Vehicle: Mercedes 1982 380 SL, 1988 560 SEL Navy Blue
Location: Canada
Posts: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew_falky
the front passenger window in my SD suddenly stopped working. (actually, it was after parking it for the winter).
1. it's not the fuse
2. it's not the switch
3. the motor makes no noise when switch is on
thanks
From my short experience, having changes the motor on the 380 SL last year as well as the regulator on the 560 SEL, few things comes in my mind:
1-Swithes - probably you interchanged it and it was working
2- Corrosion on the motor, if you have no motor noise, current is not going any more. For this, dismantle the inside door panel, and check the motor giving it 12 Volts directly to the wires (Youll have to cut and splice later)
3- Good thing, before checking the motor itself it to chek if you have 12 V at the wires in the door compartment, will probably have also to splice the wires. But these motors are quitting without any notices.... at least in my case.
Could have been condensation inside the motor during winter.. Even in garaged....
__________________
Martin Richer
New Brunswick Canada
1982 380 SL Grey
1988 560 SEL Navy Blue
2002 Mazda Tribute V6 4X4
1999 Yamaha Roadstar 1600 cc
From my short experience, having changes the motor on the 380 SL last year as well as the regulator on the 560 SEL, few things comes in my mind:
1-Swithes - probably you interchanged it and it was working
2- Corrosion on the motor, if you have no motor noise, current is not going any more. For this, dismantle the inside door panel, and check the motor giving it 12 Volts directly to the wires (Youll have to cut and splice later)
3- Good thing, before checking the motor itself it to chek if you have 12 V at the wires in the door compartment, will probably have also to splice the wires. But these motors are quitting without any notices.... at least in my case.
Could have been condensation inside the motor during winter.. Even in garaged....
Yes, I switched out the switch and saw it was working.
How would I check the voltage at the wires in the door compartment without first taking off the trim panel? Splicing into the wires seems like more work. At that point it would seem to be just as easy to run a jumper cable from the battery and see if I can test the motor directly.
Vehicle: 1982 380SE AMG euro (parted out) , 1983 300SD, 1984 500SEL AMG euro
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,245
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew_falky
Yes, I switched out the switch and saw it was working.
How would I check the voltage at the wires in the door compartment without first taking off the trim panel? Splicing into the wires seems like more work. At that point it would seem to be just as easy to run a jumper cable from the battery and see if I can test the motor directly.
Andrew
IIRC, you can unplug the motor inside the door and check for 12v at the plug for the motor. You can check for voltage at the switch but that's starting on the wrong end of the t-shooting logic but easier to get to. You can get the window up by removing the motor and using a screwdriver. Check out my post: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126...ghlight=window
Also, they make needle point probes for multimeters that you can push through the insulation on wires. Much better alternative than cutting and splicing wires.
IIRC, you can unplug the motor inside the door and check for 12v at the plug for the motor. You can check for voltage at the switch but that's starting on the wrong end of the t-shooting logic but easier to get to. You can get the window up by removing the motor and using a screwdriver. Check out my post: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126...ghlight=window
Also, they make needle point probes for multimeters that you can push through the insulation on wires. Much better alternative than cutting and splicing wires.
Azimuth,
Thanks, very helpful post. I've got even bigger problems though. See my new posting today.
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