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Do It Yourself (DIY) repair thread and wheel and tyre thread

537K views 293 replies 103 participants last post by  ianrandom 
#1 ·
If you can link to or post repairs, please do so in this thread. I will be "polishing up" the thread later to make it easy to follow.
 
#52 ·
Power window switch repair

I have a problem in that the driver's side window switch stopped working...but fortunately only when trying to put the window down. Up worked. Whew.

Playing with it a bit had the window go down twice, but it was difficult to get the switch to go far enough. I was as if something was under the rocker preventing it from going all the way back. It definitely wasn't clicking into position like I've become accustomed to, even though I've had the car only about a month.

Thankfully, these switches can be removed, disassembled, and then one can see how they could be repaired should certain things happen. This particular problem is not repairable, at least by me. Some plastic has aged to the point it's starting to disintegrate, so I'll have to find a few in a junkyard to make sure I have extras for the future.

I'm unsure how to post pictures inline with text on this forum, so I'll have to give all the info, first, then attach the pics. Well, it appears to me they must first be stored somewhere, and I've yet to put these in the online storage joint I've always been getting around to using....

Picture one. This is the switch with the rocker part gently pried off the actuator part of the switch using a little-bitty flathead screwdriver attachment on a Leatherman multi-tool. Yes, there are springs and ball bearings inside, but unless you're wild with it, they're not likely going anywhere. The springs actually require attention to remove though the bearings just sit there, so make certain the rocker part is facing 'up' when you pull them apart...and be gentle with this old plastic!

Make a note of which way makes the window go 'up'. I found, on mine, there is a dot of paint on the end of the switch which you rock the lever towards to make the window go down. The driver's switch had a red dot, the passenger's side was red. No clue as to what the rear window switches had.

Picture two is merely a different angle in case you have parts drop out. There are only the ball bearings, the case halves, and two U-shaped pieces of metal. Six separate pieces which aren't really connected once the halves are apart. I dropped a bearing while outside, and found it, thankfully, but it wasn't like I felt the need for surgical-quality workspace to delve into this. My lap worked nicely.

Picture three is a close-up of the functional part of the switch. The bearings live in the very bottom of the two metal U's which run the length of the switch. These U-shaped contacts/bearing races merely sit in the housing and are not retained by anything, really. They require the slightest bit of wiggling to get them out. Orientation does not appear to make a difference, as I had mine out a dozen times trying to shape them to work more effectively, and it feels/works the same. FWIW, I wound up putting them back to what seemed to be the original shape after comparing them with a working switch's innards.

Picture four. Just in case you get it scattered, this is what mine looked like in profile after opening the case, yet not messing with anything. Sorry it's blurry, but I couldn't get it to focus on anything but my fingers. Old digital camera and all.

It looks like the bulb is easily replacable, and I'd put an LED in there in a heartbeat if the incandescent burns out, but this isn't the issue right now, so I'm gonna wait.

Picture five reveals the reason my switch doesn't work trying to put the window down. The left-hand plastic sleeve for the spring, which press on the ball bearings while they ride in the metal contacts, has started to break. The right one is still intact, but the left one has a little bit broken off what is the 'rear' when it is mounted in the switch housing. This part does not appear repairable, though, if you had to, you could just replace the rocker part of the switch, the part you touch when using it.

It took me a bit to figure out when you rock the switch to the rear, as its mounted, the plastic sleeves and springs go forward, pushing the U-shaped contacts down and completing the connection between the contacts in the bottom half of the housing. This is why mine doesn't work, the left sleeve doesn't hold the bearing well enough to rock the contact down, so it never completes the connection. I might be able to put some melted plastic in place to hold it all together, but I doubt it'd hold more than a few weeks.

As you can see, I still have torn up fingertips after the marathon digging out of my car from the desert, done literally by hand. Long-term healing is a good way of the human body making the human mind pay attention.

When putting the case halves back together, orient it as it is in the console, rocker switch part 'up', center the rocker to be 'neutral', hold the whole thing level, then gently but firmly snap the halves together.

