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Old 12-06-2007, 03:41 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Date registered: Nov 2006
Vehicle: 1995 S500 ex diplomatic car; 2 1/2 years, 2 MoT passes! Ponton 220S to be restored. LDV bus
Location: UK, midlands
Posts: 524
Ok, thanks for that. I've changed that one already a few months ago due to an error code and AC misbehaviour....the guage sensor must be calibrated for the "retail" trade!
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Old 12-06-2007, 07:24 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Date registered: Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gartracescort View Post
Ok, thanks for that. I've changed that one already a few months ago due to an error code and AC misbehaviour....the guage sensor must be calibrated for the "retail" trade!
I've found the laser heat sensors to be not accurate enough for the purpose of a calibration exercise like this.

As a great form of calibration of a sensor and gauge - build a simple extension wiring harness (I used 10' of 18 gauge wire with some alligator clips) so you can drop the coolant temp sensor into a mug of boiling water. Make sure you ground the sensor itself.

That will calibrate exactly at 100 degrees C.

Did this process on my '95 911 engine oil temp sensor.

From what I read, it does not seem that you have a temperature problem. However, as another data point, you can try dousing the radiator with cool water from the garden hose and see how quickly the temperature drops. This can help diagnose if a thermostat is working and the efficiency of the radiator. (water has much more specific heat than air, so it should cool to the point of closing the thermostat) That said, I don't think you need to explore this since you have a new thermostat and radiator.

A block flush is another alternative.

Doug
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