out , fingers crossed but that would be to good to be true I guess.:thumbsup:

The revs drop at 29 seconds in .
 
#21 ·
Hey Chris

CRC = Bad Stuff

Are those Caps and Rotors on your V12 ? if they are I bet there is moisture in there
I have the same problem with my V8 if I do not drive it nearly every day for at least 20 K I get the same problem your having and then I have to drive it for about 30 or 40 K to dry out the Caps and Rotors

What I do it plan a drive with no stop lights because it can stall on me and then I cannot get it to run again until the motor is cold

Cheer's ........... Lee
 
#22 ·
Yes I have , you think there could be moisture inside it ,if so why would the car do what it is doing now after I drove the car all day before she broke down like this , the symptoms are the same ,nothing has changed so far ,better then what is in the video on the previous page but still not good .
It could explain why the car seams to run better & better the more I keep the engine running , surely if there is any moisture in it ,it should dry out by now .
I sprayed wd40 all over them as well ,that's what it is for ,to remove clear or dry up water moisture etc .
Thanks for the tip ,il look into it Lee .:thumbsup:
 
#24 ·
I do that tomorrow morning , just trying to figure out a way not to disturb to many leads there just now .
If I start unplugging all the 12 ht lead connectors , I be in huge trouble lol .:thumbsup:
 
#26 · (Edited)
Received the other sensor today ( this morning actually ) .
I took my time putting this one in as I wanted everything back in its perfect place plus extras like neat work .
I also changed all 12 Spark Plugs again and refilled 20 litres of fresh petrol ,sucked it out of my pick up truck .
Started her up and she sounded all fine , 1 minute later she dropped revs .
This time I reversed her out of the garage as I couldn't stand to see her covered in dust, washed & polished the car all over ,looks like new atm .
Then I took the risk to drive her around the block because something didn't ad up here ,she sounds perfect above the 1000 revs but lower after about a minute or so ,she drops revs like stumbles , no misfiring .
Anyway I drove around the block and she drove absolutely perfect ,nice & smooth ,standing on a red light I could feel the revs cutting out , as if there is an electrical surge , but it didn't do it all the time at every stop , driving of she stumbles along for a little while ,about a 100-200 meters until I accelerate a little more then everything is perfect .
The more I drove her the better she wend ahead , tomorrow I drive her to jimmy and scan for codes ,see what happens then as he has more machines to do testing .
I'm so happy i'm almost there and had a really good long drive , best car I have driven in the last 8 weeks that's for sure , nothing beats the W140 ,nothing , but only when they drive perfectly. :thumbsup:
 
#27 ·
Did you thoroughly clean out the insides of your distributor caps?

I ask because this was a reoccurring issue with my former 95 S500 coupe. It could sit for a day or two and after doing so, idled poorly. You could try driving it to get the temperature up and drive out the moisture, but after a while even that didn't help.

This drove me crazy for a good three weeks until I cleaned out the caps.

Ran fine after that.

Dan
 
#28 ·
Lee - Dan .

Pulled the distributors out today ,they where just covered with the normal black dust , I cleaned them up and started the car , no difference .
I swapped over the new part number ICM's again , that made the idling even worst now , so I put the old once back in , still idle was rough .
One thing I got to notice is that when the car is standing on a level surface she sounds ok at times but as soon as I drive it out of the garage ,there is a slight incline driving it out (down),she starts to rumble & shudder .
The car hasn't had any fuel in it for weeks now ,I just keep toping it up with a 10 Liter petrol canister once in a while , the yellow petrol light has been on for a while as well .
Yesterday the petrol I added probably wasn't enough ,so today Ihan needed some parts of me and even that I didn't want any money from him he insisted not to feel guilty , ok put it in the ashtray and later on I stumbled driving the car towards the nearest petrol station and fill her up using ihan's money lol .
After I filled her up and drove of ,it took about 500 meters or so ,when all of a sudden the engine just revved up a little extra & just took of as I accelerated more , after this happened the car so far has been 100% , I drove for about 50 km's around in circles ,highway stop go traffic etc , I even turned AC on , NO changes in revs whats so ever .
Looks like there must have been some dirt from inside the petrol tank that clogged one of the injectors during the standing time in the garage ( 8 weeks ) .
Lets hope that I didn't press the trigger to soon ,lets see tomorrow morning how she sounds when she is cold , if she stays the way she is now ,it's 100% perfect ,lots of power with a smooth idle & rides absolutely perfect ,that's way I did about 50+km's in circles (big circles 5-7 k's ea go) ,I didn't want to stop ,I passed my house many times but each time I said ,stuff it lets do it again,lol.:thumbsup:
 
#29 ·
How long has the car sat with almost no fuel in the tank?