I wound up taking a second one apart, as I didn't see the damage to the spring sleeve when I had the non-working one apart. After exchanging parts between the two, it was obvious what was wrong. I then bent the metal contacts/bearing races, trying to make it so the switch would still work, and while I managed to make it better, it still didn't feel anywhere close to normal, so I resigned myself to having a non-working driver's window 'till I can get to the junkyard. If you needed to use the window daily, you could just change switches with a rear or the passenger's window, as they're all identical.
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__________________
Kelly B
'89 420 SEL, almost bone stock, 141K miles

Wife's ride: '02 Lexus RX300 AWD, all the options but a hitch, 60K miles

'99 Fleetwood Bounder Diesel 39Z diesel pusher motorhome, which has visited 10 Canadian provinces and 49 states under our ownership, 117K miles and many modifications
 
#53 ·
Window switch repair

Here is a great link on window (or other) switch repair. Not sure whether these are MB switches, but they look pretty close. Scroll down for pics.
P.S. IMO, mini plier or tweezer, a small magnet, and perhaps electronic grease to keep stuff in place at re assembly, might come in handy.
P.S I think the MB switch has little steel bearings on springs, easy to lose.
Electric Window Troubleshooting
 
#54 ·
Error Code Reader and Fault code list

Hey folks-- I came across this while trying to backtrack my search from a year ago for a fault code list. I'm not going to vouch for accuracy, but this sure looks good. The original link is

Comcast

and here's the actual text...


Error Code Reader and Reset Tool - (incomplete - 10/1/02)

Overview

On my 1989 560 SEC (non-Cal) I have a problem with my SRS light constantly on. I searched the MBCoupes archives and found an entry by Randy D. (See Below). Randy, explains how to read the codes at Pin-6 of the X92 connector and want the codes mean. He states that the tool that was used to read the codes was simply an LED and to clear the codes you must bridge pins 1-6. From this description I put together a simple tool for a couple of bucks that reads out the error codes and allows you to reset them. The tools is simply an LED, a push button switch (normally open) and a pair of banana plugs (red/black).

Required Parts

1 - 12v LED assembly (Radio Shack# 276-270)
1pair - Banana Plugs (red/black) (Radio Shack# 474-721C)
1 - Push Button Normally Open (Radio Shack)
22 gauge wire, solder, tie wraps, heat-shrink tubing, solder iron (all avail at RS)

Disclaimer

The following procedure was done on my 1989 560 SEC and I can't say if this procedure will apply to other years and/or models. This procedure worked for me and anyone else should use this writeup only as a reference.
ALSO VERY IMPORTANT, the SRS system is a very complicated and potentially dangerous system for DYI 'r to be working on and should be maintained by qualified MB technicians.

Assembly

This tool is rather simple to assemble and requires very basic soldering skills. See electrical diagram in Fig-1. The parts required for the tool were available at Radio Shack. It's important to note that the LED has to be able to handle 12VDC, RS has panel mount LED assy that operates on 12v that worked nicely. If you're unable to find this part and you're using a regular LED, you'll have to add a resistor in series with that LED, since LED's normally work on 2-3VCD and would probably pop at 12v.

Simply solder two 4 inch lengths of 22 gauge insolated wire to the normally open leg and common leg of a push button switch.
Slide heat shrink over the bare legs of the switch and heat. The slide a larger piece of shrink over the button portion of the switch, the legs and wire, then shrink. This is just to keep any from shorting out while in use and to help protect the connections. If heat shrink isn't available, use electrical tape.
Strip back a 1/4 inch of insulation from the ends of the 2 LED leads and the 2 switch leads.
Twist bare ends of the black LED lead and the common switch lead together and insert into the Black banana plug as per the plug directions. (For the plugs I used, unscrew the plastic end and slide over the wire. Unscrew the metal ring from the end of the plug, insert wire, pull bare end through hole, bend wire over and screw metal ring back on. Now the wire is attached to the plug, then screw plastic end back on.)
Repeat step-4 with the red lead and the normally open lead of the switch and the red banana plug.
Tie wrap the wires and LED assy as seen in Fig-2. To make a neat job of it..
Operation - SRS

The black plug gets plugged into connector #1 of the X92 connected and (to test SRS) the red plug gets plugged into connector #6 of X92. Using my tool I followed Randy's procedure to diagnose my problem as follows.

