In the above pics you see it from the opposite side and you can see the set pin. Take a pair of pliers and compress the peened end and take a punch and punch out the set pin. BE CAREFUL and do NOT break the plastic tabs or widen them too much. If there are more skilled metalsmiths that have a better way, pls pipe in here. So go slowly and be careful here.

Punch it through far enough to get the pivot point of the handle out.

And here after the handle it out:

The next pin that needs to come off is the counterweight pivot pin. Take a small punch and carefully punch out tha pin that is poking out here:

From this side:

From the top:

See that Allen setscrew? That will be next. You see I used a small Phillips Jewlers screwdriver to punch out the pin. Hammer should not be needed, just hand pressure.

Next, remove that Allen setscrew and the ring latch will come off:

 

Okay so the next thing to come off is the handle counterweight as seen on the left:

It is held in by the two plastic tabs and you need to separate the two tabs GENTLY and remove the weight.

And you can see it removed:

The next thing that needs to be removed is the black plastic "Carrier" that hold the lock and handle counterweight. It is held in by four tabs that have to be gently pried open. I got lucky and none broke. That is because this seems in good shape and I have done this before. Be careful with all of these tabs though:

Here it is lifting off:

And the lock from the inside:

And the bare handle guard:

That chrome ring pops right out abd you can have it buffed out for a brighter look,

That completes the dis-assembly part. Tomorrow I will re-assemble it and post that result. Re-assembly is pretty much the reverse of this, but I will document it anyway.

 

on my 89 SEC the vac pump is controlled by microswitches in the actuators, im not even sure if i remember seeing a wire going to the handle mechanism

 

Okay, well if you have a stock setup, then it is wired as I described.

 

Thank you Mclare!!
This is perfect, I'm going to go try it tomorrow and report back!

 

Welcome....

 

this has also been linked to the DIY sticky

 

Part II - The Reassembly

Okay, sorry it took a couple of extra days, but I have not been in good spirits of late.

So here is all of the parts layed out for you to see:

I did not clean or paint the parts as they are surplus at this point.

Closeup of the little bits:

First thing is to insert the trim ring for the lock in from the back:

Be careful as it is keyed:

From the front:

Next is the lock "Tray" if you will. It snaps in, in four spots and has a front retaining screw. CAREFULLY line up the four tabs over the four slots and insert tab "A" into slot "B".. LOL

Like this:

The back:

Screw holddown:

Now push down and lock it in place:

 

Now for the handle. Insert the front part in and line it up with the hinge pin: (Sorry they are blurry)

And insert the hinge pin

And compress it CAREFULLY in:

Till it rams home:

Now you want to tamp the end flat will a ball/peen hammer or a punch. I chose to leave it in case I have to take this apart again.

 

Next we have to reattach the opener latch to the handle.

This is a little tricky at first. Okay see how the handle has a higher left side than right? And there is a hole?

Now see the opener latch sitting on top of it? and see on the latch how it has a recess?:

Now, see this screw? There is a lip underneath.

You want to slide that in under and use the Allen to hold it and then screw it into the plastic handle.

Screw it down to about this position:

So that the chrome is just lower than the black plastic by 2MM

Next the spring/counterweight needs to go on. This is a little tricky too. Notice the orientation of the weight. Round down.

So you see the position here: that pin goes in the hole and there is a rounded side it goes in. You will see it:

Get one side in first:

Then poop the other in:

 

Last Step

Next you want to line up the holes on the C/W. There is a lot of play in it and it moves back and forth. You can see how it needs to go here:

Now line up the other side:

And push it through:

And in the open position:

Here is what the set screw should be at:

Next put on the new (or old) rubber gasket and make sure it's in the groove. Insert it from the front first:

And that's it! Re-install it on your vehicle! Enjoy!

I hope this helps you as I like mine with the painted look and do not EVER want mask lines. I painted my door handles a semi-gloss paint and they "Feel" better in my hand. More smoother, less rough. They also stand out more and give it a more modern look than those old and faded ones.

 

Did you paint yourself or did you have it done? I am looking to do the same to my SEC. I'd love to do it myself but I'm not to savvy at this kind of thing, so I might have to get a body shop to do it. If you had a recommendation of anyone in SoCal?

 

I had it painted after I took them apart myself. LA is a big place, where are you? I live up in Lancaster so yes, I know people up here that can paint them for you. There are a lot of members here in LA that I am sure could point you to reputable BS's in the greater LA area.

