The two back door panels on my car have been removed at some stage and replaced. The problem is that the doors have not been clipped into the row of slot things on teh top of the windowsil. Is there a way to clip teh door panel in without removing the entire thing because the space in my garage is not great and I'm not confident that I can do that properly.
Also my front passanger window goes down fine but when I try to put it up it takes several goes as it rises and then retracts a short way and only after a few goes does it close. Is there an easy way to fix this problem?
I believe your window problem requires a new regulator. It's replaceable DIY.
Your door panels will have to be removed in my opinion. That lip across the top is the first bit that is set into place as you replace the door panel. If it wasn't done correctly, I don't think you'll be able to get it into place (at least not very easily). I have removed one of my door panels before, and this is what I recall. Perhaps you could get a hook tool underneath the lip and pull it up and over, but it would have to be a strong tool.
Removing the door panel is not obvious. There are a couple of hidden screws behind the wood panel containing the seat adjustment switches and one under the little plastic cover in the bottom of the arm rest. I think you'll find a description of the removal process by searching the forum, or it's on www.alldatadiy.com.
Brent is correct,I would start fresh, trying to pry up could tske the "arc" out of it and you would have the same result. It could be a regulator but it seems that it is binding and causing the safety to kick in and probably needs re-syncing. Close the window using the first dedent on the switch to fully close then hold it in position two for a few moments it should re sync.
Brent is correct,I would start fresh, trying to pry up could tske the "arc" out of it and you would have the same result. It could be a regulator but it seems that it is binding and causing the safety to kick in and probably needs re-syncing. Close the window using the first dedent on the switch to fully close then hold it in position two for a few moments it should re sync.
Sorry could you please run that by me again. I'm not quite sure what your saying. Do you mean to take the window down and then put it back up and then hold the button in place for a few secounds and then it should work?
Either Brett or Peter could be correct about this, or even (sigh) both of them. But you should first try to re-synch the window as Peter describes. The window switches have two detents (both up and down). If you have only used the auto-up second detent, you might not be aware of the first. Pushing the window switch to the first allows the window to raise only so long as you press the switch. What Peter describes (as does the owner's manual, by the way), is using the first detent to fully raise the window, then pressing the switch to the second detent once the window is up and holding it for a couple beats. If this does not re-establish the auto-up function, then you may have a more entertaining problem.
Am working on getting an owners manual as my car was an import. Have tried the windows. On the auto close there is the problem with the window getting stuck and then retracting about an inch or two. If I use the manual up option then the window goes up fine except for a small bump and noise where the autoclose fails. I can't seem to get the window to resync as you have described. The only explination I can find is that whatever drives the window is meeting with some resistence. I assume that the only way to fix this is to remove the door pannel and see. Any suggestions
Occasionally any loss in voltage to the window in question can cause that. I have to reset my all my windows two or three times a year because I disconnect my battery when I leave the USA for long periods of time. I have a problem resetting one of them every time.
It has to be fully raised in the first detent position and then fully lowered in the first detent position ( this has to repeated as many as 5 x ).
Then holding in the second detent (PRESSING HARD) position on both fully up and fully down position for more than 2 seconds( I HOLD FOR 5 SECONDS). Usually I have to repeat the process on at least one window.
I do not know if your window is meeting resisitance but at one time or another over 8 years I have had to repeat this process many times on every window. But I have never failed to solved the problem using only this method.And once properly reset they all work fine till I disconnect the battery again.
I hope this saves you time and work
Peter
Linear Mode
