symptoms: really rough idle, needle jumping from 500-1200 rpm even during a slow crawl, sometime's almost dying. i replaced the egr valve, seemed to run a WEE bit better, but symptoms showed up again. ran the engine, disconnected the MAF sensor and the engine got worse, so looks like that isn't the culprit. i'm hearing a really soft electric-like sound coming from underneath the passenger-side back seat, that coincides with the reduction in rpm, kindof like an acutator trying to do something ???
i connected an obdII reader, but no codes showing up. what else can i do? i bought new spark plugs, since the car has 87k miles, and it's time for a tune-up. also changed the air filter today. i haven't changed the fuel filter yet.
Well , i still have the same symptoms even after rewiring ETA .
Do you know someone with m104 engine ,to borrow MAF sensor and see if its gonna help?
But i tell you,wires in ETA were bare,i could not trace them with Ohm meter ,to rewire,I had to do one by one,instead of just drawing diagram,and just cutting them.
Yours is 96,so check your MAF wiring first,before digging into ETA,check Jonathan Wallin posts.
the rubber hose connected to the EGR valve, should that have a strong vacuum? i notice little to no vacuum when i disconnected it with the engine running.
I use MityVac and 5 bars was enough to cause engine go nuts.
Anhtuanle ,can you do me a favor ,after i rewired my ETA ,its running constantly you turn the key to illuminate all lights,but dont start,and i hear this buzzing noise from ETA,sounds ,like motor is running all the time ,yo can hear it with hood open,I dont know if it was running like that before ,can you check your car and let me know if you hear noise coming from ETA ,I put my ear where air intake is going into the ETA.
Thanks.
the rubber hose connected to the EGR valve, should that have a strong vacuum? i notice little to no vacuum when i disconnected it with the engine running.
The vacum hose to the EGR valve comes from the EGR solenoid. The EGR is disabled at idle, so the solenoid should not provide any vacuum to the EGR valve. Please correct me if I am wrong, but that's how the EGR system works on Cadillacs. Should be same on a Benz I guess.
did you rewire YOUR ETA? or did you swap it on core exchange basis? if the throttle is replaced, you need a STAR scanner to code it to the PCM.
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If you post to ask "is the car worth the repair?", get rid of your 129/140 and go buy a 2013 Corolla... Classic Benz is not an investment for you...
Mercedes-Benz, W140 S Class S320 (AKA 300SE)
Mercedes-Benz, R129 SL Class SL500 (AKA 500SL)
Mercedes-Benz, W163 ML Class ML430 (Designo Edition)
Triumph Daytona 955i - SSSA
Former Mercs: W140 S Class 500SEL (sold) - W140 S Class S500 (sold) - W140 S Class 500SEL (sold) - W201 190E 2.3 (sold)
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