With the ignition key on in #1 position and the SRS Indicator constantly lit, the LED was rapidly flashing.
I pressed the push button for a 2 seconds and released, the LED came on for a second and then flashed 3 times at slower rate. Then went back to rapid flashing. This indicated (according to Randy's chart) that the Driver air bag (slip rings or brushes) was a problem.
I repeated step 2 and it flashed 8 times. This indicated that there was Voltage supply problem.
I repeated step 2 again and it flashed 10 times - Control Unit has been activated. (This one sounds like bad news.)
I repeated step 2 and it went back to 3 flashes. So there was a total of 3 problems stored in my SRS memory. Not knowing when these errors were stored I decided to erase them and see if they would come back. Here again, I followed Randy's procedure.
I went back to step-2 to read the first code, immediately after the 3 flashes I held the button for 6 seconds to clear the stored code. Then repeated this procedure for the remaining 2 stored codes. When I was done codes 3 and 8 were erased, but as Randy stated, 10 would not erase. (I guess that means I got to go to MB).
Operation - CIS-E (not complete)

This tester can also be used to read/reset the errors code from the fuel injection system's CIS controller similar to the SRS system. The black plug gets plugged into connector #1 of the X92 connected and (to test CIS) the red plug gets plugged into connector #3 of X92. Fault code table.

Operation - Automatic Climate Control (not complete)

This tester can also be used to read/reset the errors code from the Automatic Climate Control System similar to the SRS system. The black plug gets plugged into connector #1 of the X92 connected and (to test Auto-Climate System) the red plug gets plugged into connector #7 of X92.


Reading SRS Codes (copied from MBCoupes archive, email sent by Randy D.)
Hi Wes,
You have to clear the codes to make the light go out. Once the system stores a code, the light stays on. I think I tried to explain this a long time ago, but on that model you can access the codes and clear them without the special tool. When the first "self-diagnosing" system came out, they gave us an LED to use for diagnosis. It was a very nice unit made by Hirschmann with two pins of the correct diameter and holes for a jumper wire. The LED is
connected between terminals #1 and #6 on the diagnostic connector (black plastic piece near the battery on 124 and 126 cars).
To access codes the terminals are bridged for "AT LEAST TWO SECONDS, BUT NOT MORE THAN FOUR". Then you repeat the process for remaining codes. If the code repeats there is only one stored. Otherwise they start repeating again when you've read all
of them. The various faults reveal themselves as "blinks" as follows:
1) No codes stored
2) Control unit
3) Driver air bag (slip rings or brushes)
4) not used
5) Driver set belt buckle
6) Passenger seat belt buckle
7) not used
8) Voltage supply
9) Warning lamp defective
10) Control unit has been activated-The only code that can't be erased.
(#10 can occur even if the air bag didn't go off under certain conditions)
To erase the codes, with the fault displayed...wait two seconds, then the terminals (#1 and #6) must be bridged for "AT LEAST SIX SECONDS, BUT NO MORE THAN EIGHT SECONDS". Each code must be erased individually. When you're done, go back and check again for codes...it should read "1" blink.
Regards,
Randy D.


CIS-E Fault detection Table (Cal?)
Flashes Fault
1 No fault in System
2 Throttle valve switch, full throttle contact
3 Coolant temperature sensor
4 Air flow sensor potentiometer
5 O2 Sensor
6 Not assigned
7 TD Signal
8 Altitude correction sensor
9 Electrohydraulic actuator (EHA)
10 Throttle valve switch, Idle contact
11 Not assigned
12 Exhaust gas recirculation
 

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#56 ·
Warm up regulator Calibration / Control Pressure Calibration

Now this is new, and will be useful for many of us here:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w12...372083-warm-up-regulator-wur-calibration.html

I explain how to test and calibrate/adjust the warm up regulator so you can set the cold and warm control pressure. Step by step. I'm also including a table with the factory settings for most versions of WUR.
 
