If all else fail, you can consider using a nut-cracker, if it is possible to fit one on. And if the bolt/stud is damaged in the process, you would have to get it replace, but that should not be too expensive.
The w126 uses bolts to fasten the wheel. Not nuts. Unless you are talking about something entirely different, in which case I'm not sure how self mutilation is going to help the problem.
If it was mine, I'd take to the corner gas station and give them a ten spot to have them put their BIG impact gun on that bolt. Tighten first, then loosen. There are some 3/4" guns out there that will provide more torque than you can. It's the jarring from the gun that will do the most to get it out.
Just make sure they have a good/new 17mm socket.
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Blasphemous Mike
US '87 560SEC with Euro headlights, clear markers, H&Rs, 18x8.5, ATE slotted rotors with semi-metallics, BergWerks FGS, 3.07 Limited Slip.
In progress - FrankenBenz SEC: GM LS6 5.7L engine with custom 4L60E 4-spd overdrive transmission, GM rack and pinion.
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
I had last year a similar situation. Bolts were so tight that even impact guns could not get them off or broke the long bolts. This was all due to some service center idiot tightening them with his impact gun on max torque. Out of 20 bolts, 8 sheared off. Only solution was to "core" them out with a 29mm metal hole saw bit. Needless to say, all rims were destroyed.
I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with any type of "destroy the wheel" theory.
There is no reason, not in 100million years ever, never, ever to even think about dreaming of considering destroying a wheel in the case of the lug bolt not coming off.
Centre punch, drill 1/2" into the head with a 1/8" drill, remove. Drill to the same depth with a 1/4", remove. Drill to the same depth with a 3/8". Remove. Drill to the same depth with a 1/2" etc, etc, until the head of the bolt is no longer existant. Worst case scenario, even if the drill is not square in all directions, you're only going to the depth of the shoulder on the head of the bolt, therefore not running a risk of breaking into the hub flange or wheel itself.
Last edited by Benz Prodigy : 05-14-2008 at 08:36 PM.
Okay i went to my local hardware store and they dont have this PB Blaster what is the next best thing.
I really not sure how everyone is expecting you to get any oil on the threads. I don't think the threads are exposed. Certainly not from the front. From the rear I would think the dust shield and parking brake block access to the threads.
The threads are like 1" away from any hope of receiving any type of lubrication from a shot of penetrating oil, yes, but the goal here was to attempt to allow the oil to 'creep' between the contact surface of the bolt head and the wheel counterbore, which is where a good portion of the friction that's holding the bolt in is located.
Any reduction in friction here and it may have been/be enough to crack the bolt free.
I've had to stand on my breaker bar, usually 18", or add a short section of pipe on the end, stand on the end and bounce up and down. The bolt will groan and creak, but it will loosen. Don't jump on the end of the bar but bounce up and down. If the bolt breaks, you will have to drill out the remaining section of the bolt until the conical section is gone or can be removed. Then the wheel can be removed and the remaining bolt section heated and removed using an extractor or vice grips or some other method.
When I was overhauling my front end, the lower control arm camber adjustment bolt was so tight I had to use the breaker bar and pipe combo. It finally loosened. I weigh 200 lbs so a 2' lever would make 400 ft-lbs. Way too tight.
You can't use PBlaster on the threads because the wheel bolts have a conical raised section on the shaft to center the bolt in the wheel. If you can't loosen it, you can always call the place that seriously overtightened the bolt and talk to them. Approach them rationally and in a calm manner and don't start yelling. If then doesn't work, the stub axle will have to come out.
That's a big job, loosen the brake caliper, remove the half shaft, undo the locking 'nut' which takes a special tool, and the inner bearing, and the long bolt from the outside, extract the short shaft and then you can get to the back side of the bolt to either lube it of use a torch.
Someone posted directions on replacing the bearings, so the procedure is the same.
I WAS ABLE TO GET IT OFF!!!! With little bit of a time i heard a crack i thought i lost the grove on the top but i kept going and it was able to come out, I loaded it with lots and lots of grease it was some rust i found on the inside. THANKS TO YOU ALL FOR ALL YOUR HELP IT IS VERY MUCH APPRECIATED.
I'm glad you got it off but you only need a small amount of oil or grease on the threads. Lots and lots of grease will work it's way to your parking brake, which is inside the top hat portion of the brake disc. Please remove as much of the grease as possible. A small amount of antisieze would work too.
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