Has anyone else noticed how high the 126 sits in the front? Mine is probably that worst that I've seen. It really bugs me, and I'm wondering if anyone has an easy fix for it.
I've got KYB Gas-A-Justs and stock springs.
Has anyone else noticed how high the 126 sits in the front? Mine is probably that worst that I've seen. It really bugs me, and I'm wondering if anyone has an easy fix for it.
I've got KYB Gas-A-Justs and stock springs.
Any help would be great!
Dear Twizted, It is fairly easy to lower the suspension but I would say it is important to lower the back as well. The reason I say this is because when they set the suspension up they took into consideration the aerodynamics and if you play around with it you could risk becoming airborne, (remember even the slowest W126 is not slow). There could also be instability under braking. I have had two lowered, one is a 500SEC and I went 45m.m. at both ends and the self levelling was removed. The other is a 560SEC and I had it lowered 30 m.m. but have now decided to replace the rubbers and the springs again to take it down an overal 66m.m. and I am keeping the self levelling. There is another debate about keeping the self levelling. Personally I would say do what you want and can afford. With both set ups the handling is vastly improved with the cars carrying more speed through the bends but I have noticed a deterioration in the non-self levelling because like all normal systems they wear out whereas the self levelling system always pumps up the shocks to the pre-set level. Regards, Chris.
Has anyone else noticed how high the 126 sits in the front? Mine is probably that worst that I've seen. It really bugs me, and I'm wondering if anyone has an easy fix for it.
I've got KYB Gas-A-Justs and stock springs.
Any help would be great!
Dear Twizted, It is fairly easy to lower the suspension but I would say it is important to lower the back as well. The reason I say this is because when they set the suspension up they took into consideration the aerodynamics and if you play around with it you could risk becoming airborne, (remember even the slowest W126 is not slow). There could also be instability under braking. I have had two lowered, one is a 500SEC and I went 45m.m. at both ends and the self levelling was removed. The other is a 560SEC and I had it lowered 30 m.m. but have now decided to replace the rubbers and the springs again to take it down an overal 66m.m. and I am keeping the self levelling. There is another debate about keeping the self levelling. Personally I would say do what you want and can afford. With both set ups the handling is vastly improved with the cars carrying more speed through the bends but I have noticed a deterioration in the non-self levelling because like all normal systems they wear out whereas the self levelling system always pumps up the shocks to the pre-set level. Regards, Chris.
Before I removed the self-leveling---I ran shorter H&R springs on the front and left the rear alone---as I was camber wearing the inside of the rear tires too much(w/the rear lowering springs/self-leveling)---you can rop the rear just with the self-leveling---the car handled/looked great with a slight rake.
I had the opposite experience with the self-leveling dampening---it sucked---self-leveling worked---but the damping got worse over time, replaced the Ni "balls" and the whole nine yards---still waaay underdampened---HD Bilsteins fixed all that whn the self-leveling was history---my "theory" is that air gets into the self-leveling shocks---kills the dampeneing ability---my sation wagon that still has the self--leveling---has better dampening--but NOT even close to the HD Bilsteins---BTW--if the Bilsteins wear out as they tend to do after about 50K--new ones are $180/pair and they are cake to install
If you take a look at the top of your front springs you find that there is a rubber shim...
If you take a look at the top of your front springs you find that there is a rubber shim that runs all the way around the top of the coil.
You will notice that it has three or four small nubbs on the edge of it. If you replace these shims with "one-nubb" shims the front end will drop about 1cm.
1cm might not sound like much, but it makes a considerable difference to the appearance.
The two shims are available from your local stealership for about $15, and if you rent a coil spring compressor, they are easy and quick to install. [:)]
Re: If you take a look at the top of your front springs you find that there is a rubber shim
Quote:
If you take a look at the top of your front springs you find that there is a rubber shim that runs all the way around the top of the coil.
You will notice that it has three or four small nubbs on the edge of it. If you replace these shims with "one-nubb" shims the front end will drop about 1cm.
1cm might not sound like much, but it makes a considerable difference to the appearance.
