DIY - Instrument Gauge Face Color Change and Chrome Ring Installation

[mclare]

Okay, several of you have asked either how I did the White faces, or how to take the cluster apart.



Well it is very easy. It takes about an hour, maybe two if you really take your time.

My friend Kurt, "aroundthescenes" was the first BW member I ever contacted and met. At that time I lived on the west side of town and Kurt lived like 5 min away. Now I live across town, and am about 20 min away, but still very close.

Kurt really liked my Instrument cluster with the white gauges and rings and he also liked the shifter and chrome surround there too, so we did those months ago.

Finally time to do the cluster and a great time to do a DIY too since we have had a couple of related threads.

So here it is:

PLEASE WAIT UNTIL I AM FINISHED WITH THE POST TO COMMENT.....

[mclare]

Okay, so here we are with the cluster that we are going to modify:



This is an '86 560 SEC V-8 so your may look different.

So how you start is by taking your LSD (Little Screwdriver) and slip it into the lower sides of the cluster and GENTLY pry it out.

[Correction Re Ross: I use a LSD on mine because it pops right out "Zippered" like Charlie's however Ross is correct, use or make the hook tools to get it out if you have no obstructions like Kurt did with the cap in place. Thx to 420SE for the correction!]




Kurt's has a dash cover on until we tear out the interior and replace it with the new factory cover he has. This type of cover though may need to be pried up to get the cluster out.

Okay so here is a pic of the back before you dis-connect it. (looking fm pass side)



And once the cluster is out:



The big round connector on the left os for the 4 way gauge and may be a little difficult to pry off. Go slowly and use your LSD if you have to...

Here is the cluster out and the rings from Perfomance Products:



There are ones available, but these are high quality and metal. Who knows what the eBay ones are.

Here are the rings and the decals. The Decals are very high quality and well made and he makes them in many colors. (Yes, Pink DG!)



Here is the back of the cluster and the Speedometer in particular,



Okay, here is the outside temp gauge and it's two screws:



Remove those two screws and take out the TEMP Gauge.

The light with the wire attached is for the Water level. CAREFULLY remove it and pull to it's side.

[mclare]

Okay, remove the bottom two screws above the temp gauge and then these two top screws:



And then GENTLY remove the Speedo:



Be careful of these light seperators, they fall out easily. Learn how they go back in... Clean or replace all the lamps as they come out...



Here is the speedo removed:



Next remove the three screws that hold the 4 gauge in. There are two (Or SHOULD BE) screws with washers (Make sure those two go back there as they are there because that side is a PCB and delicate. and there is one inside of the Rheostat where you see my finger.



And remove the 4 gauge:




Next: You want to take clear and closeup pics of the positions of your needles just in case.

[mclare]

Okay, now on that side is the trip odo reset and it is a round stud with two flat spots that fit into the cluster side:





Next take off the two screws for the Tacho/Clock side:



Put the clock in either the 9:00 o'clock or 3:00 O'Clock position. The tacho needle will not have to come off, nor the speedo needle so don not get froggy here.



Now, here is the empty cluster:




At this point if you are going to do further mods by cracking open your cluster case, do them here and that will be outside the scope of this project and covered elsewhere.

Next, slip in the outer rings into the center opening and work in from the inside.

[mclare]

And pressing in the center ring:



You REALLY want to snug those down. Make sure they are pressed all the way in. Sometimes they look in, but are cock-eyed. Make sure that the chrome is all the way down. This is most important with the center ring.





Here is the two outside rings in:



Okay, now some of you are saying "But Michael, I want the Chrome Rings, but not those ugly white gauges. How would my stock gauge faces look with them?"

Glad you asked, Here:



You DO NOT need to remove the speedo needle and I did not for this. So here is the preferred method:

Stick a fork under the hub and GENTLY pry up:



The pin (BE CAREFUL ! ! !))



And Needle: (Pins and needles?)



You DO NOT have to remove the face, but I like to give it a good cleaning on the sppedo since it is so large and noticable... Remove the two screwsa with a Jewelers SD:

[mclare]

Which reveals the Speedo/Odo Unit. Now is a good time to replace those worn Odo Gears if needed:



Next, get an empty spray bottle and fill it with warm water with a couple of drops of Dwan dish soap. Mix it well:



Clean the face thoroughly. I build Museum quality plastic models so I have all of the proper decal tools and these are simple dental pics that I use for placing tiny decals, Pick out the cutouts for the speedo





Next, (And you can't really tell from the pics) spray both the face and the decal (Which is sticky and you will wet it, but it WILL stick wet) very liberally with the soapy water, and apply the decal. It will slide into place and line up the holes:



Just line it up and there you have it:



Remount ir:



And reassemble it:



One Done! Two to go!



A couple of tips here. Paint the needles any color you choose. I use either Testors Enamel or Tamiya Acrylic. You can even use Fluorescent paints and get wild with the lamps.. Your Choice.

[mclare]

I have to go out and run a couple of errands so I will post the rest of the pics now and fill in the instructions later today:

[mclare]

[mclare]

That's it until I re-install it later today.....

I will post the text later...

[AzimuthAviation]

You'll see where the plastic has browned where the gauge illumination lamps are. Clean those areas and pieces then shoot them with white paint meant for plastic. I used Krylon white plastic paint since I wasn't concerned with wear issues. It will bring a "new light" to your instrument panel for five bucks! I've actually turned down my panel lights at night at times they are now so bright using the stock wattage bulbs now that those housing are white again.