Slight bumping in the rear

[Merc600sec]

pcmaher - 6/9/2005 2:31 AM

I went over one of the 2,133,908 speed bumps in this city today, and got the infamous ADS caution light. It must be tied in with that creaking strut. I can't check the code(s) until I get my scanner back from being repaired.

Hmm.. I have been getting a few of those to.. The new strutt is £475.. will get it tomorrow.. could do with some extra instructions on how you did the removal of yours..

[pcmaher]

It was a lot of fun! I can't wait until I have to do it again! OK, sarcasm over now.

1) Pull out the trunk liners to gain access to the top mounting nut.
2) Disconnect vertical acceleration sensor near top mounting nut. I did this purely to prevent a wrench slip from breaking it.
3) 17mm wrench to loosen top strut nut, and 5mm allen wrench to keep strut rod from spinning. Do not remove nut yet.
4) Bleed self level system dry. I could not break bleed fitting free on leveling valve, so I disconnected the leveling valve arm connected to body, and "fooled" the system to squat completely. First mark the exact position of the arm so you can get the same setting when attaching it. BE CAREFUL! Allow yourself room so you don't squash yourself. The nut on the connecting arm is 10mm.
5) Make sure strut remains DEpressurized.
6) Remove plastic cover from bottom of lower control arm. 4 bolts, 10mm I think.
7) Lift car from bottom of control arm. Remove wheel.
8) Place jack stand under frame (directly under rubber pad by lifting point).
9) Remove top strut mounting nut completely.
10) Disconnect hydraulic line to strut. 17mm steel line nut, and 19mm fitting on strut line. I had to destroy my steel supply line, the fitting was completely corroded. The nut would not turn as it was corroded to the line. Try VERY HARD not to destroy this line, as it is a B*TCH to replace. Soak it in a good penetrating oil. Watch out for residual pressure, oil will spray out if not depressurized!
11) Remove lower strut mounting bolt, 19mm nut and bolt head.
12) Lift lower end of strut out of control arm, and remove strut. You may need to lower the jack holding the control arm a bit to get enough clearance.
Reverse to install. Have Fun!

[Merc600sec]

interesting that we both get unidentifiable ASR lights up when the rear strut has failed.. also interested in the function of the Vertical motion sensor..and if the vibration would have had an effect.. Putting the system into default..I know that it will do that if the front wheels are out, wonder if the prob with the irregular default to hard and unknown DTC's we have both been experiencing is related...

Oh and as for the thing about the noise it makes...Usually when i drive my 600, I hear very little of the noise from the outside..and.. If I have the Sound system on... I hear nothing at all,So any internal noise is very noticable.. and anything generated by the Benz itself is extremley noticable.. rattles ,squeaks , bumps , etc..I dont expect to hear them.. so when they are there, they get my full attention.. EG.. spent hours trying to find source of rattle in rear of cabin,driving around and sitting in back seats, only to find, I had not fully retracted the rear sunblind, press button till hear clicks..problem noise goes away.. tranquility returns...Silly..But you have to experience it, before it makes sense....

[pcmaher]

I've been complaining that my ride was too firm all along, but now that I have a fault indicator, it's even firmer. I really need my scanner back. I suspect the strut was maing noise for some time. Like you, I didn't hear the noise because I always listen to music. I didn't notice the noise until it got really obnoxious.

[pcmaher]

I just remembered that my scanner won't help me at all. The system isn't digital. I put my old-fashoined code blinker on the system, and got codes;

4=Wheel Acceleration Sensor
8=Rear Axle Solenoid Valve 1
9=Rear Axle Solenoid Valve 2
17=Vehicle Load Sensor

I have to keep in mind that I'm using code legend for up to 94 years, so they may not be correctly interpreted. 1995 is not inlcuded for some reason. I know that the car does NOT have a load sensor. I cleared all the codes, and still get 8 and 9. I'm very close to buying a complete set of Bilsteins for the price of the one damn creaking strut!

[pcmaher]

I just bit the bullet and ordered a strut. I found a very good price, $400 including shipping, but I'll still lots of 'splaining to do to my wife[:(]. I'll tell her it's my anniversary present.

[pcmaher]

I spent a few hours this evening splicing all my damper valves to accessory 12 volts. The difference between sport (0 volts) and comfort (12 volts) is now "noticeably different", as it states in the ADS diagnosis data. I'm looking forward to driving it tomorrow to see how different it feels.

[Merc600sec]

pcmaher - 6/17/2005 4:48 AM

I spent a few hours this evening splicing all my damper valves to accessory 12 volts. The difference between sport (0 volts) and comfort (12 volts) is now "noticeably different", as it states in the ADS diagnosis data. I'm looking forward to driving it tomorrow to see how different it feels.

could you explain that further ?? have you rewired the circuit to the accessory ..or just taken a feed ...

[pcmaher]

Each corner has one damper valve assembly. The valve assembly contains two solenoids, each of which can be turned on and off seperately to provide 4 possible settings. Both solenoids open = comfort, and both closed = sport. There are three wires for each damper valve assy. One is a common 12 volt feed from the ADS module, and each of the other two wires are the return for each solenoid. They also return to the ADS module. I cut the 3 wires to each damper valve assembly, and tied each of the 12 volt feeds to a 12 volt source that is only active when the ignition key is in RUN position. I tied the 2 return lines together, and connected them to a good ground. I put a fuse in line with the 12 volt feed, as well as a switch in case I wanted to turn it off. All four corners are now in true comfort setting, and the difference is very noticeable. The ride was beautiful this morning. What I may still do is put an 11 ohm resistor across the leads coming from the ADS module to fool the module into thinking the dmaper valves are still hooked up to it. Right now the leads coming from the module are not terminated to anything, and I'm getting an ADS fault light. I will still try a second battery in parallel with the one in the car to see if keeping the volts above 10.5 during start has any affect on the ADS system. If it doesn't, I will try to come up with a scheme to use the ADS rocker switch on the center console as a way to select sport or comfort.

[Merc600sec]

Do you have other symptoms when the ASR light comes on? what about the gear change? and has the noise disapeared??
Pity you did not leave it hooked up before you spliced it..would like to know if the computer likes what you did...