I am finally done with my exams, both at work and with my evening classes. Now I am free to work on my car all weekend and all evenings. And I have all the supplies for the brake pad change, except the tubing bottle, c-clamp and brake pad grease (or anti squeal compound - I assume both are the same). I went through Dan Watt's great website. Very informative.
I couldn't find the brake pad change info on the MBUSA CDs! At one place I found that the file is referred to as 42-0160. But there is no 42-0160 in the CD. It is missing. Any how Dan Watt's website is great and is more than enough for me to work with. I searched the forum for questions that I had, and found answers for some. But I still have some questions. I thought I will post them here, so that everyone can give me their suggestions and other new DIYers can benefit from it. Here they are:
1) Do I follow the same procedure for the rear brake pads? (Except that the rear pads do not have sensors). Since the Professor, in one of his posts, says rear pads are easier, I will start off with the rear pads.
2) Applying the brake pad grease or anti squeal compound: Should I use Mercedes brand compound or any brand will do? Where all do I apply. I have attached a picture of the brake pads that I have. Should I apply on the back side of the pad (red arrows)? From the website I do see that we are going to apply along the sides (blue arrows). Should I also apply on the sides of the porus brake pad material (green arrows)?
3) This is with reference to the picture #8 in Dan Watt's website, where he is using a plastic bottle and tubing attached to the bleeder screw. What is meant by crack opening the bleeder screw? If I am not comfortable with this step, can I bypass this and still compress the pistons? I don't want to get air into my brake fluid or break something by mistake.
4) In picture #9 a clamp is used to compress the piston. Are there any precautions that I should take in doing this? Dan Watt says you can do it screw drivers too. Which is better clamp or screw driver. I don't want to damage the dust shields, as he has mentioned.
Please let me know about your thoughts, opinions, critiques and pep-words. All advice is appreciated. Thank you. Will be back with more questions about other things.
Vehicle: 1986-1991 Mercedes Benz V8 Gasoline 420 & 560 Sedans
Location: Canton Michigan
Posts: 325
Best to keep it simple stupid.
Pull the cap off the master cyl.
Take the two bolts that hold the caliper off
Have a milk crate to set the caliper on
Carefull with the pins. Wire brush them if rusty
Carefull with the pad tensioner it breaks easy.
remove the old pads. Be carefull with the sensors for the pads.
compress the piston slowly with a c-clamp
apply anti-ratte compound to the metal side of the pad
make sure the friction side of the pad faces the rotor
slide back on and tighten two bolts
put cap back on master
PUMP BRAKES UNTIL HARD
start vehicle and press down brakes a few more times
check brake fluid
Have a nice day.
NO AIR WILL GET IN UNLESS YOU OPEN THE LINES.
You can see from his photos that the caliper does not need to be removed. I do not see a reason to remove the brake master cylinder cap either. I would cover it with a rag, in case any fluid squirts out. Saves paintwork as you compress the pistons, sending fluid back to the brake master. Obvious by now, is the fact I do not open the bleeder screws. It is just a different way of doing the job. As a former line tech at a busy dealership, that's how I'd do it.
In addition, I (as Dan does) would use Channel Lock pliers to both compress the pistons & remove the pads. Just catch the pad metal backing plate tab (where the pin went through) and the caliper body... squeeze. Finish off without the worn pad.. onto the piston itself.. squeeze.
Compress with the other pad in situ, rather than removing it first as Dan does, and you won't push out the other piston as you work.
I use the Volvo anti sqeal brake grease, as that is what is in my tool box currently.
The rears are easy, done pretty much the same.
Cheers, MBL
In answer to question 3. Leave the bleeders alone, as pad replacement is new to you. You will be fine.
Keep it up, Ramesh!
Last edited by MBL87560SEC : 05-19-2006 at 08:24 AM.
Pull the cap off the master cyl.
Take the two bolts that hold the caliper off
Have a milk crate to set the caliper on"
When you think about it, isn't it easier to exert the forces needed to remove the pins, compress pistons, clean schmutz from the pad 'guides', etc. with the caliper firmly attached to the car, rather than trying to wrestle with the thing on a milk crate as you are working on it?
Added benefit: Doing the work with the caliper attached means you could sit on the milk crate & the jacked up car would present a fine working height as well.
Vehicle: 1986-1991 Mercedes Benz V8 Gasoline 420 & 560 Sedans
Location: Canton Michigan
Posts: 325
Sure dont bother to take the caliper off, put them nice brand new pads on an un-cut set of rotors! HAHAHAHAHA Amatures I tell you.
Dont remove the master cyl. cap? Are you crazy?
MBL87560SEC I guess you have never used a C-Clamp before huh?
I am sorry as I assumed this guy was going to do a brake job on his car, not a pad slap. Are you people certified in brakes and braking systems? I didnt think so.
Last edited by www_126world_com : 05-19-2006 at 08:44 AM.
Vehicle: 1986-1991 Mercedes Benz V8 Gasoline 420 & 560 Sedans
Location: Canton Michigan
Posts: 325
Quote:
Originally Posted by MBL87560SEC
Hi 126world,
"Best to keep it simple stupid.
