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Old 04-01-2012, 01:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Date registered: Apr 2012
Vehicle: 1983 W126 300SD
Location: near Shelbyville, Ky
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TurboDiesel newbie

Ok.. I bought this '83 300SD very recently. Neat car, but it's not in great shape. Depending on how things go with it I'll fix 'er up some, or if it starts being a money hole we'll make a beater out of it.

Radio is broke, seat switches are destroyed, the injectors likely need refreshing or the pump looked at (it smokes), etc... You guys might be stuck with me awhile.


My door locks cycle non-stop.. lock... unlock... lock... unlock.. until the battery goes flat. Gah. Not fun, so I unplugged the vac pump. heh

Sadly, I don't have a knack for search terms, but yes I will continue to work with that.

Does anyone have a thought or idea about the door locks?

oh - Thanks!

-CC

Last edited by Captain Caveman; 04-03-2012 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The switches for the power locks are located in each front door, and in the trunk. They're actuated by the key locks. Perhaps you can't get the key to work in one of those? I'd start there. One could be jammed up somehow.


As for smoking and things like that, the injection pumps seldom require any kind of service. Unless it was abused with some concoction of improperly heated artery clogging waste fryer oil, the pump should be fine.

Compression check the engine with it warmed up. You'll want to wear gloves! You want to see numbers in excess of 300PSI (bare minimum) for an engine that will run well. They can actually run smoothly with worse compression than that, but will never really run correctly. You don't want to see a deviation of more than 20PSI across each of the five cylinders, as a rule. Unbalance will cause poor running.

There are many filters. If you have not yet, change them. Two in the engine compartment, and a screen in the tank itself.

Inspect the entire fuel system for leaks, as air in the system can cause undesirable running. The manual primer on the lift pump is a common source of trouble if it's leaking.

After that, search 'diesel purge.' It will help you clean your injectors without removing them from the vehicle, and can actually help with the smoke.

If that doesn't work, remove the injectors and take them to a local diesel repair shop- it's typically inexpensive to have them cleaned and pop tested.

Once your fuel system is in good order, the car will run a lot better, and you can focus on the other things.
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1981 300D - drove to death
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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+1

All good stuff - on the compression tests, get the numbers for before and after valve adjustment. Leaky fuel return lines can be a source of air in the system, not to mention fuel/oil leaks. Clean airfilter - if the existing one is soaked with oil that won't help...remove the oil filler cap an see how much blowby there is when hot...
Quote:
Originally Posted by akimball442 View Post
The switches for the power locks are located in each front door, and in the trunk. They're actuated by the key locks. Perhaps you can't get the key to work in one of those? I'd start there. One could be jammed up somehow.


As for smoking and things like that, the injection pumps seldom require any kind of service. Unless it was abused with some concoction of improperly heated artery clogging waste fryer oil, the pump should be fine.

Compression check the engine with it warmed up. You'll want to wear gloves! You want to see numbers in excess of 300PSI (bare minimum) for an engine that will run well. They can actually run smoothly with worse compression than that, but will never really run correctly. You don't want to see a deviation of more than 20PSI across each of the five cylinders, as a rule. Unbalance will cause poor running.

There are many filters. If you have not yet, change them. Two in the engine compartment, and a screen in the tank itself.

Inspect the entire fuel system for leaks, as air in the system can cause undesirable running. The manual primer on the lift pump is a common source of trouble if it's leaking.

After that, search 'diesel purge.' It will help you clean your injectors without removing them from the vehicle, and can actually help with the smoke.

If that doesn't work, remove the injectors and take them to a local diesel repair shop- it's typically inexpensive to have them cleaned and pop tested.

Once your fuel system is in good order, the car will run a lot better, and you can focus on the other things.
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Old 04-02-2012, 04:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Date registered: Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akimball442 View Post
The switches for the power locks are located in each front door, and in the trunk. They're actuated by the key locks. Perhaps you can't get the key to work in one of those? I'd start there. One could be jammed up somehow.
I'll check it out in a bit. I do know all the locks to seem to auto-cycle well, albeit slowly on one door. They've gotten lots of cycles recently. lol

Quote:
As for smoking and things like that, the injection pumps seldom require any kind of service. Unless it was abused with some concoction of improperly heated artery clogging waste fryer oil, the pump should be fine.

Compression check the engine with it warmed up. You'll want to wear gloves! You want to see numbers in excess of 300PSI (bare minimum) for an engine that will run well. They can actually run smoothly with worse compression than that, but will never really run correctly. You don't want to see a deviation of more than 20PSI across each of the five cylinders, as a rule. Unbalance will cause poor running.
300 eh? Hm... I need to find my gauge. Remove the injectors and thread in there? (I should look in a manual for that procedure.)

Quote:
There are many filters. If you have not yet, change them. Two in the engine compartment, and a screen in the tank itself.
Most filters seem recently replaced. Looking new isn't being new of course, and if I purge then they'll need replacing I think.

Quote:
Inspect the entire fuel system for leaks, as air in the system can cause undesirable running. The manual primer on the lift pump is a common source of trouble if it's leaking.
late yesterday I did notice fuel seeping from in between an injector body and nozzle. That gives me good cause to service them all, yes?

Also, I noticed what appeared to be a injector return line "pulsing" between #1 and #2.. there might be a stopped up return line. (?)

Quote:
If that doesn't work, remove the injectors and take them to a local diesel repair shop- it's typically inexpensive to have them cleaned and pop tested.

Once your fuel system is in good order, the car will run a lot better, and you can focus on the other things.
Good advice, I would have probably figured out alot of this, but forgot the compression check, nor thought about the order of things you gave. Makes sense to check the cylinder pressure first JIC there's a biggie internal problem.

Makes me wonder if the numbers would change much after a diesel purge, if that cleans the cylinders out. Interesting... I like interesting ideas...

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Old 04-02-2012, 04:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 81126 View Post
All good stuff - on the compression tests, get the numbers for before and after valve adjustment. Leaky fuel return lines can be a source of air in the system, not to mention fuel/oil leaks. Clean airfilter - if the existing one is soaked with oil that won't help...remove the oil filler cap an see how much blowby there is when hot...
More good stuff, thanks!

Yes, my air filter is oily... and I see some blowby with the filler cap off.. when it's cold anyway, I didn't check it fully warmed.

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Old 04-02-2012, 05:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Renew all your rubber/braided fuel lines.
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Fresh heat shields too...

...for the serviced injectors...
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Old 04-03-2012, 09:14 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Ack. My compression gauge only goes to 300psi.

Lesse... I have a box of motorcycle specific stuff, a box of 4x4 stuff, a box of engine stuff (ODB and Ford EEC readers, *gas* compression gauge, re-ring tools, etc..), a box of machinist stuff, box of fabrication things, box of..... y'all get the picture.

I need another box. For diesel stuff. Gah.

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Old 04-04-2012, 04:43 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I appears I have two seeping injectors.. and one that actually leaks enough to pool a little fuel in the injector to nozzle threads.. it's "smell-able" with the hood closed.

I's very tempted to go through these myself, clean and freshen them up some... A reasonably mechanically inclined fellow can handle this, yes?
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:54 AM   #10 (permalink)
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First replace the braided jumper lines. When these fail, it's a small leak that runs down the injector giving you a false sense of where the leak is.

Do use new heat shields as mentioned.

Have the injectors tested, no need to replace anything that is fine.

If you do take the injectors apart, pay close attention to how it came apart, there are shim/s and a spring. They must go back in the same order and same direction.

Also, you'll need to lap the joints, make them as flat as possible so no leak can occur. There is no seal ring there.
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