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Detail tools

2K views 24 replies 16 participants last post by  281lxm 
#1 ·
OK with Christmas on the way, family want to know what I want. So, I did a search and did not find this question adequately answered:

What tools do you prefer to buff your cars finish? Tell us your product and tool to apply that award winning shine.:bowdown:
 
#3 ·
While I'm not the expert, I picked up tips from a Porsche fanatic friend who is extremely meticulous about the shine of his car. He uses and now I use a Porter Cable 7424 for buffing, cleaning and protection. These are the steps he gave me and that I follow. It does a fabulous job by my eye and fabulous touch to the hand
1. Wash car
2. Clay Car (I use Clay Magic).. incredible result using small pieces of clay (by hand)
3. Using orbital Porter Cable 7424, I use SSR2 for minor scratches
4. Using different polishing pad and same Porter Cable, I use 4-Star Ultimate Paint Cleanser
5. Using different pad and same Porter Cable, I use 4-Star Ultimate Paint Protection
 
#4 · (Edited)
I have two buffing tools. A Cyclo dual head orbital polisher (used by the Airforce to polish aluminum planes for over 60 years) and a cheapo Harbor Freight buffer with an expensive 3m foam pad. It works great for the fast & heavy buffing as the pad does the work and doesn't seem to care if it's spinning via Harbor Freight or Porter Cable. I then finish off with the Cyclo, first using the green and then white foam polishing pads. This is my favorite finesse tool (available at Auto Geek) as it's easy on the finish and almost impossible to burn through the paint and clear. Also helpful is a 3" buffing tool that gets into the smaller areas although I haven't used it yet as I am still finishing a few panels.

I have been using Mequire's products and use the Mirror Glaze 105 with Mirror Glaze 205 polishing compound and a stack of nice micro-fiber cloths to finish off. I am very happy with this regimen and the surface looks like glass.

Before polishing I wet sanded any orange peel first starting with 1,000 grit, then 1500 and finally 2000. This was on a brand new paint job that I did personally (after 4 attempts!!!)
 
#5 ·
wash, clay, porter cable even with meguiars nxt is plenty to begin with.

goto detailersdomain or meguiars forum
very good starts
 
#23 ·
that thing won't do shit. You need a real tool like a porter cable.

From an old Harley rider...
Windex (or any spray glass cleaner) for the chrome/stainless
Pledge furniture polish (spray on) for the paint. Google it...
no. all pledge will do is fill in your scratches and swirls with silicone. Once it rains or you wash it, thats gone and you're back where you started.

With the right prep work, you could wax the car with the cheapest wax you could find at walmart and it would still look amazing.
 
#7 ·
I use my arms. And Klasse sealant to finish. Takes about a week but looks great. Good for the arms too..

Would love a buffer but £££ Slow&rusty, this thing looks good, does it really only cost that much?
 
#9 ·
i went to autogeek two years ago.

porter cable DA polisher
Some lake country pads for compounding, polish and wax

Meguiars after that. Not the stuff you find at Wally's or other counter. Order from Advance Auto online and get #105 compound and #205 polish with discount code, or get at autogeek with your polisher kit.

add claybar and spray lube/wax
add wax or finishing glaze of your choice

dont forget interior! I found the freebies you get at autogeek work well for glass, so i get DP glass polish. My seats either get leatherique or Byrons Hyde clean and Hyde food (i like the smell better of Byrons, oozes more classic)

get many microfiber towels

I use kiwi shoe/heel polish (the one with the foam applicator) to blacken my side mirror rubber as well as the plastic trim around the tail lights. Wipes off easily if you get some on the paint or lenses if it doesnt dry too long. It also lasts a good time if you park in a garage.

Mercedes cockpit cleaner for cleaning dash and wood. More Mercedes smell is a good thing.
 
#25 ·
Thanks for this site. Not only did I buy some Leatherique a bit cheaper than I found elsewhere, but I also got their special on 12 large microfiber towels free with the Leatherique purchase. My kids don't know it but they bought Dad Leatherique 32oz bottles, 12 new microfibre towels, complete line of Zaino detail with buckets for $175. Now to get inlaws to visit the Porter Cable web site :D :thumbsup:
 
#16 ·
Just use a transformer

Just use a transformer, from 240 to 120.

The big yellow ones that are used on construction sites are great if you can buy one at a Car boot sale.

Or go to Maplin they always used to have them.

I might live in San Diego now but I was born in England (Epsom) and lived there till 10 years ago.

I know where to buy transformers because I send electrical stuff to my family from time to time.
 
#19 · (Edited)
some cheap basics:

If you have time, hand wash the car every 3-5 days, weather permitting. First hose the car down including all wheels, do not wash the car in hot sunlight, Put a capful of Meguiar's gold car wash in the bucket. Apply with a clean supple soft sponge, rinse off with a garden hose. Dry with a microfiber towel, not terrycloth.

And clean the wheels each time you get gas. 5-7 extra minutes, dip a few paper towels, into the gas pump's squeegee box, soak 'em and give the wheels, at least the front ones, a quick clean, it helps keep the brake dust from getting built up and baked on.

Spritz a little Simple Green once a month on the engine, and the nooks and crannies, after cleaning out the leaves and gunk in front of the windshield and the battery tray, where a lot gets in, to keep it clean, then clean it off with a sopping wet rag; wearing disposable gloves, about once a month apply Nev-R-Dull to the airbox lid, it will really shine up well.

Leatherique is the best leather treatmentout there,, q-tips between the air vent registers, and a shop vac to keep the carpets clean, and dash protectant other than armorall for the dashboard and door materials.

Sprayway glass cleaner is used by detailers for the windows.

I hand wax. Many wax choices are good.

Every year is touch up paint time, i use the Mercedes Benz factory paint pin from the dealer for that.

Mothers back to black for the exterior rubber bits works ok.

I think the most important single thing is to wash the car as often as you can though.
 
#21 ·
I don't know if the brand is available over there, but I use a Festool Rotex Ro 150 rotary tool with foam or wool as required.
THE best electric sander-polisher bar none. Festo also makes air sanders if you are so inclined.

For cutting : 3M Fast cut. You can mix this with regular polish depending on the coarsness you require. You can use it straight, but wet thoroughly. It CAN burn your paint or even take it off completely if your mind is not on the job.

Also, wash and clay before you start working on existing paint. And non of that fancy car shampoo either, it leaves a film you'll end up having to clean off again.
 
#24 ·
Find someone who can put Opticoat 2.0 on your car and do the proper prep work. My buddy did it to my 83 300sd...I swear to you you could shave in your reflection from the paint. It was like a mirror. This was back in May, it's a "semi-permanent" coating, it only comes off with compound (we poured brake cleaner on it for giggles) and in December it still wipes clean with water and it still beads water beautifully.

We did the trunk lid too...I have some high quality pics somewhere but it's the real deal.
 
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