#58 ·
Thanks Marcus.
Last year MB USA had only one or two of the wiring harnesses for the FGS left.
On Euro cars, the FGS was ofter connected to the child safety window switch lock, or the switch next to the gear indicator of the shifter W or S (winter or standard) to start the car in either second, or first gear (see picture below). The other picture shows the harness removed from a donor car.

A 'First Gear Start' forum search will get more info.
 

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#59 · (Edited)
First Gear Start

A 'First Gear Start' forum search will get more info.
Here is the summarized info i found on this forum about FGS: (Sorry, i forgot the name of the author, but let's thank him.) I have corrected some things that were not accurate.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Use the factory FGS module, part no. 002 545 4132.

You can find it in all pre 09/85 V8's.

Easy to wire up, only 4 connections - but it only works on V8 tranny's.
----------
On the pre 09/85 w126 cars, the module is located under the dash, right next to the steering column.

Black box, approx 4 x 3 inches.

All you need to do is remove the white wire from pin 2 on this module and splice it to +12V Hot with ignition.

Easy as that - now you'll have first gear start.

That wire on Pin 2 is only +12V when you engage the B switch...as you may know, moving selector down to B and then pulling away gives you 1st gear start.
[Flavio's comment: Pin 2 comes from the shift lever's starter lockout switch; it's energized whenever the lever is either on 3,2,or B.]
So if you give this wire +12V at all times with ignition on, you will always pull away in 1st gear, without having to move lever into B. Just leave it in D and you will always start in 1st.

The MB module automatically cuts power to the B switch at 7mph, at which point 2nd gear engages.

It's a perfect module - costs approx $150 from dealership, but easy to find in a wrecking yard.....or under the dash if you have an early w126 !

Pre 09/85's will not start off in first gear unless this module is activated by giving a permanent +12V supply to pin 2.
--------------
Yes, it will shift into 2nd at 7mph if the module is working.

If you hold throttle down hard, then shift will occur at higher revs. But under 'normal' driving, withthe FGS module active, shift to 2nd will be very quick, at 7mph.
------------------
There are 6 pins on the module but only 4 are utilised.

Pin 2 has a white wire on it - make that wire live using an ignition live with pos II or pos III....you can take this from the fuse box, or easier, there is one coming onto the kickdown switch....just splice into there.


Here is how to wire it up :

Pin 1 - wire to kickdown wire which is live +12V when switch is activated
Pin 2 - ignition live
[Flavio's comment: Pin 2 comes from the shift lever's starter lockout switch; it's energized whenever the lever is either on 3,2,or B.]
Pin 3 - blank
Pin 4 - Ground
Pin 5 - wire from back of speedometer to give speed pulse
Pin 6 - blank

talbir
-----------------------
Pick up the ignition live from the kickdown switch for pin 2 off the module.

Then run wire from pin 1 to the other wire on the module which becomes live only when kickdown switch is depressed.
-------------------------
Why do you make the assumption that FGS is for competing at the lights ????

You say you can only get FGS in you car if you floor it, i.e. kickdown on standstill. Well you are wrong. When you kickdown on standstill, the car actually starts in 2nd and will kickdown to first.

FGS is where the transmission is actually IDLING in 1st at standstill and therefore pulls away in 1st. The only way to achieve this is either shift down to 'B' or install a FGS module.

[Flavio's comment: Actually if you move the lever from "D" to "3", it will start in first gear too, because it will also energyze the "first gear start" pin on the FGS module.]

And with the FGS module installed, you will idle and move off in 1st gear - you don't have to floor it. No more how gently pull away, you'll be moving off in 1st.

Moreover it's less stressful on the engine/transmission if it is moving away in first. MB only forced 2nd gear starts for emissions reasons.

From 1995 onwards, all MB's were FGS from the factory. Some models were given FGS before then, but EVERY MB modl since 95 has FGS. It's how a car should be!!!!

Like I said you really got to try FGS to understand it and enjoy it.
--------------------------------
Absolutely no harm with FGS - I've had it in my w126 SEC's and w124 500E for as long as I've had the cars. It's just a different animal with FGS.