The two shims are available from your local stealership for about $15, and if you rent a coil spring compressor, they are easy and quick to install. [:)]
Dear Sheepalert, I wondered what one-nubb meant. I am having the thinnest ones put on my 560SEC along with even lower springs, shouls give me 66m.m. lower over stock. I know that you are fairly knowledgable so what is the fellow above going, (Trackho), on about when he refers to Ni balls? As far as I can see the suspension consists of conventional springs front and rear with conventional shocks at the front but hydraulically assisted shocks at the rear no balls at all. I do not intend to be rude,b(t I do have a knack for it), I would suggest from what he describe that he is one of many who do not know how to set the system up properly being only used to fairly crude devices on offer for American muscle cars. I too am having problems setting it up but once done it offers excellent cornering, a nice firm ride and logevity. Like any system like it it needs to be checked regularly to look for leaks etc, not so hard is it?
Another thing, how does lowering the front affect the 'Camber wearing on the inside of the rear tyres'?
I would have checked the rear first personally. Regards, Chris.
Re: Re: If you take a look at the top of your front springs you find that there is a rubber sh
Quote:
Quote:
If you take a look at the top of your front springs you find that there is a rubber shim that runs all the way around the top of the coil.
You will notice that it has three or four small nubbs on the edge of it. If you replace these shims with "one-nubb" shims the front end will drop about 1cm.
1cm might not sound like much, but it makes a considerable difference to the appearance.
The two shims are available from your local stealership for about $15, and if you rent a coil spring compressor, they are easy and quick to install. [:)]
Dear Sheepalert, I wondered what one-nubb meant. I am having the thinnest ones put on my 560SEC along with even lower springs, shouls give me 66m.m. lower over stock. I know that you are fairly knowledgable so what is the fellow above going, (Trackho), on about when he refers to Ni balls? As far as I can see the suspension consists of conventional springs front and rear with conventional shocks at the front but hydraulically assisted shocks at the rear no balls at all. I do not intend to be rude,b(t I do have a knack for it), I would suggest from what he describe that he is one of many who do not know how to set the system up properly being only used to fairly crude devices on offer for American muscle cars. I too am having problems setting it up but once done it offers excellent cornering, a nice firm ride and logevity. Like any system like it it needs to be checked regularly to look for leaks etc, not so hard is it?
Another thing, how does lowering the front affect the 'Camber wearing on the inside of the rear tyres'?
I would have checked the rear first personally. Regards, Chris.
A critical part of your hydraulic damping is two balls that connect to the shock unit via a hydrualic line---they have a diaphram in them, separating Ni from the hydrualic fluid---over time, the diaphram will rupture---filling the ball with uncompressible oil--makes the car ride very stiff---get under your car, look right in front of the spare tire casing---your see one on each side---they are round plastic looking balls about 4" in dia
Chris---if you read the response correctly---you will see that i initially lowered the rear via H&R springs with the self-leveling---this loxering caused excessive camber wear on the inside of the tires--so later I put the STOCK rear springs back on----since then---I have removed the self-leveling---put non-self leveling H&R springs on it nad Bilsteins---and low and behold my rear camber waer issues are greatly improved---most lke attribuatible to having virtually NO damping in the rear from the self --leveling.
I would advise to all---go do a high speed evasive maneuver in your car, if the rear end goes apeshit trying to come around on you ---replace the self-leveling---if it doesnt--keep it---to each there own---BTW----if you think Mercedes Engineers are Demi-Gods ---think again---they all make mistakes----Need i mention why the valves burn out in the 126 cuz they are so friggin big, or the valve stems seals???
I feel the 560's problems with valve stem seals, burnt valves, and head gasket problems ar...
I feel the 560's problems with valve stem seals, burnt valves, and head gasket problems are caused by the crappy US exhaust. My headers are being made as I write this. The guys at the header place said the car will feel like a totally different car once the headers are installed. Mercedes engineers didn't exactly take much time or effort when they developed the US exhaust.
I think it is total BS to say that Mercedes is infallable in its designs. There are many things that can be greatly improved on our cars. I removed the self leveling too.
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