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Old 12-03-2010, 02:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fixbrokenwindow View Post
I have manufactured a replacement part (Patent Pending) machined from solid Delrin that eliminates the need for drilling out the pin. After door panel removal, It takes an average person 10 minutes to complete the repair!!! $115.99 each. Email Dcallevato@sbcglobal.net for further information and payment/shipping. Satisfaction Guaranteed!
First post and that is also for selling in high amount.

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Old 12-03-2010, 03:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fixbrokenwindow View Post
I have manufactured a replacement part (Patent Pending) machined from solid Delrin that eliminates the need for drilling out the pin. After door panel removal, It takes an average person 10 minutes to complete the repair!!! $115.99 each. Email Dcallevato@sbcglobal.net for further information and payment/shipping. Satisfaction Guaranteed!
Um, you could buy a whole new window regulator for that price with the sliding jaw already attached.
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Old 12-03-2010, 04:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by foolio2 View Post
Um, you could buy a whole new window regulator for that price with the sliding jaw already attached.
lol yeh at the dealership to boot, or that and a whole box of other cool stuff from a junkyard at that price.

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Old 12-03-2010, 04:57 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Easy to replace

Quote:
Originally Posted by BILLSONG View Post
I remember drilling the old "rivet" or whatever it called out and use a nut, washer and bolt in place of the metal center part
Once you have the regulator out, replacing this piece takes about 15 min.
You can drill,grind ,or sand the broken piece out of the regulator assy.I use a small side grinder
Now find a small socket that fits the "unpeened" pin side , I think its a 10mm
using the socket to provide the backing on a flat work bench so you don't break the new part
using a hammer to "peen" the pin into the regulator assy,,, Make sure that you place the new part on the same side of the assy that the old one came off.
sequence on top of workbench , first the socket then the new part with the socket supporting the metal pin then the regulator assy with the metal pin facing up ,,now using a hammer , gently beat on the pin until it is flatten againist the regulator assy ,,, reassemble in door.
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Old 12-04-2010, 01:14 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kaskae View Post
Once you have the regulator out, replacing this piece takes about 15 min.
You can drill,grind ,or sand the broken piece out of the regulator assy.I use a small side grinder
Now find a small socket that fits the "unpeened" pin side , I think its a 10mm
using the socket to provide the backing on a flat work bench so you don't break the new part
using a hammer to "peen" the pin into the regulator assy,,, Make sure that you place the new part on the same side of the assy that the old one came off.
sequence on top of workbench , first the socket then the new part with the socket supporting the metal pin then the regulator assy with the metal pin facing up ,,now using a hammer , gently beat on the pin until it is flatten againist the regulator assy ,,, reassemble in door.
+1 This is how I did mine. Just whack it with a hammer as described - done.
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Old 09-10-2011, 01:36 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Made my own guide

My 89 420SEL just had this problem.

I went to Home Depot and bought some nylon table/chair leg ends, some countersink type hex key bolts (#10 - 32 x 1"), nuts (3/8" flat and self-locking), and washers. Drilled out the nylon leg end and removed the nail, countersunk with a larger bit and sunk the bolt through it until the head was flush with the surface, then nutted it down tight. Next, I added a few washers as a spacer.

Used a Dremel to grind off the flat side of the stud from the guide, then attached my new assembly. Another washer and a self-locking nut complete the new installation.

Greased up the gear teeth, the slider, and the guide, and installed it. Total time (not counting the trip to the store) about 20 minutes. Total cost, including a can of marine wheel bearing grease, just over $25, and I have enough pieces to do all 8 windows on 2 cars.

Not sure how everyone else does it, but in removing the window motor, I found it easiest to de-pin the switch plug (took a picture of the wire arrangement with my cellphone camera - Ain't technology great?) and remove it all as an assembly. (Had to disconnect the glass guide. No big deal, unless you don't!)

I expect in another 20 years, it might need replacing again.


Last edited by kf6eml; 09-10-2011 at 02:18 AM.
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:43 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kf6eml View Post
My 89 420SEL just had this problem.

I went to Home Depot and bought some nylon table/chair leg ends, some countersink type hex key bolts (#10 - 32 x 1"), nuts (3/8" flat and self-locking), and washers. Drilled out the nylon leg end and removed the nail, countersunk with a larger bit and sunk the bolt through it until the head was flush with the surface, then nutted it down tight. Next, I added a few washers as a spacer.

Used a Dremel to grind off the flat side of the stud from the guide, then attached my new assembly. Another washer and a self-locking nut complete the new installation.

Greased up the gear teeth, the slider, and the guide, and installed it. Total time (not counting the trip to the store) about 20 minutes. Total cost, including a can of marine wheel bearing grease, just over $25, and I have enough pieces to do all 8 windows on 2 cars.

Not sure how everyone else does it, but in removing the window motor, I found it easiest to de-pin the switch plug (took a picture of the wire arrangement with my cellphone camera - Ain't technology great?) and remove it all as an assembly. (Had to disconnect the glass guide. No big deal, unless you don't!)

I expect in another 20 years, it might need replacing again.

Final assembly picture will be great help.
It happened to my w124 a month back and put used one in there from ebay but still kept old part to fix someday.

Now it happened to driver's window on my w126.
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Old 09-10-2011, 02:34 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Okay, I took pictures of another installation.

Start by grinding off the knob stud:


The window guide is about 1 1/8" wide, so your slider should be this size. I used a round piece of nylon, but you can use anything. The original sliders are rectangular. These are 1 1/8" in diameter and 1/4" thick. Not sure exactly what that is in metric. The hole doesn't have to be perfectly centered. These aren't going to roll. Countersink so the bolt head does not protrude.


Next, use a nut to hold the bolt tight. This keeps the bolt head from working out to contact the metal guide on the bottom of the window.


The hole on the arm will be slightly large. Not a problem. Better than being slightly too small! Three washers on top of the nut add enough space to give the correct clearance for the guide.


Save yourself the embarrassment of displaying your mistakes for all the internet to see.... Put the knob on the correct side of the arm, add a washer and a self-locking nut. You don't want it to work loose.


It should look like this, except that yours should be on the correct side of the arm.


A little grease on the moving parts. You shouldn't need to lubricate nylon, but it can't hurt, and these old metal parts with their corrosion from being near the beach would probably wear even good plastic. You'll notice that the slider is now correctly positioned.
Also, the bolt is slightly too long. You can probably use a 3/4" or 13/16" and eliminate all the loose threads. It doesn't interfere with anything in the door, but I don't really like having things sticking out of moving parts any more than necessary.


So far, it works great. Maybe in a few years I'll remember to come back and give an update.
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Old 09-11-2011, 08:26 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Just replaced the passenger side front window motor. The old one was bent and the gear teeth ground off.

The one from my wrecked car had (Guess what?) a broken slider. I replaced it with one of these homemade jobs, and it went right in.

Unfortunately someone had been in here before, and for some reason had drilled out the holes in the door where the mounting studs come through for mounting. A couple washers took care of it fair enough, but what are some people thinking?

A bit of advice on this job: Take off the speaker. The extra 3 minutes is worth the easy access. Also, don't let the window bottom out. There is a rail guide in the bottom slider of the window, and it will come off the rail. A roll of towels or a baseball or something in the bottom will keep the window from going down too far; just be sure you can get it out after the assembly is installed.

Last edited by kf6eml; 09-11-2011 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:24 AM   #20 (permalink)
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thanks for the little tutorial, should prove useful to me soon.
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