Vehicle: SEC 600 COUPE (RHD) One of the chosen few.
Location: Leicester UK
Posts: 1,358
RE: 38 PIN DIAG PLUG
OK well the kit I bought from germany arrived..And I am NOT impressed..seems I paid $184 for a tachopro ser2 setup.. without the software.. huh.. still not tried it yet.. HOWEVER..I will switch to plan B and consider this as the alternative.. I have found a fully functional 38 pin plug it was on a service light reset tool.. quite cheap.. will now try to get a A-D -usb converter..and write a simple interface..Pics of plug enclosed..
If you've GOT to have a extension,
Have a BIG one.
Torque isn't cheap
__________________
If you've GOT to have a extension,
Have a BIG one.
f. The newer pumps with a different shut-off mechanism design and a technique for fixing leaks from damaged nozzles.
Another boarder (jvallet) posted that his S500 coupe was having driver’s door problems once again after pump replacement for the same problem 3 years ago. Jvallet found the door would work for a very short period, then stop permanently until he disconnected his battery. Then it would work again for a short time. Disconnecting the battery was serving the same purpose as removing the connector from the pump. When he pulled out his newer style pump and listened while it operated the driver’s door, there was an obvious hissing sound from a leak. He wiggled the air line connector on the output nozzle and found the noise changed. He found he could adjust the connector and minimize the leak enough to get the door to close, but the pump would run for 7-8 seconds before it reached the shut-off pressure. Although the leak was reduced, it was still audible. When he removed the air line, he found that the nozzle had a small chip broken out of it that appeared to be causing the leak. Jvallet wrapped the nozzle in what he described as water pipe sealant (I think Teflon tape) and then replaced the air line connector. When he tried the driver’s door again, it operated just fine, and the pump shut off automatically in about 2 seconds after the door latched. Problem solved. There were no more sounds of a leak.
Jvallet kindly provided this pic of the newer style pump. I have circled the output nozzles with chips in them. He reported the nozzles were particularly fragile, and he actually caused one of the chips when he was placing the cover back on the pump. On the right of the pump is the new design of the pressure shut-off mechanism. There is still a screw to adjust the shut-off pressure, but in this case, the screw is the actual electrical contact that turns the pump off.
The door is a 97 S600 rear door. Here is what silenced my very loudly snapping door check.
Briefly, the door check is a cheap piece of stamped metal bent into a rectangle tube cross section, but one side of the rectangle is open. Because it's not a complete rectangular cross section of metal, two sides of the rectangle can be bent apart resulting in an overall trapezoid cross section. I think this allows the door check ball bearings, which are spring-loaded, to come slightly out of their groove then pop back in. I think the sound is caused by the ball bearing popping back in place, but I can't confirm that since the door check is not visible when mounted in the door so you can't closely watch its action when it's mounted. The fix was simply to put the check frame into a vise and bend it back to square. My rear door check is now completely silent except for the normal muted sound of the ball bearings hitting the detents in the check.
The story in pictures:
I took these pics after we had put the check in the vise once and bent it back a little already. It was worse before these pics were taken.
A close up showing the details.
The fix. We also put the check frame in the vise long-ways for a good squeeze all the way down its length.
Another angle at the door check.
The only problem is the check is pretty much guaranteed to click and snap again since it will bend again. Nothing you can do about it except maybe spot weld a small bar or two across the frame (in non-interfering locations) to keep the frame from spreading. Or, you can just buy a new one and start fresh.
After several months, my door check has started to click quietly again. (as I expected)
My collection of DIY's I've done over the last few years. Mostly pictorial, and most for my 1998 S500. On the web page are about a dozen of the more than 100+ DIYs I've written for the model.
http://www.baxnet.net/merc/
Like yall were saying, it may be a good idea to do a DIY or an FAQ page.
My collection of DIY's I've done over the last few years. Mostly pictorial, and most for my 1998 S500. On the web page are about a dozen of the more than 100+ DIYs I've written for the model.
http://www.baxnet.net/merc/
Like yall were saying, it may be a good idea to do a DIY or an FAQ page.
Regards -
Greg
You mean make a new thread on DIY/FAQ page?Ok go for it here is it:
You guys have a great idea going. But it's a little too much for me right now. The FAQs seem to be directed towards a newbie who has a basic mechanical understanding of the basic principles of a car, not a newbie who's looking for layman tutorials. But while I go out and seek that knowledge elsewhere, I do want you guys to know that it is really helpful ya'll are doing this. I'll definately be coming back here once I understand what ya'll are talking about. :)
Also, a quick question.
I understand this forum attracts Benz owners from around the world, so would these FAQs be universal? I live in the United States. Do American Benzes have the same designz as their European counterparts? Referring to Merc600sec's first FAQ on the A/C issue, I didn't know what he was talking about when he said to press the AUTO button, or to turn the tires to white?
Linear Mode
