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Leaking go half shaft

3K views 18 replies 5 participants last post by  Coastalbenz95 
#1 ·
So apparently the driver side rear half shaft looks like it's leaking a little at the differential. Anyone ran into this? Is this a minor seal replacement or more?
 
#2 ·
Costal,

I have this too. I'm just going to keep adding oil to the rear-end.

G-AMG wrote two threads on taking the half shafts off, but did not do it on the seal. I have no clue how easy or how hard, nor have i googled the process, and the process will be the same for nearly all the Benz' out there as the rear-ends are very much identical...

Martin
 
#3 ·
Coastal, are the pics below what you have? My Drivers side seal is bad, figured I would do the passenger as well. Looks like the exhaust would need to come out do make things a little easier. I am going to go a step further and drop the entire differential, seems easy enough and it will make things that much easier to service. Plus, I will have a much easier time cleaning up the mess under there and attacking a few other repairs.

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#4 ·
Identical! Looks like the seal on the driver side is the weak link. I'm thinking of replacing the seal but if I go that far may as well replace the cv axle shafts too after 205,000 miles. I don't see where u can buy replacement shafts at all. I see the boot kits though.
 
#5 ·
I don't know about the halfshafts themselves but maybe they can be rebuilt?
The information I have been looking at for the seal replacement does not really look that difficult, it's just getting to them that looks a bit 'involved'.
I know what you mean about the mileage though, at the point a number of our cars are at we need to start looking at what really needs replacement.

Chris
 
#6 ·
Exactly my feel. If I have to take them off to replace seals I'd just replace the shafts and all. I probably need to do my drive shaft bushings as well but they don't look bad. Not sure if the previous owner did these or not but feel better when I know all the mechanicals are up to par.
 
#7 ·
Sounds like you may be tackling this project before me, let me know if you run into any issues worth passing along.
I will be snapping a few pictures once I get into this. I am hoping to get a transmission jack to aid in dropping the differential so once that is purchased I will be on my way.

You sound like me when it comes to replacing things that you don't know the service history on...my problem is I want to start replacing everything...
 
#11 ·
I think you are talking apples & oranges....

The Half-Shaft has nothing to do with your leak. The "Leaking Seal" is inside the Differential.

The only reason why i am suggesting you "Refresh" the Half-Shaft is solely based upon the fact that the removal is a bit of a pain, so "While You have it Out, service it."
 
#13 ·
That diff weighs 105lbs, bring a buddy.

Your half shafts should just be checked for obvious wear or boot tearing. If you had problems with the mechanical functioning of the joints, you'd know it by some pretty horrible sounds when the car is placed in gear. I replaced both my axles with lower mileage ones, but the originals were in surprisingly good shape after 214K miles.

So, drop the diff and pull the rear cover off. Remove the ring gear and replace your side carrier seals.

The 12 bolts that attach the axles to the diff are single use and should be replaced. Instead of using the factory replacement bolts (with the reverse Torx heads), I used stainless steel ARP 775-1006 M12 x 1.75 x50 12 point bolts. Aside from the easier to use 12 point heads, the bolt's shanks are actually 12mm which is the dimension of the holes in the axle flange that the bolts pass through. The factory bolt's shank is maybe 10.5mm which allows for a possible shift under load. If you have something less than a V12, I wouldn't worry about it unless you like the convenience of the 12 point head.

Now would also be a good time to RR or inspect your end links and subframe bushings.
 
#14 ·
Mahunt, that is some pretty decent information there. Good to know about the bolt replacement alternatives!
Curious about the seal replacement which would probably help Coastal and I out. After removing the axle, isn't there a bolt on the 'flange' (what axle bolts to on differential) that needs to be unbolted?
I had also seen some information about a clip or similar that needs to be removed to then release the flange?
You mention ring gear, maybe that's what I am not correctly calling the part?

Chris
 
#15 ·
The ring and pinion are THE two major components in the diff. If you don't know what they are then maybe you should stop now.

After you unbolt the axles from the diff, BEHIND the axle mounting flange there is another set of bolts that affix the axle flange to the diff housing (take a look for yourself). Your failed seals are inside this component (one on each side).
 
#16 ·
Yes, I understand the differences of the two just asked the question incorrectly I suppose. Regardless, I see what you mean. The flange with the other set of bolts was where my interest was at. I was under the impression that there may be some sort of C clip on this inside of the differential much like say a Ford 8.8 - my first import so I am a little off with terms around here and learning differences.
 
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