See pic below - notice the long central bolt does not lift out of this filter cover, which means the lid must lift straight out as the bolt is still in the filter. Also notice there's simply no room for the lid to come out - it's blocked on the top by the heads, on the left by the exhaust riser, on the right by the alternator, and on the bottom by the wheel well.

[IMG]
The manual says to "remove Central Bolt". But a schematic shows the bolt is held to the lid by a Circlip - and believe me it's not coming away from the lid either. I used a mirror and saw the little circlip holding in the bolt!
So Circlip is holding in long bolt, lid won't come out because it can't be twisted and maneuvered past the motor, and I can't change filter. I just know I'm missing something here, this has got to be too simple...