MOre...

 

Reassembled everything back after a thorough cleaning of all black dust and plugged it in with crossed fingers...it's alive! Not having fully functional remote door locks with passengers is a real pain in the ass! Just wondering how long this temp fix will last?????

 

That's pretty cool. I'm not an ee, but the only comment I have is my understanding is that electric motor brushes are made of graphite for the reason that the graphite wears out before the copper contacts on the rotor do. That's by design because brushes are easier and cheaper to replace than the whole rotor. Your bit of steel replacement for the brush could be problematic in destroying the rotor contacts. Maybe you can find some cheap graphite electric motor brushes to reshape to fit this motor.

This does confirm what I've suspected all along, that the brushes wear out and cause the pump to die.

Brett

 

You have created a self destruct mechanism. Graphite also is used because of its self lubricating properties. There are lots of places selling generic replacement brushes and assortments online.

 

Yep, ya'll are right about the non-optimum material selection! I'm gonna try some carbon brushes from my non-working dremel tool...

 

PART DEUX:
Found an old non-working dremel with easily replaceable carbon brushes that worked perfectly. The first attempt ended up getting crushed on my workbench vise. Its like hardened pencil lead but much easier to shape. Cut and shaped the other brush with a file instead of a hacksaw. Since it is soft compared to steel, the tapped screw hole didn't hold up so I snaked some copper wire thru both holes and blobbed some solder to hold it down.

It works perfectly! :thumbsup:
Should last a while, I read somewhere that most DC motor brushes wear unevenly, drag vs. push since this motor has to reverse direction for either creating pressure or vacuum...

 

Nice!! Looks like the work of a surgeon. LOL

Brett

 

wow im very impressed with this thread..

My PSE pump died just the other day.. I kind of saw it coming, thanx e-bay.. this was a replacement pump I bought from someone in San Diego California off e-bay..

Recieved it on February 14, and it died on 29 April DAMMMIT! Oh well, its atlest repairable because I am quite sure the eletronics are still fine, has to be this motor. (When I press the remote, the green and orange lights still light up on the door handles, and my alarm system still works, thats why I assume the electrics are fine. I used to hear the pump working, but now no sound..)

I will try this repair, maybe the old motor from the PSE pump which I pulled out in the first place might have some life on it.. I will open both of them up and see if I can build one up from all the "good condition" parts..

Thanks for the motivational tutorial, will update you on what happens..

 

I have to say, much respect and thank you sooooo much for this write up!!

It trully inspired me to take on the job since my pump died about 2 weeks ago..

So I followed all the instructions, and stripped the pump which was reletively easy. But then It took me about 2 hours to open up the bottom part of the "dc motor" lol, but oh well.. Was beeing diffecult and I didn't want to break anything. (Pump was in excellent condition in terms of electronics) when I did get the motor open, it was clearly visible that the strata brushes were beyond depleted, clearly in need of replacement.

So here's my contribution to thread..

I found good "strata brush" replacements! If your motorised radio antenna does not operate anymore (like mine was) I just took out the mechanism from the antenna mast and put the everything back to normal. The antenna is still plugged in and operational, the black box still supports it, all I removed was the cogs and dc motor. (I'm going to replace the whole antenna mast anyway, so no loss either way.) This antenna mast is obviously located on the left hand side of the trunk behind the carpet lining

The electric antenna motor is slightly smaller than the pse pump motor, but the "Strata brushes" were in great condition and possible as replacements in the pse pump! Had to get abit creative in terms of fitting the strata brushes into the pse housing, but secured them eventually..

Rebuilt everything back the way it was, and obviously cleaned all the parts. (My hands were pitch black from the original strata brush residue from all over the inside of the pse pump housing.)

The circuit board also got a good clean with turps and fitted it into my S320.. Crossed my fingers, then tried to lock the door... YES!!! It works now!!! All my PSE functions restored back to normal, if not even smoother!!

Many, MANY thanx for this motivational and informational thread! It really did help me repair my PSE pump!

 

Howto remove motor from vacuum pump??

But then It took me about 2 hours to open up the bottom part of the "dc motor" lol, but oh well.. Was beeing diffecult and I didn't want to break anything.

So what is the trick to remove the vacuum pump rotor and remove motor from the pump backing plate for motor replacement?

It appears there must be two screws holding the backing plate to the motor. But how do you remove the vacuum rotor and the bottom part of the vacuum pump to get at the screws? I must be really slow..

 

Great thread MOS500 :beerchugr:. The brushes on mine are suely close to gone as well.

 

Great job. Many components in our cars are of a repairable quality. With my 2006 Chevy van, they are mostly throwaway. You can't make chicken soup out of chicken shit.

 

Heres a pic of the Ariel mechanism that I removed from the aerial mast, and used for parts to repair the PSE pump.. It didnt work anyway, so no loss by taking it out.. (The strata brushes were thick and made a perfect replacement)

Second pic is the "Donor" strata brushes fitted on my PSE motor.. Not a great pic, but you get the idea.. I would think that 90% of PSE pump failure would be due to this reason.. If it works intermittently before eventually dying, and you alarm still works, aswel as the little lights on the door handles (but not the central locking) then the chances are that your motor in the PSE pump is in need of repair.. Replace the Strata brushes and you back in business lol!!

Thanks again "MOS500" you really helped me out..

 

Second pic is the "Donor" strata brushes fitted on my PSE motor..

Mafiadon,

I'm confused by your use of the phrase "strata brushes." Do you mean "stator brushes?" May just be an English translation thing, since English may not be your first language. "Stator" is the stationary part of the motor that includes the brushes. Is that what you mean? Just seeking clarification.

