Hi all,
How sensitive are the adjustments on the EHA compared to the fuel mixture screw?
The story is important to properly explain why i ask.
Even though i've had my car fully tuned and it's running like an absolute champion with the big cams, FrankenCIS and race ignition [EZL Delete]
I've had some starting issues. Originally it was cold starting issues. I remembered that before the car had all the fancy equipment, the only way i could get it to idle with the cams was to adjust the accelerator linkage so it sits far from the stop, The fuel mixture screw was also set incredibly rich.Once i reset the linkage back to factory and used the laptop to adjust the idle control valve, she was cold starting ok.
After this the car didn't like warm starting. I've figured out the problem for this one and it's an easy fix.
After i had fuel control with FrankenCIS i was learning the ropes with software tuning and i did lots of tinkering just so i could learn. I managed to get the car running good enough but i leaned the fuel mixture screw too much and used the laptop to set the fuel requirements for driving situations. Back then i wasn't very knowledgeable on KE-JET compared to what i am now, so i thought all my starting issues were caused by other things like FRP and Accumulator[my whole fuel system is new now]
After i had Dkubus fly out to Melbourne, install his race igntiion and dyno tuned the car and went back home. I forgot that i had the fuel mixture screw infront of the fuel divider quite lean, way out of spec [i've had FrankenCIS installed on my car for well over a year and i was just chasing other culprits of starting problems]. This has lead to my starting issues. The car is fully tuned to this state, so while it runs great, it doesn't like starting
The cold starts are ok because of the Cold start injector spraying fuel. But during warm starts it takes up to 10-15 seconds of starter motor killing to start the car.
Solution:
We found a way to fix my problem without losing the fully tuned state the car is in.
I've marked around the air cleaner 8 points of a circle with green tape, so that i could write on it with a pen. I've also written down a few parameters of the cars running state in drive idle such as it's RPM-AFR-Duty Cycle-MAP/KPA while at operating temperature.
I've gradually turned the screw clockwise to richen the starting fuel mixtures, until the car would start fantastic in warm conditions. Now to bring it all back, i am going to remove the EHA and decrease the pressure on the 2mm allen key inside it until i'm back to the cars tuned running state. This saves us from dyno tuning the car again.
With all my parameters written down, this allows me to easily tune the EHA back to the cars good running state. FrankenCIS is pretty amazing for this.
I've turned the fuel mixture screw almost a full turn richer to make it start normal, is there a way of knowing from you gentlemen, how much would i need to undo the allen key on the EHA to bring it back, is it very sensitive like this??
How sensitive are the adjustments on the EHA compared to the fuel mixture screw?
The story is important to properly explain why i ask.
Even though i've had my car fully tuned and it's running like an absolute champion with the big cams, FrankenCIS and race ignition [EZL Delete]
I've had some starting issues. Originally it was cold starting issues. I remembered that before the car had all the fancy equipment, the only way i could get it to idle with the cams was to adjust the accelerator linkage so it sits far from the stop, The fuel mixture screw was also set incredibly rich.Once i reset the linkage back to factory and used the laptop to adjust the idle control valve, she was cold starting ok.
After this the car didn't like warm starting. I've figured out the problem for this one and it's an easy fix.
After i had fuel control with FrankenCIS i was learning the ropes with software tuning and i did lots of tinkering just so i could learn. I managed to get the car running good enough but i leaned the fuel mixture screw too much and used the laptop to set the fuel requirements for driving situations. Back then i wasn't very knowledgeable on KE-JET compared to what i am now, so i thought all my starting issues were caused by other things like FRP and Accumulator[my whole fuel system is new now]
After i had Dkubus fly out to Melbourne, install his race igntiion and dyno tuned the car and went back home. I forgot that i had the fuel mixture screw infront of the fuel divider quite lean, way out of spec [i've had FrankenCIS installed on my car for well over a year and i was just chasing other culprits of starting problems]. This has lead to my starting issues. The car is fully tuned to this state, so while it runs great, it doesn't like starting
The cold starts are ok because of the Cold start injector spraying fuel. But during warm starts it takes up to 10-15 seconds of starter motor killing to start the car.
Solution:
We found a way to fix my problem without losing the fully tuned state the car is in.
I've marked around the air cleaner 8 points of a circle with green tape, so that i could write on it with a pen. I've also written down a few parameters of the cars running state in drive idle such as it's RPM-AFR-Duty Cycle-MAP/KPA while at operating temperature.
I've gradually turned the screw clockwise to richen the starting fuel mixtures, until the car would start fantastic in warm conditions. Now to bring it all back, i am going to remove the EHA and decrease the pressure on the 2mm allen key inside it until i'm back to the cars tuned running state. This saves us from dyno tuning the car again.
With all my parameters written down, this allows me to easily tune the EHA back to the cars good running state. FrankenCIS is pretty amazing for this.
I've turned the fuel mixture screw almost a full turn richer to make it start normal, is there a way of knowing from you gentlemen, how much would i need to undo the allen key on the EHA to bring it back, is it very sensitive like this??