Shifting down to B and then pulling away will tell you exactly what FGS is all about. The benefit of the FGS module is that there is no manual intervention required - and neither do you have to floor it. Just put the selector in D and get on with it - the car will ALWAYS pull away in 1st, whether you floor it or whether you throttle gently as a feather....that's the beauty of FGS via the module. You are making full use of the available power without any fuss.

And the module is the only way to do it, as it automatically puts the tranny in 2nd gear at 7pmh (unless you have full throttle, in which case it will change over at redline as required).

As mentioned earlier, look under the dash of a pre 09/85 V8 and you'll see it there.
-------------------------------
YEs, pin 2 on the module is the +12V supply - so you can run this through any stock MB switch and fit the switch in the coin tray.

I have run it through an OEM w126 ASR switch on my SEC's, so you can revert back to 2nd gear start when you like. The w126 ASR is a momentary contact switch, so you have to run it through a latching relay. The way I have wired it is that default is 1st gear start - you press the switch to revert to 2nd gear when required. But next time you start the car, it will automatically be in 1st gear start. Same functionality as your rear window defroster switch...
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#60 ·
How to add an extra brake light to your existing tail-light assembly

If you're quick with soldering, this shouldn't take more than about 10 minutes a side (you can use quick connectors instead, but that might take longer). This assumes there is a wire coming from your new socket. If not, solder one on to it (about 8 or so inches long).

1. Find a couple of tail-light sockets. I found mine on eBay ($11.99 + $5 shipping).

2. Remove tail-light assemblies from inside the trunk (two tabs that twist to release each assembly).

3. Unplug the plugs (two plugs on driver's side, one on passenger side). Everything else is the same on both sides.

4. Remove screw from outlet under big plug, remove plug.

5. Pop off the metal strip with all the sockets in it (three squeeze-type clips, and yes, they are most likely brittle).

6. From the back side, push the extra socket into the empty hole at the end of the strip (toward the middle of the car). There's a tab on the socket that fits in a long and skinny rectangular hole in the strip.

7. Route the wire (careful to keep it away from where the strip snaps back onto the plastic housing) along the back, through to front to existing brake light (the one with the reflector behind it).

8. Solder new wire to existing brake-light connection on front (or use quick connector, making sure the connector won't be in the way when it's reassembled.

9. Snap the metal strip back into the black plastic piece.

10. Reattach the plugs (don't forget the screw on the big plugs).

11. Install a new bulb.

12. Install whole assembly back into trunk.

13. Have someone push on your brake pedal while you stand behind the car so you can see the formerly dead red sections closest to your license plate light up.

(Instructions are more detailed than photo, so these numbers do not correspond to numbers on photo, which is the driver's side assembly.)
 

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#61 · (Edited)
W126 BRAKE LIGHT UPGRADE

Just thought I'd post the original instructions for those interested. Additionally, buying the kit IS cheaper/easier than - your time + gas + $ for sockets + lights + wires (correct color & length) + connectors.
 

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#62 · (Edited)
tie-rod ends, center link and steering damper replacement

I replaced 'just' the tie-rod ends, the center link, and the steering damper...after a one mile test drive...wow. I merely thought the steering in this car was slop-free before. This is incredible!

It wasn't all that difficult, though to remove the center link, I asked my wife to run to the auto parts place which loans tools to get me a 'pickle fork'. I just couldn't get a decent smack on the center link's 'bolts', and after working on it for about 10 minutes, I knew a pickle fork was in order.

Using said tool, it took, literally, two minutes to remove both sides of the center link. The non-angled side goes toward the joint. If you're planning on re-using parts, beware, if you use a joint remover (pickle fork), it usually destroys the grease boot, so the part is hosed afterward.

I have a tad of toe-out now, probably due to less slop all-around, but the car is going directly to the alignment shop then the tire joint for new shoes. I may tweak it a bit, just so I feel better, but it's so nice to be able to brake firmly and not have to 'chase' the front-end's movements, albeit small ones, with odd steering inputs.

