Hey Guy's. This Saturday is my last day for scheduled maintenance/repairs on my '94 S320 for a while. I'm replacing the Fuel Pressure Regulator on the right-hand side - front of the engine.
Doe's anyone have any instructions/pics for this 15 - 30 minute Job ??
Hey, Symbolic! Hey, Brett! .......................... Help !!
Hey Guy's. This Saturday is my last day for scheduled maintenance/repairs on my '94 S320 for a while. I'm replacing the Fuel Pressure Regulator on the right-hand side - front of the engine.
Doe's anyone have any instructions/pics for this 15 - 30 minute Job ??
Hey, Symbolic! Hey, Brett! .......................... Help !!
Thanks!
Sorry, I have no experience. I'm guessing that it screws into the fuel rail and then there is is just the fuel line connections, which may be screw on fittings, and the vacuum line. I wouldn't expect it to be difficult at all. One warning: watch out for residual fuel pressure if the car has been running in the last hour or so. Crack open the fuel line slowly, and maybe wrap a rag around the fitting as you loosen it to catch leaking/squirting fuel.
Sorry, I have no experience. I'm guessing that it screws into the fuel rail and then there is is just the fuel line connections, which may be screw on fittings, and the vacuum line. I wouldn't expect it to be difficult at all. One warning: watch out for residual fuel pressure if the car has been running in the last hour or so. Crack open the fuel line slowly, and maybe wrap a rag around the fitting as you loosen it to catch leaking/squirting fuel.
Sorry, I have no experience. I'm guessing that it screws into the fuel rail and then there is is just the fuel line connections, which may be screw on fittings, and the vacuum line. I wouldn't expect it to be difficult at all. One warning: watch out for residual fuel pressure if the car has been running in the last hour or so. Crack open the fuel line slowly, and maybe wrap a rag around the fitting as you loosen it to catch leaking/squirting fuel.
Doe's anyone have any instructions/pics for this 15 - 30 minute Job ??
Hello BigBruce,
While I do not have instruction nor images of the job, start
by looking at the FPR. Theres two connections on it. One large
at the bottom and one at the top. The one at the bottom has
a inner and outer tube.
The small one at the top, coming out sideways, is where you connect the vacuum
hose from the manifold. The idea is to keep the fuel pressure at a constant
level above manifold pressure. Then when there is load on the engine,
manifold pressure goes down, drawing vacuum on the top connector.
The top connector ends in a chamber with a spring and a membrane under.
Vacuum draws the membrane up, and lets fuel flow from the inner tube to the
surrounding one (or vice versa?) to lower the pressure in the rail (so
that the difference in pressure between manifold and injector opening is the
same to get the same spray pattern).
When the engine is shut off, there normal atmospheric pressure from the
top, and the membrane will close, keeping the fuel rail pressure for
the next restart. A leaking membrane, or a week spring, will make
that pressure go away, making it hard to start warm or even leak
"false" fuel into the manifold.
Now, to replace it, you would make sure that the pressure in the
rail is not large to cause a splash of fuel. Connect a vacuum pump to the top connector and draw
vacuum to simulate an engine under load (but the engine is off, of course...).
Alternative, you can also unscrew the brass test-connector somewhere else on
the rail, and press the check valve there, but then you`ll have to collect the fuel
into a container.
The FPR is help by circlips, so you will have to have pliers for that.
"The FPR is help by circlips, so you will have to have pliers for that."
DO YOU USE NORMAL PLIARS / NEEDLE-NOSE OR DO YOU NEED
"SPECIAL" PLIARS ??
Well, ahemm, blush, I perhaps forgot to mention, that I never changed it myself...,
but I think, the you should be able to do it with a normal pliers for the inside snap
ring?
See, I'm mostly wrong again. It just seats in place with O-rings to seal things and a circlip to hold it. I would buy a circlip plier kit. Not that expensive from any hardware store. You can get one with multiple "heads" that allows you to use it on inner and outer clips. Worth having versus wrestling with and swearing at a normal needle nose plier.
See, I'm mostly wrong again. It just seats in place with O-rings to seal things and a circlip to hold it. I would buy a circlip plier kit. Not that expensive from any hardware store. You can get one with multiple "heads" that allows you to use it on inner and outer clips. Worth having versus wrestling with and swearing at a normal needle nose plier.
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