Speedometer Calibration Dakota SGI-5 - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#11 (permalink) Old 02-02-2011, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bondavi View Post
Ordered one! If you wanted to do an AMG 190MPH unit, now is the time.

Have you found the GPS calibration method to be the most accurate, time-tested? I have Dynolicious for the iPhone, if thats good enough...
How do you like the Dynolicious app? I was thinking about getting it.

Mike

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#12 (permalink) Old 02-03-2011, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bondavi View Post
Have you found the GPS calibration method to be the most accurate, time-tested? I have Dynolicious for the iPhone, if thats good enough...
It has been rock solid on both the coupe and sedan. I am not familiar with the dynolicious.
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#13 (permalink) Old 02-03-2011, 01:27 PM
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It hit me this morning - the odo calibration. Do the speedo and odo signals run the same or independent of each other?

Reason I ask is because if assuming a standard 500's 160MPH gauge is changed with a new face to the 190 unit, the Dakota adjusts the speedo needle calibration. But the standard 500's odometer (assuming) would still spin at the same rate as the old 160mph configuration?
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#14 (permalink) Old 02-03-2011, 05:58 PM
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#15 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 10:09 PM
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Here's a helpful speedo removal and wiring diagram pdf compliments of el rojo:
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File Type: pdf 54-250 R R and R Instrument Cluster.pdf (144.2 KB, 102 views)
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#16 (permalink) Old 02-12-2011, 09:07 AM
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Wanted to elaborate
Quote:
Cut and tap into the #5 white wire.
The white #5 signal source should be connected to SGI5 "INPUT" and the SGI5 "OUTPUT 1" should be connected to white #5 speedo connector input.
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#17 (permalink) Old 02-12-2011, 04:59 PM
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Henric i have one of these Dakota's to fit to my speedo.
Perhaps with the above clarification can you draw and post a basic updated wiring diagram
Thanks
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#18 (permalink) Old 02-12-2011, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by KRH View Post
Henric i have one of these Dakota's to fit to my speedo.
Perhaps with the above clarification can you draw and post a basic updated wiring diagram
Thanks
...
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#19 (permalink) Old 02-12-2011, 06:18 PM
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a large ground grouping is located just left of the steering column atop of the steering column mount.
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#20 (permalink) Old 02-14-2011, 06:44 AM
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I just successfully installed my Dakota Digital SGI-5 module this weekend. I used Henric's write-up and pictures as my guide. Here are my additional comments:

1. Ground Wire - Once you remove the cluster, you will see two 10mm bolts with a myriad of brown ground wires attached to each (must be 2 dozen or so). I used a forked spade connector on my ground wire. I attached the forked spade connector to a length of black wire (in the US, black is ground), loosened the bolt with a 10mm socket just enough to slip the forked connector under the bolt head and re-tightened the bolt. You do not want to remove this bolt - as getting all those existing brown leads back on would be a PITA.

2. Speed Signal Wires - refer to Henric's picture of the white #5 wire in the 6-pin speedo connector bundle. Slice open the sticky bundle tape (about 3 inches or 75mm or so) and - take a breath - cut the white wire. Remove insulation from both ends of the cut white wire as in Henric's pic. Now, the newly cut white wire end coming FROM the guts of the car (call this Source) will be wired into the SGI Input hole. Attach a female quick connector to the Source white wire and a male connector to the length of wire to the SGI. Next, the other end of the newly cut white wire (call this Speedo), attach a male connector to this end. Attach a female connector to a length of wire from the SGI OUT 1. Once you have done this, you will note that the #5 newly cut white wire has one male and one female connector and the two wires to/from the SGI just the opposite. I did this in case I ever wanted to remove the SGI - all I had to do to return the white wire to its original state was to connect the male and female ends. Note - you need to slip a short length of heat shrink tubing on each end of the white wire - enough to cover the male/female connectors so they won't short against each other. You could use electrical tape, but heat shrink tubing is far better and easier to use. I used a fireplace butane lighter to reach into the cluster cavity to heat the tubing.

3. Power Wire - Henric used a wire from the same 6 pin bundle to tap into for the Accessory Power wire. I used the black w/ red stripe wire from the outside temperature 4 pin connector (Pin #1 wire). Either one, you have to cut the wire and remove insulation from each end. For this connection, I used a butt or barrel connector. I simply twisted the end of a length of wire to one end of the newly cut wire and placed all three ends (the two newly cut ends plus the length of wire) into the butt connector and crimped it down. Again, you must add a piece of heat shrink tube BEFORE you crimp the butt connector. The Power wire goes to the Power hole in the SGI. Note that I used my multi-meter to test the Power 12v before trying the SGI to make sure I was getting 12v (after turning on the key).

See pics below of the needed items, along with a small knife to remove insulation and a crimping tool to crimp the wire connectors.

Once everything is connected, re-connect the cluster (PITA to reach around the cluster to put the various connections back in place). Note that I wrote down every item detached from the back of the cluster so I would get it right - especially the light bulbs into the idiot light holes. Loosely replace the cluster with the SGI dangling out of the cluster cavity and take the car for a drive. If you wired everything correctly, the speedo needle and all other gauge items will work correctly. Go get the unused GPS from your wife's car and use it to calibrate the SGI.

My first drive after connecting the SGI did not go well. I experienced erratic speedo needle movements (jumped up/down). I re-seated the ground spade (twisted it a little under the 10mm bolt head) and that seemed to have been what was needed. Note that when you start the engine, the SGI should display a solid green LED (car not moving). Once you get past 10 mph or so, the green LED will start to blink. This is correct and means you have wired it correctly. Once at speed, press the up/down buttons to match the GPS speed. It takes a while to get it exact. It's hard to hold a constant speed on the gas pedal. You can't use your Cruise Control! If you try the CC, as soon as you press the up/down button, the CC quits!

Hope this helps.

Al
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Al Lydon
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Last edited by alydon; 02-14-2011 at 05:19 PM.
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