Looking at the guide rod bushings, it appears they can be backed out from behind...but that's too easy.... I can again hear them clunking, which was gone before thanks to other play in other front-end parts.

To do this job requires a 13mm socket & box end wrench (for the clamps on the tie-rod ends), 17mm (outer tie-rod end nuts), and 19mm sockets (inner tie-rod ends) (a 3/4" interchanges, BTW) and a 17mm wrench which is small enough to hold the top side of the steering damper bolts. The open-ended Mercedes wrench which I have from my wife's '81 123 diesel was perfectly sized. Oh, and a mini-sledgehammer is nice to have, too, to remove the tie-rod ends. To remove the center link, you'll have to rent/borrow/get a loaner joint seperator. A digital caliper is nice to have, so you can measure the distance the new ends need to be threaded into the tie-rod's to match where the old ones were, but it's not 100% necessary. Also, the tie-rod ends which have the smaller bolts threading on to the flexible joint's stud are on the steering spindle end of the tie-rods. The 19mm nut ones attach to the steering link from the steering box and the slave steering arm which is in front of the passenger's feet (LHD). Each will go into the hole, but I'm matching up what was OEM. The inner ones appear to be a little bit beefier.

One last thing, the tie-rods have the wheel-end joint going up through the bottom of the mount, the steering linkage end's tie-rod joint goes in through the top. It'll make sense when you look at it. Make certain you get them to be 'neutrally' aimed so they're not under stress all the time and the boot doesn't get stretched/pinched for no reason.

I took my time, and including cleaning up, test drive, and going from closed tool box to closed tool box, it was about 3.5 hours. Although, a solid 45 minutes of this was dead time waiting for a joint separator. I needed the break, anyway, so.... Plus, I'd made mistakes in aligning the tie-rod ends to attach properly to the steering spindle and the linkage, so I had to redo it. No giant deal, but it likely wasted about 20 minutes.
 
#63 ·
Adding A "Sport" Mode To Your Transmission by way of Kickdown Circuitry

Let me first address the concerns that a few people have voiced about this type of modification. It has been suggested (not by me) that wiring in a kickdown switch override or auxiliary kickdown switch will wear out and/or destroy one's transmission.

I don't think this is true, and here is why. Sure, if you just spliced the wires leading to the switch together so the car is always in kickdown mode, you would probably prematurely wear out the transmission. Fair enough. However, I believe that having a switch wired in properly that activates kickdown mode under less than full throttle is relatively harmless, for two reasons.

First, kickdown is a misleading term in the case of these transmissions; what actually happens is that the transmission's shift logic is altered, allowing downshifts under less (seemingly about 50% less) throttle and holding lower gears longer. Thus, having this operation take place under half throttle would seem to be less stressful than the same action taken under WOT. The kickdown solenoid may wear out faster, but it is relatively cheap and very simple to replace. How could half-throttle downshifts be worse for the car than full-throttle downshifts? Besides, the car downshifts without the kickdown anyway.

Second, I performed this modification 50,000 miles ago, and have experienced absolutely ZERO problems. I have changed my transmission fluid and filter twice in this time, and there has been no bizarre shrapnel in either. So, my own experience suggests that this is a perfectly safe thing to do. I have also heard from people around the world who have done the same with similar results. That said, this is a non-factory modification, so perform at your own risk, blah blah blah.

So, let's get started. First, it is very important to wire this switch in the manner shown in the diagram I provided. Crossing the wires will leave the car in KD mode all the time, and wiring the OEM switch out of the equation will prevent kickdown from occurring under typical kickdown conditions (with the switch off.) Splice one wire into each of the wires coming out of the kickdown switch (located under the gas pedal.) Then run these wires to any simple two-pole switch of your choosing. This switch needs to be a toggle-type switch, not a momentary switch. The circuit must remain closed while the switch is in the on position.

