First time changing the timing chain. It's really not hard at all. Anyone thinking of changing it 'soon' best DO IT NOW! My car has 157k on the clock with 5degree stretch.
I can't imagine another job this easy for as technical as it sounds. If you DIY, just take it slowly and take advise from this forum. If you recall that post from someone here titled "buy a lottery ticket" my case was similiar. Driver side top rail was broken in half and was grinding between the idle pullys. Tensioner rail is grind down to the minimal, while the pass. top rail snaped during the rolling process of the new chain. Lastly, the only problematic encounter I had was the damn top pin on the driver side. My 'puller bolt' broken off inside the pin and this trial and error process to drill, tap, grind, and cut took an additional 3 days!!! All and all, this was a smooth sailing job.
Parts replaced:
New Chain
New Tensioner
3 top sliding rails (2x172mm and 1x142mm)
1 tensioner guide rail (don't buy the whole piece with the metal and all, you can find just the top plastic replacement for a fraction of the cost. $7 vs. $40)
2 sets of oil line clips.(dealer item)
2 valve cover gaskets.
That's about it, cost: ~$200 from Mr-auto-parts.com
Well worth the time and experience. I will consider changing timing chain for any other car I purchase in the future as a post purchase maintainence to give a fresh start.
Thanks for this forum, in the meantime, I have to sort out the shaky idle and hot start issues.
Cheers,
Brian
I can't imagine another job this easy for as technical as it sounds. If you DIY, just take it slowly and take advise from this forum. If you recall that post from someone here titled "buy a lottery ticket" my case was similiar. Driver side top rail was broken in half and was grinding between the idle pullys. Tensioner rail is grind down to the minimal, while the pass. top rail snaped during the rolling process of the new chain. Lastly, the only problematic encounter I had was the damn top pin on the driver side. My 'puller bolt' broken off inside the pin and this trial and error process to drill, tap, grind, and cut took an additional 3 days!!! All and all, this was a smooth sailing job.
Parts replaced:
New Chain
New Tensioner
3 top sliding rails (2x172mm and 1x142mm)
1 tensioner guide rail (don't buy the whole piece with the metal and all, you can find just the top plastic replacement for a fraction of the cost. $7 vs. $40)
2 sets of oil line clips.(dealer item)
2 valve cover gaskets.
That's about it, cost: ~$200 from Mr-auto-parts.com
Well worth the time and experience. I will consider changing timing chain for any other car I purchase in the future as a post purchase maintainence to give a fresh start.
Thanks for this forum, in the meantime, I have to sort out the shaky idle and hot start issues.
Cheers,
Brian