Was away for a week and came back to find my daughter bailing water out of her sec from the latest storm.
Looks like the regulator is broken .I found the sticky for the doorpanel removal but I cant find anything on the window regulator. I did see somewhere there is a plastic part that goes bad. any ideas?
thanks also any body recomend a supplier for parts?
thanks
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It isn't that hard to fix the window after the door panel is off. But make sure when you go to remove the door panel that you lift straight up do not pull outwards. The plastic parts are cheap but if it is a front door then it might have chewed the teeth off the regulator. If you do not have the plastic part just put the window up and put the arm where the plastic piece broke. Just leave up till you get the part in.
Was away for a week and came back to find my daughter bailing water out of her sec from the latest storm.
Looks like the regulator is broken .I found the sticky for the doorpanel removal but I cant find anything on the window regulator. I did see somewhere there is a plastic part that goes bad. any ideas?
thanks also any body recomend a supplier for parts?
thanks
A couple years back my drivers window would not roll up. I could get it down by pushing it by hand and using the window switch, but when I tried to roll it up by using the switch, the motor would work, but I would keep hearing a "pop" every 3 seconds and the window would not move up. Turns out the center bolt hole in the inner door that the regulator bolts to ripped out. Had to fashion washers to repair the hole in the inner door bolt hole. My passenger side stopped working about 6 months later with simular symptems but it turned out that the regulater arm broke and had to replace the entire regulater unit to the tune of $281.00 for the part from the dealer. Both work perfectly now.
Like it was mentioned, once the interior door panel is off, you will be able to see what the problem is with the window.
Just had the same problem myself. If the regulator is fine it most likely is the regulator bushing (slider jaw). I got mine online and is a cheap and easy fix. In the meantime I got the window to stay up while I waited for the part by pressing the old plastic slider jaw together with the regulator arm in the track and rolled the window up. Be aware that the door panel has to be pulled up like was mentioned before, not straight out like I did. I ended up breaking a few plastic tabs off the door panel! Good luck!
Well I got it apart. The door panel removal was not exactly as I've seen on the stickys but I got it apart without breaking anything. The problem is the large round gear that the motor pinion gear engages is stripped. Does any one know if just the gear is available or do I need to get a whole regulator?
I took the whole assembly out but I can't see any plastic jaw that everyone talks about. I rotated the gear so that the window will close and open half way. If I could get the gear I could rebuild it.
Ok the plastic part that we all are talking about it in the rail just under the window glass. Their is a metal arm that fits in this rail. The rail can be roughly about 3 to 6 inches. That is where the Regulator arm will go and the plastic part goes in the rail and the arm clips into the plastic guide . When you pull the panel off depending on where the wind is if you push the window up roughly to where you can see the bottom of the glass then you will see the area that I am talking about. I just had to fix my rear window in mine. I hope this helps.
FYI, I used an 18" wooden ruler with a hole drilled in the ends to hold up my window glass while I was fixing the mechanism. I took a good quality (hardwood) wooden ruler and drilled a hole in each end about 1/2" from the end. One end got the 10mm bolt into the bottom of the window frame and the other got ty-wrapped to a hole in the metal ridge in the bottom of the door. That kept the glass up for a week or so while I figured out how to aluminum solder the regulator back together (which worked and is still in there several years later). YMMV
__________________
Blasphemous Mike
US '87 560SEC with Euro headlights, clear markers, H&Rs, 18x8.5, ATE slotted rotors with semi-metallics, BergWerks FGS, 3.07 Limited Slip.
In progress - FrankenBenz SEC: GM LS6 5.7L engine with custom 4L60E 4-spd overdrive transmission, GM rack and pinion.
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
Friends don't let friends drive rice burners
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