I personally prefer to make any modifications look like expensive, rare factory options, so I decided to go with a factory MB two-pole switch. The only switch that fit the bill was a rear dome light switch, so I ordered one on Feebay for five bucks. Installing it was simple; I removed my rear antenna switch since my aftermarket stereo controls the antenna anyway. The antenna switch needs to be connected to its' plug to keep the antenna functional with the stereo wired as I have it, so I simply cut the octopus leads on the switch and plugged it back in behind the climate control panel, out of sight and out of mind. Sure, I could have spliced the correct wires together instead of just putting the switch back in behind the panel, but this works just fine. You can take the switch out without removing the panel, but the panel needs to come out anyway to run wires to the kickdown switch.

From there, I decided that I needed a decal or emblem of sorts to indicate that the switch triggers "sport" mode and is not simply an upside-down dome light switch. In the interest of combining a sort of "MB inside joke" and making the car look to the untrained eye like it has an expensive factory option, I selected an original-style AMG logo. The size of the Affalterbach emblem on a set of valve stem caps I found on Feebay seemed right, so I bought a set. The logo looks pretty cool on the switch - the photo shows the switch in "AMG" mode.

As for the 50,000 miles I have logged with this switch, I tend to only use the switch when needed rather than leave it on all the time. Downshifts occur when the economy gauge nears the middle of its' travel - I suspect that "AMG mode" may also help fuel economy a bit! It is a great addition to my 300SE, letting the M103 take full advantage of its' power band. I use the switch for rapidly merging onto freeways, passing on rural highways, or just generally smoking lesser vehicles like so much Nova lox. It is also fun to convince passengers that your car has the super-rare "AMG transmission" that only you have to know did not exist!
 

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#67 ·
#68 ·
Removing and replacing plastic headlight rim (aka headlight door)

Many owners prefer switching out their US DOT headlights, which are made up of glass for the main unit with a plastic surround rim that extends medially to become a plastic cover for the foglights.

But what if you want to freshen up your car's front end while keeping your US lights? A relatively cheap option is to replace the plastic covers, which cloud up and yellow with age. New covers run about $60 apiece, and replacing them is a simple 20-30 minute job total. The improvement is pretty dramatic, making this a high-yield and easy DIY.

Instructions:

The process was very simple. There are 3 clips holding the plastic cover in place: one on top, one on the side, and one on the underside.

1) Remove side marker unit by unscrewing large round white plastic knob and pushing unit forward.

2) Unscrew nut on headlight wiper arm and outside screw on valence panel (yellow circles in photos). You don't need to remove the valence panel, but loosening it will help remove the plastic cover.

3) With a flathead screwdriver, *gently* unclip top and side clips (red circles). Then scoot under the front of your car and look up to locate the clip on the underside of the headlight housing, and unclip that too with a flathead screwdriver. Now the plastic unit should slide off.

4) Install new cover, making sure everything lines up properly. You might need to scoot back under the car to firmly secure the clip on the underside of the headlight unit.

5) Re-screw valence screw and wiper nut.

6) Re-attach side marker unit. Make sure that the two thin white tabs on the side marker slide into the slots on the light unit (green circles).

Oh, and remember to be gentle with all that old, brittle plastic...

Total time: about 20-30 minutes if you're not rushing.
 

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#71 ·
Make your own AMG Style Dual Air Intake!


Picked up a new air box top, as mine was pitted. Its in the process of being polished to perfection. Found an air box from a late 560SL which had a large driver side air intake. Also picked up a new passenger side intake for my box.

As AMG did in the 80's, I began adding the driver side intake to my remaining air box to have a dual intake setup.

Here are the pictures (Thanks to my friend for letting me borrow his because I am an idiot and forgot mine!):

Two culprits:


Began cutting the inlet attachment part out of the SL's airbox:


...And then we got impatient:


Cut out:
v


Flattened:


Clamps are your friend:


Traced:


Cut and bent.


Riveted on along with passenger side unit:


And there you have it!:
 
#72 ·
blowermotor repair, checked fuse ,not it checked motor (bench test) not it, pulled ccu nope , just not getting power, finally pulled fuse box changed post location of pink and green wire (the ones that go to inline fuse) and BINGO we got power to the blower motor again!!!!
 
#73 ·
Dash wood removal

I've removed all the wood pieces from my car, but these two pieces remain and I can't get them out. I've located a few screws behind the vent openings, but they still won't come out.

