Do It Yourself (DIY) repair thread and wheel and tyre thread

[Teutone]

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126...switch+diagram

[flavio81]

(This is old but i was told to repost it)

Vacuum Diagram for any euro standard (no cat) M116/117 engine in a W126 [1982-1984]
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126...r+500+sec+here

[flavio81]

Now this is new, and will be useful for many of us here:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126...libration.html

I explain how to test and calibrate/adjust the warm up regulator so you can set the cold and warm control pressure. Step by step. I'm also including a table with the factory settings for most versions of WUR.

[markusfmeyer]

First Gear Start Modules that can be used (from euro pre-1986 V8 models):

[Teutone]

Thanks Marcus.
Last year MB USA had only one or two of the wiring harnesses for the FGS left.
On Euro cars, the FGS was usually connected to a switch next to the gear indicator of the shifter to start the car in either second, or first gear (see picture below). The other picture shows the harness removed from a donor car.

A 'First Gear Start' forum search will get more info.

[flavio81]

Originally Posted by Teutone

A 'First Gear Start' forum search will get more info.

Here is the summarized info i found on this forum about FGS: (Sorry, i forgot the name of the author, but let's thank him.) I have corrected some things that were not accurate.
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Use the factory FGS module, part no. 002 545 4132.

You can find it in all pre 09/85 V8's.

Easy to wire up, only 4 connections - but it only works on V8 tranny's.
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On the pre 09/85 w126 cars, the module is located under the dash, right next to the steering column.

Black box, approx 4 x 3 inches.

All you need to do is remove the white wire from pin 2 on this module and splice it to +12V Hot with ignition.

Easy as that - now you'll have first gear start.

That wire on Pin 2 is only +12V when you engage the B switch...as you may know, moving selector down to B and then pulling away gives you 1st gear start.
[Flavio's comment: Pin 2 comes from the shift lever's starter lockout switch; it's energized whenever the lever is either on 3,2,or B.]
So if you give this wire +12V at all times with ignition on, you will always pull away in 1st gear, without having to move lever into B. Just leave it in D and you will always start in 1st.

The MB module automatically cuts power to the B switch at 7mph, at which point 2nd gear engages.

It's a perfect module - costs approx $150 from dealership, but easy to find in a wrecking yard.....or under the dash if you have an early w126 !

Pre 09/85's will not start off in first gear unless this module is activated by giving a permanent +12V supply to pin 2.
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Yes, it will shift into 2nd at 7mph if the module is working.

If you hold throttle down hard, then shift will occur at higher revs. But under 'normal' driving, withthe FGS module active, shift to 2nd will be very quick, at 7mph.
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There are 6 pins on the module but only 4 are utilised.

Pin 2 has a white wire on it - make that wire live using an ignition live with pos II or pos III....you can take this from the fuse box, or easier, there is one coming onto the kickdown switch....just splice into there.


Here is how to wire it up :

Pin 1 - wire to kickdown wire which is live +12V when switch is activated
Pin 2 - ignition live
[Flavio's comment: Pin 2 comes from the shift lever's starter lockout switch; it's energized whenever the lever is either on 3,2,or B.]
Pin 3 - blank
Pin 4 - Ground
Pin 5 - wire from back of speedometer to give speed pulse
Pin 6 - blank

talbir
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Pick up the ignition live from the kickdown switch for pin 2 off the module.

Then run wire from pin 1 to the other wire on the module which becomes live only when kickdown switch is depressed.
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Why do you make the assumption that FGS is for competing at the lights ????

You say you can only get FGS in you car if you floor it, i.e. kickdown on standstill. Well you are wrong. When you kickdown on standstill, the car actually starts in 2nd and will kickdown to first.

FGS is where the transmission is actually IDLING in 1st at standstill and therefore pulls away in 1st. The only way to achieve this is either shift down to 'B' or install a FGS module.

[Flavio's comment: Actually if you move the lever from "D" to "3", it will start in first gear too, because it will also energyze the "first gear start" pin on the FGS module.]

And with the FGS module installed, you will idle and move off in 1st gear - you don't have to floor it. No more how gently pull away, you'll be moving off in 1st.

Moreover it's less stressful on the engine/transmission if it is moving away in first. MB only forced 2nd gear starts for emissions reasons.

From 1995 onwards, all MB's were FGS from the factory. Some models were given FGS before then, but EVERY MB modl since 95 has FGS. It's how a car should be!!!!

Like I said you really got to try FGS to understand it and enjoy it.
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Absolutely no harm with FGS - I've had it in my w126 SEC's and w124 500E for as long as I've had the cars. It's just a different animal with FGS.

Shifting down to B and then pulling away will tell you exactly what FGS is all about. The benefit of the FGS module is that there is no manual intervention required - and neither do you have to floor it. Just put the selector in D and get on with it - the car will ALWAYS pull away in 1st, whether you floor it or whether you throttle gently as a feather....that's the beauty of FGS via the module. You are making full use of the available power without any fuss.

And the module is the only way to do it, as it automatically puts the tranny in 2nd gear at 7pmh (unless you have full throttle, in which case it will change over at redline as required).

As mentioned earlier, look under the dash of a pre 09/85 V8 and you'll see it there.
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YEs, pin 2 on the module is the +12V supply - so you can run this through any stock MB switch and fit the switch in the coin tray.

