Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

Front end rebuild "I swore I would not do this again"

1K views 11 replies 7 participants last post by  rumb 
#1 ·
Ok, last year I put almost all new front and rear suspension parts in a R129, along with new H&R springs. At that time I swore I would never do that much hard work on a car again (63 years old and no lift). That work was tough. I even decided to sell the spring compressor since I was never going to need one again. Well guess what, I bought an SEC and I thought I would show all a picture of the work along with some comments. First, yes I bought another spring compressor, but this car is tougher to do. Getting that spring compressor down the hole in the engine compartment is tough enough but then trying to crank it up with the gas line cooler is a tough bear. Since I am replacing the lower control arm bearing I am going to try to attach the ball joint first, then jack up the lower control arm and put the bolt in the inner bearing when I am ready to put the spring back in. I can't see why that won't work instead of trying to use the spring compressor. Quite honestly I can see hours trying to fighting to get that spring compressor out of the hole. The rest is pretty straight forward so far. While apart I have decided to replace the wheel bearings also. Only thing not being replaced is the tie rod ends and the sub frame mounts. Seems funny, I started life out in kindergarten having to take a rug to school to sleep on, and now I still have a little piece of carpet about the same size that I lay on to work on the car. I will pay for this work on sore muscles, but when done, I will have an awesome car with very little left that can happen, well lets hope. I just might pay someone to replace the rear wheel bearings though. Also have to find a place willing to press on the front lower ball joint and the lower control arm bushings (lets not argue whether they are bushings or bearings):frown which might be a challenge.
At any rate for those of you that might be thinking of doing this check out my parts list, you will get a pretty good idea of the cost. So far one side has taken me 5 hours to disassemble. I think it will go back together a little faster. So plan about 15-20 hours for the job.
 

Attachments

See less See more
1
#4 ·
Been there, done that on both my 126s! What I did last time was to undo the lower ball joint and get the spindle out of the way, then with the inner end of the control arm and the strut rod still assembled, I put a jack with a wood block under the outer end of the control arm. I jack on that until it starts to lift the car, then start working with the compressor. That way there's less work for the spring compressor to do. Once I've got the spring compressed, I undo the shock, which lets the control arm drop down and gives you more room to get the compressed spring out. When I install the spring, I reverse the order, bolting up the lower ball joint last. The control arm bushings are a pain too; you basically have to hack them apart, and then installing the new ones is finicky without the MB tool.

It's not what I'd call an easy job, but it's simple enough at least. I've knocked it out in the course of a couple days, but that's tiring even for a younger guy like me. The payoff is worth it though: it'll steer and handle with precision, and unlike many newer cars, it gives you a perfectly-weighted and dampened feel that's never fatiguing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Currumbin SL
#5 ·
Well finished the other side today and some stuff easier and some well.... The spring compressor was easier to get in and get to work, but I was not ready to take out the battery box to get out the upper control arm bolt. Well at least I can clean out all the gunk under the battery box now. Also I have new sway bar bushings and I will do the passenger side but not decided on the drivers side. That side is a lot of work and I am not against work but only so much at once. Moving the fuse box and everything else is daunting. Tomorow I am trying to see if an indy will press in my ball joints and the lower control arm bushings since I chose not to deal with that. MB and their special tools, grrrr.... I also gave up trying to press in with a vice the bushings for the lower control arm supports which tie into the frame. I could however use some torque values from you all. They are:
Idler arm nut
Upper and lower ball joint nuts
Mounts that have the bar connected to the lower control arm
Upper control arm. Yes I know tighten under normal height.
Brake caliper to spindle

I also want to tell you the picture I sent was after 4 hours work. At the start I am very organized with my tools, but as I have gotten older I try not to get up a lot once I am on the ground so I make sure I have all the things I need close by. Getting up is not as easy as it used to be☹. So far I only missed ordering one part and that was the bushings for which connect the stabilizer bar at the control arm end. Had to search and found some from NAPA. All the rest at pelican or autohausz were uro parts, which I will not buy if I can help it. I also want to replace brake hoses but both pelican and autohausz have the reasonable cost ones on back order..... I just might go stainless steel instead of buying from mb since they would be about the same cost.

Next up transmission then done for the year. I need to drive this thing for a while since summer is here. Thanks for everyone's knowledge. I don't tackle a job anymore without checking this sites knowledge base. You guys are awesome. Also unfortunately the top of the R129 is giving me fits so I have to look into that as well. Take care
 
#7 ·
I only know some.

All in NM:

Idler arm nut 180
Upper and lower ball joint nuts U: L: 80
Mounts that have the bar connected to the lower control arm
Upper control arm. Yes I know tighten under normal height.
Brake caliper to spindle 115
 
#6 ·
#8 ·
Thanks Wooky, I ordered the brake lines from Deerfield. When they get here I will let you know how it works out. They are actually cheaper than Mercedes and both Pelican and Autohausz are backorderd on the off brand.

Today I thought I would take my lower control arms in and get the ball joints pressed in and the lower control arm bushings. Now understand these are bare, in that I removed the ball joints (lots of hammering) and the lower control arm bushings as well, (more hammering). So I go to the first place, they look at them even though they are a european indy and said "no we can't help you we don't have that tool". Ok so i go down the road to a second one, they said "yes we can do that but we won't since we only want to do it on the car and get the whole job", strike two. I can a third place, yes we can do that and we have the tool but it will be $300-400. Last I take it to the MB dealer. Well I am waiting for a price but my guess is they won't call. So, might have to try this on my own. I see the ball joint tool on ebay for $300 but must think someone on here has one to rent or borrow. I also screwed up kinda in that when I removed the lower control arm bushings I did not mark the orientation. Unfortunately I cleaned out the bores so really can't see the silhouette. Do any of you know the orientation? It also looks like I will have to make a press to do this but I think the end caps are a pain to press in. I remember some posts saying there has to be pressure at two points on the end caps. Well will let you know how all this transpires.
 
#10 ·

Attachments

#9 ·
That sux on the ball joints, I had an indy shop down in Macon swap mine out for 50 bucks and about 20-30 minutes. The service manager at the Macon dealer gave me this guys number, said he used to work there til he opened his own shop, all Mercedes out in the parking lot
 
#11 ·
Well things are going back together now except the subframe bushings which are proving to be a pain. I found someone that would press in the balljoints and the control arm bushings so that is taken care of. After weighing all the options I elected to pay the $270 to have it done. Not thrilled about that but getting bar stock, going to a friends house to make the correct tool using his lathe for the control arm bushings, and then having still to have the ball joints pressed on just paying the piper seemed like an easier way. So its going together now and its nice installing the new parts. I did order the braided lines From Deerfield as Wooky suggested and they came in yesterday. They look great and were about the same price as rubber ones so that is a plus. Will let you know on fitment. Next up transmission rebuild, then a alignment then driving it������������
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top