Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

Seat spring replacement questions

4K views 28 replies 14 participants last post by  maxiwoofus 
#1 ·
I'm going to use my evening off to tear the passenger seat in my parts car apart and remove the bottom spring set, then reinstall it in the drivers seat of my driver, but I see no writeups, can anyone point me in the right direction? I'm sure I'll figure it out, but I'd like to avoid any dumb mistakes!

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Well, you've got a big job ahead of you and, unless you're really handy with hogrings and clips, I'd outsource.

Don't forget to get a new horsehair pad. It was about $110 from the dealer the last time I checked, but you really shouldn't go through all the effort of reupholstering a seat without replacing an old pad.
 
#4 ·
No luck finding a writeup, but I'm at the half way point, almost everything is disasembeled, a new pad isn't in the budget right now, hog rings aren't bad, but the twist in my spine from sitting in this thing renders the car useless till this is done! The electric plug on the donor seat is shot, so every time I need to adjust the bottom to access screws I get to sort through six loose wires! I will reassemble it tomorrow and drive the heck out of the car over the weekend.

I found 3 broken springs, and although I haven't driven the car since yesterday morning my spine is still twisted, any have a daughter in Chiropractic school you need to marry off?
 
#5 ·
I don't know if anybody is aware of this, but mercedessource(.com) has recently developed a spring repair kit especially for cars, since so many of their customers have asked them about the problem. From memory it's pretty cheap and will fix multiple broken springs without taking the covers off. You can also firm up the seat to suit you. Check it out since it won't be long until they fatigue out on the replacement seat. My drivers seat has a bunch of hard foam under it, which is pretty un-comfy so I think I'll get this kit when I get some time.
 
#6 ·
Once you have the bottom cushion off the motor assembly the seat it is not that hard to get the spring box out. The cover with the pad in it just clips on to the bottom of the spring box. You squeeze the cushion so that you can have a little give in the leather to get it unhooked from the bottom. The pad is a little more difficult in that it is stapled into the leather. What part do you need help with?
 
#7 ·
I got it all done, about 5 hours total including disassembly of the donor seat, being unfamiliar with seat repair it took some extra time, and I had to check and recheck locating holes and be sure everything is as it should be, it takes even longer to do it twice! The result is 90% so I can drive the car without a full spine adjustment, but as soon as I get the mechanical issues worked out of the car I'll go back and spend the $255 on a new spring set, but I want my AC blowing ice cubes first!
 
#22 ·
Thanks so much for going to the trouble of posting this.

My problem is not any broken seat springs, it is that I feel the springs in my butt because the padding has flattened and is not providing any cushion between the spring and the seat material. If you were to look at my seats, they look FACTORY NEW! They're leather and they've been covered since new. The problem is putting more padding in them
WHat has stymied me so far is that I cannot seem to get the little plastic trim part out of the seat sides, in order to reveal the two bolts per side that hold the seat to the seatback. If I could just get them out without breaking them, i would unhook and pull up the rear of the seat cushion and slip in a barrier between the seat springs and the cushion bottom. Then I plan to push in more foam. I'm sure that will do the trick, but so far i am reluctant to pull on the trim pieces for fear they will break. They attach to the seat frame by means of a round hole in the frame, through which a 4 section tube-like protrusion pushes through. The ends of the tube-like protrusion are widened so that once it passes through the hole, it snaps in to place-never to be snapped out again without breaking. I have tried WD40 and using small tools, but I cannot get it out.

Any suggestions??
 
#23 ·
Unfortunately I broke a couple of mine in getting them out being that I prefer to apply as much force as it takes to hell with the consequences. They are made to snap out and finding the right entry point to put in your screw driver in is key. They do take some force and it is important that your screw driver or whatever you are using to pry them out with is in there good right next to the circle protrusion that sticks in there. But I broke a couple with this method so... Luke, use the force!
 
#24 ·
FINALLY- I JUST DID IT-REPADDED THE SEAT CUSHION



Well, I just could not stand the feeling of the seat anymore, so I fixed it!

I did manage to get the plastic trim pieces out without breaking them, I also managed to get the seat cushion off without unbolting the seat from the car. I did it in place. I got the cushion and padding out and put a piece of Lexan over the spring tray, thereby spreading the springload. Over that, I laid out a piece of 1" foam, then a layer of soft plastic sheet. I then reached inside the seat cushion just below the seat top. There is a natural pocket there. I inserted another piece of 1" foam inside it, which I had cut to shape.
While I had the seat back off, I cut two pieces of Pool Noodle and wedged them inbetween the seat frame and the cushion at the lower back postition. Then, I put everything back.

The seat is now MUCH more comfortable to sit on and driving is more pleasant.

Oh, one more thing.... If I can do this, YOU CAN TOO !
 
#26 ·
Pool noodles are excellent, i did this, it took no time at all to whip the seats out and wow what a transformation. My drivers seat had a broken spring and general sag making it hard to corner in one direction as you sort of wanted to fall against the door. After pool noodles, firmer and no sag to one side. I also did the front edge and other side, and the passenger seat too.

HOWEVER i tried to put some in on my latest interior, which is the updated 1989 style, and the springs are different. Its really difficult to get pool noodle in there And the frame of the seat is very sharp in places so it gives you lots of little cuts trying. Thought i'd add this for reference when others come and look up the thread. Seems the noodles are only really suitable for the interiors before 1989.
 
#29 ·
I have a "73 SL and have the "S" springs. They were not broken but were poorly sagging on the driver's seat. I tried the noodle option and was overwhelmingly surprised. Before I was sitting down low like in an F1 racer. Now I my head almost hits the top (and I am not tall!). Assuming this last for a while, it is well worth the $8 (I used two noodles for 1 seat bottom).
Highly recommend...
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top