If it's been a while, there's a good chance you have corrosion in the tank and it's getting into the fuel system.

I've dealt with two cars recently that had fuel system issues due to being stored for long periods of time and the fuel tanks not being full. Condensation occurs and the inside of the tank rusts.

When the tank is filled, the rust comes off the side of the tank and clogs the tank strainer, filters, and even damages the fuel pump(s). One of the cars, a W126, was so bad that it would barely run for 50 miles before clogging everything up again.

I'm not saying this is your problem, but if the car has been sitting for weeks or months without running and having a full tank of fuel, it certain is a possibility.

Dan
 
#30 ·
Thanks Dan
The car has been standing in the garage for 8 weeks now without much petrol at all ,at one stage I think she ran out completely while I was pinpointing the problem .
On my old petrol cap there was always some moisture on it now on this new one I have ,I haven't seen it anymore .
I think it must have been moisture contamination or water bad petrol or dirt from the bottom of the tank .
The rough idling I had for the last two days was a different kind of idle ,similar like the faulty camshaft sensors but more rough in a way, even driving it ,felt like as if she was forced to go with vibrations on the accelerator pedal , now that's all gone ,all in one hit after I filled her up , I was kind of used to the rough idle ,probably that's why I didn't notice it much in regards to the low petrol .
I always suspected water contamination somehow because I do wash the car a lot ,that's one of the reasons I occasionally add a liter or two of Metholated Spirits into half a tank of petrol to dry it up .
Tomorrow will reveal if it's good or not , however I just started the car again and she sounded ok after 2 hours parked ..
Fingers Crossed lol.:thumbsup:
 
#31 · (Edited)
OK , I just fired her up this morning , sounds perfectly running at aprox 700 revs , turning on AC or heating dosent make any change in revs just slightly which is normal .
Give it to MB service and you be up for $5000 to start up with easy .
I did ask Mercedes workshops ,they guessed just like me what the fault could be ,they wanted to swap Throttle Actuators ,at $2750 each ,start counting your valet , then it would have been the Cam sensors ,at $580 +gst each ,and all she wanted was a full tank of petrol lol.:banghead:


1st :Fault was ,starting the engine & 20 seconds later the revs dropped dramatically down to 200 revs then back up then down again , the fix for that Camshaft Sensors .

2nd fault: Rough idle and stalling stumbling up hill ,Water/Moisture contamination inside the tank without much petrol after 8 weeks of standing still in the garage .

Thanks to all & everyone ( Joe/Dan & Lee ) that have contributed on this including Syljua on the parent threat of this " http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/2421329-v12-m120-camshaft-sensor-location.html " and helping me out with hints etc .
Thanks to Benzworld as well to make all this online help possible in the 1st place .


Total cost was around $1000AU Dollars , all parts purchased from USA . Purchasing the parts here in Australia it would have been well over $3000 .
The car never left the garage & no mechanics involved except Jimmy that lend me his scanner .
Biggest Issue problem was ,waiting time for the parts to arrive from the US with PBI post Carrier , what a headache that company .

Case Closed .Car is Fixed back to it's original operating status .
 
#33 ·
If I where you Joe , now that I learned my lesson with the MB tank ,Fill the car up , don't allow the moisture/water to get to the actuators etc , I bet your car has probably the same rough idle like mine had yesterday .
Every day add 20 litres if you cant drive it to the nearest petrol station , fill up the S420 & then suck it back out to feed the King .
If the yellow petrol light is on ,you need exactly 87 litres .:thumbsup:
 
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