|01-28-2013, 09:59 AM||#11 (permalink)|
Deutsche Tourenwagen Meisterschaft
|01-28-2013, 04:23 PM||#12 (permalink)|
Lifetime Premium Member
It does sound like you've got some extra resistance. Could be from grounds as mentioned or in the starter, meaning a new/rebuilt starter could be in your future, or bad wiring. What do you know about your lower engine wiring harness? This harness includes wires to the starter.
|01-29-2013, 02:17 AM||#14 (permalink)|
Date registered: Dec 2005
Vehicle: 1993 300SEL (Sold) 2001 530i
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Bad battery - swap with another car. Even a fairly lazy battery should let the car crank at normal speed. A totally dead battery will cause a slow start/click. But it sounds like you've eliminated that already.
Bad Starter - I would have thought this would have caused longer than normal cranking over a period of time, unless it's just completely given out from lack of use.
Bad ground - personally I think that this sounds more likely.
Battery cables - I once had a car where the battery lead itself had degraded inside the insulation causing non-starting.
Don't these cars sometime suffer from the cam position sensor failing? But I'd still think you'd at least get the car to crank.
Something drawing excessive current from somewhere, what's the charge of the car when it's "resting".
|01-29-2013, 12:25 PM||#15 (permalink)|
Date registered: Feb 2008
Vehicle: 1997 SL600 Silver with grey/dark metal interior, 203K miles
Location: Lutz, FL
If you have a leaky injector(s), (see fuel odor), one or more of your cylinders can be full of fuel and you may be trying to compress an incompressible substance.
Pull your plugs (plus the FI pump relay in trunk) and see if the engine spins easier (it should if only because there is no compression being built) and ejects fuel. Note the condition of all plugs upon removal and look for wetness (fuel). If fuel fountains out one or two cylinders, those are the leaky injectors.
If it still won't spin with the plugs removed, then something electrical is definitely the matter.
|01-29-2013, 05:22 PM||#16 (permalink)|
Date registered: Aug 2011
Vehicle: 1992 600SEL and 1990 ford taurus GL
Location: Billings, Mt (US)
Re: Wont Start - M120
I'm telling you the engine is either flooded or the starter is going out/ has high resistance. I weak starter will generally be able to turn engine over a little and of course the more juice you put to it the more it will turn the engine over, but will not be able to start it. The engine of flooded though should still be able to turn over. Slowly, but with a good starter, it will turn over. I would be willing to be money it has something to do with the starter or has to do something with the engine flooded.
Sent from my HTC6435LVW using AutoGuide.Com Free App
|01-29-2013, 08:24 PM||#17 (permalink)|
Lifetime Premium Member
I agree with mahunt. Pull your plugs and see if you have a cylinder full of fuel or coolant. Don't try to start it any more until you know for sure your not trying to compress fluids. Lets us know what you find. We can go from there.
83 380SEC Euro's, AMG Aero 1's (need refinished), Recaro C Classics, much more to come!
|03-29-2013, 11:52 PM||#18 (permalink)|
So its turns out it was my starter harness. The wire was completely stripped of insulation. So finally had the time and scheduled to have it done. And while I was at it, had the shifter bushings replaced too.
Wish I had pics of the wire. anyway...
Last edited by z168; 03-29-2013 at 11:57 PM.
|Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)|