I have run it through an OEM w126 ASR switch on my SEC's, so you can revert back to 2nd gear start when you like. The w126 ASR is a momentary contact switch, so you have to run it through a latching relay. The way I have wired it is that default is 1st gear start - you press the switch to revert to 2nd gear when required. But next time you start the car, it will automatically be in 1st gear start. Same functionality as your rear window defroster switch...
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[zukamb]

Tutone and Flavio, thanks for the comprehensive advice. My car is a Gen I euro; 117961 engine type. There are no air distribution tubes for the injectors; no EGR valve in the manifold; no rear control valve at the back of the engine (that I can see); no idle mixture adjusting screw like the one present on my Gen II euro 420SE EFI with full pollution controls. The Oxygen sensors are present one at each exhaust manifold down pipe and connected to a two prong wire on each side. The spark plug wires are BERU and look recent and all are firing properly when pulled off engine running showing strong spark. Instead of the idle adjustment screw (Gen II) I see a large size half a dollar size cap with a notch on one side atop what I think is the fuel pressure regulator or idle valve and which I think is adjustable with some special tool. One hose with an inline electric valve of some sort goes to the fuel distributor. When I got the car the plug in connector to this valve was disconnected; if I connect it; the idle speed goes really bad. This car starts at the first click every morning and cold start valve seems working alright; idles fairly smooth with a noticeable small shake and starts good when warm.

[86560sec]

If you're quick with soldering, this shouldn't take more than about 10 minutes a side (you can use quick connectors instead, but that might take longer). This assumes there is a wire coming from your new socket. If not, solder one on to it (about 8 or so inches long).

1. Find a couple of tail-light sockets. I found mine on eBay ($11.99 + $5 shipping).

2. Remove tail-light assemblies from inside the trunk (two tabs that twist to release each assembly).

3. Unplug the plugs (two plugs on driver's side, one on passenger side). Everything else is the same on both sides.

4. Remove screw from outlet under big plug, remove plug.

5. Pop off the metal strip with all the sockets in it (three squeeze-type clips, and yes, they are most likely brittle).

6. From the back side, push the extra socket into the empty hole at the end of the strip (toward the middle of the car). There's a tab on the socket that fits in a long and skinny rectangular hole in the strip.

7. Route the wire (careful to keep it away from where the strip snaps back onto the plastic housing) along the back, through to front to existing brake light (the one with the reflector behind it).

8. Solder new wire to existing brake-light connection on front (or use quick connector, making sure the connector won't be in the way when it's reassembled.

9. Snap the metal strip back into the black plastic piece.

10. Reattach the plugs (don't forget the screw on the big plugs).

11. Install a new bulb.

12. Install whole assembly back into trunk.

13. Have someone push on your brake pedal while you stand behind the car so you can see the formerly dead red sections closest to your license plate light up.

(Instructions are more detailed than photo, so these numbers do not correspond to numbers on photo, which is the driver's side assembly.)

[MBZ300CD]

Just thought I'd post the original instructions for those interested. Additionally, buying the kit IS cheaper/easier than - your time + gas + $ for sockets + lights + wires (correct color & length) + connectors.

[mckellyb]

I replaced 'just' the tie-rod ends, the center link, and the steering damper...after a one mile test drive...wow. I merely thought the steering in this car was slop-free before. This is incredible!

It wasn't all that difficult, though to remove the center link, I asked my wife to run to the auto parts place which loans tools to get me a 'pickle fork'. I just couldn't get a decent smack on the center link's 'bolts', and after working on it for about 10 minutes, I knew a pickle fork was in order.

Using said tool, it took, literally, two minutes to remove both sides of the center link. The non-angled side goes toward the joint. If you're planning on re-using parts, beware, if you use a joint remover (pickle fork), it usually destroys the grease boot, so the part is hosed afterward.

I have a tad of toe-out now, probably due to less slop all-around, but the car is going directly to the alignment shop then the tire joint for new shoes. I may tweak it a bit, just so I feel better, but it's so nice to be able to brake firmly and not have to 'chase' the front-end's movements, albeit small ones, with odd steering inputs.

Looking at the guide rod bushings, it appears they can be backed out from behind...but that's too easy.... I can again hear them clunking, which was gone before thanks to other play in other front-end parts.

To do this job requires a 13mm socket & box end wrench (for the clamps on the tie-rod ends), 17mm (outer tie-rod end nuts), and 19mm sockets (inner tie-rod ends) (a 3/4" interchanges, BTW) and a 17mm wrench which is small enough to hold the top side of the steering damper bolts. The open-ended Mercedes wrench which I have from my wife's '81 123 diesel was perfectly sized. Oh, and a mini-sledgehammer is nice to have, too, to remove the tie-rod ends. To remove the center link, you'll have to rent/borrow/get a loaner joint seperator. A digital caliper is nice to have, so you can measure the distance the new ends need to be threaded into the tie-rod's to match where the old ones were, but it's not 100% necessary. Also, the tie-rod ends which have the smaller bolts threading on to the flexible joint's stud are on the steering spindle end of the tie-rods. The 19mm nut ones attach to the steering link from the steering box and the slave steering arm which is in front of the passenger's feet (LHD). Each will go into the hole, but I'm matching up what was OEM. The inner ones appear to be a little bit beefier.

One last thing, the tie-rods have the wheel-end joint going up through the bottom of the mount, the steering linkage end's tie-rod joint goes in through the top. It'll make sense when you look at it. Make certain you get them to be 'neutrally' aimed so they're not under stress all the time and the boot doesn't get stretched/pinched for no reason.

I took my time, and including cleaning up, test drive, and going from closed tool box to closed tool box, it was about 3.5 hours. Although, a solid 45 minutes of this was dead time waiting for a joint separator. I needed the break, anyway, so.... Plus, I'd made mistakes in aligning the tie-rod ends to attach properly to the steering spindle and the linkage, so I had to redo it. No giant deal, but it likely wasted about 20 minutes.