Anyone know how to remove these? Sorry for the camera phone quality.
Do not remove the dash.
To remove the right side piece:
-this small piece is held on with two 7 mm plastic nuts.

Remove the vent insert that this pice of wood surrounds.
!.Simply take a flat blade screw driver to lift the two tabs inside the vent (you can see one tab on the left inner and one tab on the right inner part of the vent opening). Just pull slightly on the front of the vent while prying the tabs one at a time. The vent should slide out of the opening.

2.Now you can take a 7 mm socket and slip it onto the small hole just inside the far right side of the vent opening and remove the plastic nut. It is only finger tight...no need for a wrench.

Now you need to remove the glove box liner.
3. With a flat blade screw driver slip the blade under the edge of the black fastners and pop them out. There are 4 or five bottom side and 4 on the top side of the glove box liner to remove. With a screw driver pry the glove box light down then slip it back through the hole it was mounted in. While using a screw driver to pry down on the glove box upper lip and pull the liner out.

Now you need to undo the second 7 mm nut using a 7 mm socket and a 6 inch extension.
4. With your left hand move the extension into the far right opening where the glove box liner was and point the socket towards you. The nut is one inch from the top of the left corner of the wood piece. Feel around with the socket till you slip it over the nut. Remove the nut.
5. Slip the piece of wood off the dash starting left to right.

I will post a couple of pics tonight. If you are still interested in this I will continue a write up on this and include instructions for the removal of the wood piece over the steering wheel (3 small screws over the center vent and 3 7 mm nuts on the back side of the wood).

The first time I did this, it took me a little over an hour to do all 3 pieces. After doing this probably 50 or 60 times it takes about 10 mins to remove all 3 wood pieces.

If you are still interested, let me know and I will post it in the morning with good pics.
Cheers
Greg

Pictures are of the drivers side, but same basic idea for passenger side.
 

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#74 ·
Removing dash wood

To remove the wood section over the steering wheel first remove the headlight knob and nut to allow the trim surround to seperate from the actual switch behind the dash. The plastic bezel stays on the wood when the wood is removed. dont worry about the ignition switch. The bezel for that switch just needs a little pry to loosen from the dash while pulling the wood away. You will see when you pull the wood from the dash.

To remove the headlight switch, throw some tape on the jaw face of some simple pliers so you don't mar the knob. Grab the switch with the pliers and give it a good pull. It will come off with slight force. Use the pliers to remove the 17 mm metal nut from the headlight switch panel.

You will need to take out the instument panel. Very easy to do and allows you access to the two 7 mm nuts on the backside of the wood on each side of the steering wheel. Using the 7 mm socket and a 6 inch extension, reach through the instrument panel opening and face the socket back towards you and "feel" for the 7 mm nuts to undo. Again, these are only on hand tight so no wrench needed. One nut to the left of the steering column and one to the right of it. Takes about ten rotations of the socket to remove. Make sure not to drop the little plastic nut or you will have to get it from under the dash ( I have a bunch of them if you lose any).

Remove the side vent to gain access to the last 7 mm nut inside the vent houseing. Remove that one.

Sitting in the passenger seat (easiest to reach screws) look up at the underside of the center vents housing. You should be able to see three tiny phillips head screws that are screwed in from the botton of the housing into the wood. Take a very small, very pointed phillips head screw driver like the one in the pictures and remove all 3 screws.

All fastners are now done!

To remove the wood, start from the right. The right end is held in with preassure and a small wooden "bump". I use a flat blade screw driver and pry from the glovebox area between the wood and the dash. Should pop that end loose. Go to the drivers seat and gently rock the wood out of the dash from the bottom of the wood.Once the whole piece of wood is loose, move the wood to the left to clear the vent stud from the dash. You may have to trun your left turn signal on to clear the turn signal stalk.

All the following pictures are pretty self explanitory. The blue tape on the wood signifies locations of either 7 mm nuts or small phillips head screws to remove. Let me know if I have left any thing out or something is not working for you.

Good luck!
Greg
 

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