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Old 03-19-2010, 04:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Date registered: Apr 2003
Vehicle: 1990 Mercedes 560SEL
Location: Baltimore, MD
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Car fell off the jack stand, but luckily had the wheels still on.

I read in one of the earlier posts, that changing the steering damper will be easier if we can turn the wheels. So I decided to lift both sides of the car up on jack-stands. I started with the front passenger side. I used the factory-jack to lift the car and then placed the first Torin race jack-stand under the robber stopper.

Torin Aluminum Race Jack Stands — 3-Ton, Model# T43004 | Jack Stands | Northern Tool + Equipment

Lowered the car. Released the factory jack, everything looked fine. Went to the driver side. Kept the second Torin race jack-stand nearby and started lifting the car. Suddenly the car wobbled and shifted towards me. One moment I thought that my end had come. I felt the car was going to fall on me and crush me against the garage wall. But it did not. The factory jack slide more under the car and was almost at a 45 degree angle (see Pic 2). The second race jack-stand that I kept nearby the driver side had now pierced the sideskirt and was probably holding the car. I moved out and went to the passenger side. There I saw the first jack-stand had tilted. Probably the base was not broad enough. The car's front wheels were not touching the ground. Grabbed the ramps and pushed them under the precariously hanging tires. Snapped a picture quickly of both sides. There wasn't much time left, I had to act soon. Tried to remove the factory jack from the driver side but it would not come out. In addition to it, the second rack jack-stand was stuck onto the side skirt.

I had a third 2-in-1 jack/stand in the garage. I remembered DrewProf and Mramay positioning a jack stand under the frame of the car a week ago. I put this 2-in-1 jack/stand under passenger side frame of the car and raised it. Removed the tilted race jack-stand. Lowered the car, the passenger side front wheel came to a rest on the ramp's incline. Then went to the driver side and raised this side. Removed the factory-jack and the race jack-stand. Lowered this side and the both front wheels were on the slope of the ramps. Then drove the car up the ramp and stopped it.

It looks like a bad idea to use these stands and also the factory jack. I will have to come up with better strategies and better equipment. No major damages, except for the side skirt, that has been pierced. (Now I have to hunt junk yards for a side skirts). Then with the car up on ramps, I successfully changed the steering damper.
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Car fell off the jack stand, but luckily had the wheels still on.-p1010001.jpg   Car fell off the jack stand, but luckily had the wheels still on.-p1010002.jpg  
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Old 03-19-2010, 04:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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That's scary stuff. I've had several MB's fall of the factory jack and even off of a floor jack under the rubber pad under the jack points. I have floor jacks in the trunks now and will only jack with those on a frame member. Life's too short and I've already had to buy two rocker panels.

Did you have the rear wheels chocked?
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Old 03-19-2010, 04:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I jack my 123s and 126 by the cross member in the front and place the jack stands under the "frame" rails closest to the front of the car. I use the differential to jack up the rear and place the stands under the big nut near the rear jack hole.

I don't trust the factory jacks. I bought a full size 4 ton Craftsman floor jack and matching jack stands. Once you use a floor jack you'll never go back.
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Old 03-19-2010, 05:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes, the factory jack should be used only in emergency. Learned a hard lesson. These race jack-stands are no good too. And in addition to it, the rubber jack points are not a good spot to raise the car, if you are lifting the car one side at a time.

I had a 6 ton red Torin floor jack. Living in Baltimore, someone broke into my earlier garage and stole it. Now I moved to a new garage. I will probably go to Walmart and buy one of those 3 ton low profile Blackjack brand floor jacks.
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Old 03-19-2010, 05:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You should get proper jack stands. Ones with large and wide bases. With four legs.
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Old 03-19-2010, 06:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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IMO, the factory jack is worthless without wheel chocks. I drive around with some very nice steel fold-up ones MB sells (or at least, sold). I have four rubber chocks at home. If you jack up the rear of the car even with the emergency brake on you are asking for trouble.

Relying on being in park is incredibly bad. There is more than enough play in the transmission stop to make the jack slip out.
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Old 03-19-2010, 06:57 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by remotemark View Post

Did you have the rear wheels chocked?
I did have four chocks at the rear wheels. You can see the reflection from one of them in Pic 2.
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Old 03-19-2010, 07:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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First of all, I'm glad that you came out of this in one piece, now go and get yourself a proper trolley jack and proper jack stands. Harbor Freight will sell you a set for around $15 for the jack stands and about $80 for a decent jack.

Place the jack stands under the frame rails and they should be sturdy.
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Old 03-19-2010, 11:36 PM   #9 (permalink)
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That's the shittiest looking jack stand I ever saw. I wouldn't trust it to hold up my bicycle let alone a 1.5 ton car.


I mean what the it's painted red like it's some vehicle accessory. GET PROPER JACKSTANDS as Cascade said. . I'd like to meet the engineer who designed that piece of shit. Completely unethical.
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Old 03-20-2010, 05:55 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Ramesh, that was crazy, you majored in physics for God sake! I am going to ask your university to revoke your degree and put you in remedial Jack Stand 101. If it's taught by Helga at JHU I will join you; she's very much a hands on teacher and knows how to spread the force equally for proper distribution cause I am not into the pancake scene LOL
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