Pull the cap off the master cyl.
Take the two bolts that hold the caliper off
Have a milk crate to set the caliper on"
When you think about it, isn't it easier to exert the forces needed to remove the pins, compress pistons, clean schmutz from the pad 'guides', etc. with the caliper firmly attached to the car, rather than trying to wrestle with the thing on a milk crate as you are working on it?
Added benefit: Doing the work with the caliper attached means you could sit on the milk crate & the jacked up car would present a fine working height as well.
A thought.
Regards, MBL
Oh and by the way, we have a nice little Snap-On rolling mini-stool we sit on. Our grimy milk crate has saved 100's of rubber brake hoses while out little fanny's stay cushoned on the pad of the smooth rolling mini-stool.
The shop manual says nothing about removing the caliper to replace the pads. It does state to open the bleed screws or use the piston retraction tool. The advantage of opening the bleed screws is to make piston retraction easier and avoid damaging the caliper or piston dust shield as some force is required to retract the piston with the screws closed.
The disadvantage to opening the bleed screws is you’ll need an airtight tube and container such as a Mity-Vac to collect the excess fluid and keep air out of the system.
Do one pad at a time, do not leave the caliper ‘padless.’
The anti-squeak paste goes on the four dots on each corner of the back metal part of the pad. Make sure you also have new anti-rattle clips a.k.a. cross springs as I’ve had old ones come apart in my hands from heat, age, and fatigue.
I replace the pads when about half worn, letting them go down to the sensor wire is too far, imo, it hyper-extends the pistons and can lead to a leaking caliper.
Good luck and have fun, it’s one of the better DIY jobs.
Vehicle: 1986-1991 Mercedes Benz V8 Gasoline 420 & 560 Sedans
Location: Canton Michigan
Posts: 325
Did anyone have a look at the massive ridge that went around the outer diameter of the photo shown in Mr.Watts web site? Anyone care to tell us what that ridge does to the brand new brake linings? Anyone else also care to tell us about the noise that can be observed in braking by not turning or re-finishing the rotors when changing brake pads? Finally isn’t it usually the guy who is "Selling" his car or just wants to squeak by that comes in the shop requesting just a "Pad Slap"?
You can change the pads without removing the caliper. Lots of people do it. Bless there souls as they can pay me now, or pay me later. New pads should be seated to a fresh cut flat surface to ensure a quiet long lasting brake job. Anyone saying otherwise is not certified.
No offence Mr.Watts but I do like your little web site. Very simple and the fact that its given freely deserves applaud.
"dont bother to take the caliper off, put them nice brand new pads on an un-cut set of rotors! HAHAHAHAHA"
Ramesh had not mentioned the discs, nor had you with your advise to him. Had he mentioned refacing worn discs, I would have recommended replacement instead, as refaced discs are thinner, and from experience are likely to pose a problem within a relatively short period of time. Volvo has recommended replacing brake discs only for brake vibration complaints, since the mid 1970's. We all made a lot of money cutting discs back then, and then there were the comebacks six months later for warped discs. I learned then that the thinner (cut) discs were generally unable to sustain a 'true' surface over time & especially so - were the car driven hard.
"Amatures I tell you." Judging from the overall tone of your post, I'd guess you meant Amateurs, right? )
"Dont remove the master cyl. cap?" Regarding the fact the cap is vented to the atmosphere and poses no problem when compressing the pistons into the calipers (the displaced fluid returns easily to the resevoir), I stand by my previous statement. An added benefit if the cap is left ON: Less chance of dirt entering the system.
"Are you crazy?" I doubt it greatly, but then again, a mental healh professional will tell you that crazy people often don't know, let alone agree that they are crazy. So I guess the question will have to remain open for now....... )
"MBL87560SEC I guess you have never used a C-Clamp before huh?" Yes, I have used one, but why do so if there is no need at the time? The Channel Locks will pull the loosened retaining pins, remove pads, compress the pistons, and refit the pins into the calipers. Just made more sense to me, using a versatile, time saving tool like that. That said, the C-Clamp does an excellent job of compressing the pistons....
"I am sorry as I assumed this guy was going to do a brake job on his car, not a pad slap."Ramesh was simply opening a discussion on his upcoming brake pad change. He states no other issues regarding the brakes. As far as we know, this is a straightforward pad replacement. So why don't we just: "...keep it simple stupid"
"Are you people certified in brakes and braking systems? I didnt think so." I imagine that shop is brake certified, being the largest Volvo dealership in the Boston metro area. Very high customer satisfaction level, last time I checked. I haven't worked there since 1985.
benzworld is a good site, full of enthusiasts of many different needs & appreciation. Generally, this group is helpful and friendly to one another. Over time, I think you will find that proves true. Please consider chilling a bit. I think a positive first impression is very difficult (perhaps impossible) with guns drawn.
I expect you'll have more fun in the long run.
Regards & Good Luck, MBL
Last edited by MBL87560SEC : 05-19-2006 at 11:05 AM.
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