 

Santa Monica. I'm thinking of doing the door handles, bumpers, side panels and maybe the headlight wipers. Any idea of cost and someone reputable would be great.

 

My guy probably $4-500.00. Down there ??? Mark and Henric know a good BS down there and I am sure the valley has several.

 

not sure who Mark and Henric are ? Sorry new to the forum

 

Sorry.

Mark is Mapearso and Henric is 48HP

There are other So Cal members that I am sure know decent body shops.

 

One of the reasons I alway use our forum names is it makes it easy for people to seek us out with questions via PM's. Another reason is to help keep a little bit of anonymity when we get a few loose screws on the forum....

 

Here are the pictures for this thread: Door_Handles.zip

 

nice thank you.

 

No I haven't yet. I was gonna wait till I get the whole car done, which will be a few more years when the oxidization gets the best of it...
Until then I will need the grey bumper done if he does that ?

 

I just went the easy way and got a keyless entry system that works with our vacuum operated system. Search the forums if this is for you, there are several threads about it. I went with the 'Aussie Plus', found one on eBay reasonably, and it works great, but I know that there are others out there that work as well. Who wants to fumble with a key in the dark/cold/wet, etc.? Not me!

Rob

 

Here are the pics once again: Door Handles

 

Downloaded and SAVED! Thanks again! Dealer wants a whopping 500+ for a new piece! however I found a new master key and a new reserve flat key for the car in the Owners manual leather book. I tried it and works flawlessly! I guess my key was worn. It should hold me until I figure out if a locksmith can retool the cylinder again, swap the barrel from the passenger side to the driver side or if last option buy the new assembly ( I would rather set the 500 aside for the DKUBUS bellhousing instead, new pics of the Holden style T56 bolting onto the M117 looks nice).

 

I can swap the barrels. Or have a local locksmith do it for a LOT less than the $500.00.

I had my LS retool my center console and glovebox locks to my keys.

PM me.

 

So Osai_Dude noticed that my door handles were painted, not only the bulging covers (Which Bruno Sacco to this day detests) were painted, but also the handles themselves I had re-painted and I also sanded down and filled in those ugly "ridges". I also wanted a "Semi-Matte" finish versus the ugly stock "Flat" black.

So the car was apart and the handles were off while I was doing my restoration so I decided to tackle it. I took the handles off the '86 Euro and experiments on those. So for this exercise I went down to the yards and picked up two handles to dissect.

Most of you have seen these from the outside plenty, so here is the underside:

And here is a closeup of the business end:

I will not get into why they designed it the way they did, they did and it is. Let's start with the simple stuff. The wire protruding out is for the door locks. When the key is inserted and turned in the lock or unlock position, a voltage either +12VDC or -12VDC is pulsed to the vacuum pump in the trunk and that pump kicks on in either vacuum or pressure to the vacuum lines going to the vacuum elements to the doors and gas door. Make sure that this wire is protected and in good condition.

You can see the door handle coming up through the middle and the Allen set screw holding it in. There is a counter weight on the right side and you see the round ring around the door lock and the little tab that protrudes? That is what trips the door latch to open the door.

How does the door lock? Glad you asked. The long shaft that sticks up on the left, it is what locks and unlocks the handle. It sticks into the "Element" and when rotated, it allows or prevents the handle from moving that tab, opening the latch. How is it rotated? Well the shaft fits into the Element and when the vacuum pump moves the element into the lock position, it rotates that shaft to the lock position and prevents it from tripping the latch when the handle is moved. It is a complex system, being an Electro/Mechanical/vaccum operated system.

So to recap: When you turn the key, an electrical signal fires the pump which moves all of the "elements" to either lock or unlock. The elements move the lock shafts which allow or deny you to engage the latches.

In the case of the gas door, the element moves a pin which latches the door locked or open. If you reach in the trunk on the pass side, you will feel the element and you can pull it open with your hand.

And so ends the theory, on to the dis-assembly:

So in this pic:

You see a large Phillips screw. That is what locks it to the door panel. The set pin on the left is what needs to come out.

Next remove the rubber gasket that protects the handle on the door panel:

These gaskets should be replaced because they get hard and brittle. They are like $7.00 each I think.

 

More pics.

 

10 More.