Thanks,
Brett

 

Could some one "PDF" this repair and upload it to the "Knowledge Database"?????

This trully will help MANY W140 owners, because this is usually the first thing to go wrong on a PSE pump, and sooo many people have bought new ones when they could have just replaced these "Strata Brushes" in the motor.. I found this thread REALLY helpful, and used it just as a guideline to do the actual repair. not only is it informative, but also motivating since it is a DIY repair and costs are virtually none..

This thread could save countless people, Thousands of dollars!

 

Thanks for all the constructive feedback and I have more to report!
My temp repair only lasted about 2 months before my PSE motor died again. The solder eventually melted off and the copper brush broke in half.

The next solution which is a hell of a lot more reliable and a better method was to order a Johnson replacement motor that appears to be very similar in specs to the stock one which I measured in terms of shaft size, motor size, etc: 12VDC compatible, 5 pole, identical mounting tapped screw holes for the pump, rotation reversible and motor diameter.
See 9167AK/66430/3H1644
https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001CID=HPCATALOGCID=HPCATALOG_2082177_-1

Best of all, it only cost $2.49 but with a minimum order of $10 otherwise they surcharge you, I ordered 2 motors and a nice pair of Xcelite snips for about $11 and $8 shipping= $19 clams.

My previous repair was OK in terms of getting the locks to work but was a bit slow and lazy to move. I noticed the pump would run for about 10sec. each time which may be the time out limit. My remote double pump would still not remotely open the trunk.

One modification is required: you must file the shaft down flat on one side and file off the splines in order for the pump vanes "D" shaft lock to fit and secure the rest of the pump assembly. See pix below.

Now, it's night/day difference. The locks respond instantly and swiftly, and the pump only runs for about 1-3 sec. Very snappy operation including restoration of the remote double pump to open the trunk which is super convenient when I got my hands full!

Here's a couple pix of the new motor. Sorry didn't take additional pix since there is nothing new to share but the motor is marked with a red circle near one of the electrical post to indicate to solder to the red wire which should be positive and result in proper motor rotation.
Good luck everyone!

 

How to Remove Vacuum Pump from Electric Motor?

identical mounting tapped screw holes for the pump, rotation reversible and motor diameter.

I'm working on a W210 PSE that has burned out brushes. What is the trick to remove the vacuum pump from the electric motor? How do you remove the vacuum rotor from the motor shaft for a complete motor replacement?

Thanks in advance.
Doug

 

More great info MOS500. Way cool.

Brett

 

MOS500,

Great info. Thanks for sharing. I ordered two motors to replace in my pump. Awesome job finding replacement motor that fits.

 

Wow, between this inexpensive fix for the PSE and Brett's classic writeup for the close-assist pump, we all should have fully functioning doors, locks and trunks! Great info gentleman.

 

I give it two thumbs up, just for repairing instead of replacing.

 

awesome post for it saved me mega bucks...thanks for confirming the red dot positive marker.

 

Just for the record, a pump from a 126 or 202 can be used, I used a 126 pump/motor as I had one in stock, the wires must be reversed or it will blow when it should suck. it fitted nicely and all that was required was a small rubber block to hold it down. the 202 motor will also fit but needs one outlet to be blanked off. I understand the the later 210 motors are a perfect fit.

My trunk locking diaphragm had a hole in it, the pump now cuts within 3 seconds

 

Compatible motors



Fwiw, I went to my local pick n pull yesterday and grabbed a motor out of a 201 and 124. Both motors have shafts which are shorter than the shaft in the 140 PSE. I wound up using the motor from the 124 because the body of the motor was identical to the 140. There was a small amount of modification required due to the shorter shaft. But, it works. The wires are blue and red vs black and red in the 140. I checked the wires and they do not need to be reversed. Connect red on motor to red on circuit board and blue on motor to black on circuit board.

As is often the case with our European cars, pick n pull did not have this motor in their database. They wound up pricing it as a door lock solenoid at $16. Had I had time to look at the price list, I would have told them it was a wiper fluid pump motor which they sell for $5 ea. Still not as cheap as some of the new Johnson motors listed on this page but I wanted to fix it without waiting for parts.

At these low prices I would not bother with disassembly and parts replacement with these little motors. Too much work.

 

Hmn, jameco doesn't carry those motors anymore. Think this one is similar?:
H615-65050: JOHNSON COMPONENTS: Electromechanical

 

I need one as well. Have you tried this motor by chance?

 

When my PSE-pump died, I had the electric motor replaced by one from an A-class (I believe it was). It was meant to be a temporary solution, but after almost two years it still works great!

 

Seconding this - while I sort out my rear noise figured I'd attack some low hanging fruit. Purchased a W168 PSE assembly for $36, thankfully since the electric motor is outside the A Class housing I just pretty much replaced my existing burnt out motor part for part and re-assembled. Works great

 

looks like you can still get that johnson motor on ebay; part number 9167ak

 

I have a question about the re-assembly of the pump. The second picture on the first page shows the black pieces of the pump assembly laid out on a table. There seems to be a few ways to stack those pieces back together and I may have mine dis-oriented as it didn't work upon re-assembly.

I'm going to take it apart again and try another combination, the guide, I thought was there, were the little "slots" on the outside diameter to line them up. But the only pattern I see is the large slots to pass the three screws to hold it back together.

If someone has a picture handy showing how it should go back together, please post as I'm not getting the pump to work. I will recheck to make sure I'm getting rotation from the motor, but even so, I'm wondering even if the motor was working, whether it would pump in its current configuration.

Thanks.