Out of curiosity what kind of pads are those? I see they don't come w/ any anti squeal shims attaches.
Might I also recommend that people apply anti squeal paste to the back of the pad.. I'm partial to the Mercedes paste..keeps all my cars nice and Quiet:)
Jonathan
YEAH, WE ONLY USE PAGID, TEXTAR, JURID, ATE[:D]
__________________ http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1551324
86 420 SEL, 86 560 SL, 86 560 SEC(selling), 77 300 D(selling), 87 190 D 2.5(sold), 69 280 SE(selling), 01 ML 320(sold), 02 C 230K (sold), 83 300 CD, 04 ML 350
I used to use the BIG channel locks until now. This month's Star magazine brought up a really good reason to crack the bleed screw - that pushes out the brake fluid that has been exposed to the most heat, the fluid in the calipers. Makes sense to me.
Y'all take care, y'hear?
Mike R.
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Blasphemous Mike
US '87 560SEC with Euro headlights, clear markers, H&Rs, 18x8.5, ATE slotted rotors with semi-metallics, BergWerks FGS, 3.07 Limited Slip.
In progress - FrankenBenz SEC: GM LS6 5.7L engine with custom 4L60E 4-spd overdrive transmission, GM rack and pinion.
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
Thanks for the compliments everybody. I'm thinking about putting together a web site for just the w126. I've got a server with more than enough bandwith and space, just need to get around to doing it.
To answer some other questions:
The brand of brake pad I used was Raybestos Professional Grade. $20 at the parts store I work at. They stop great, just like the Mercedes pads I had on before, and for the price, I decided to try them out. They do make a little bit of a squeal sometimes, so I'm going to order some Textars and return the current ones under warranty.
Also, proper torque for the wheels is 80 ft lbs. All Mercedes wheels use this same torque except for wheels with 14mm studs... they use 120 ft lbs I believe (could be mistaken).
I don't know why, but I always use Textar pads. I have changed my front pads 4 times and find it very easy as well. I don't use a bleeder tool, I just pump the brakes when I get everything back together with the wheels back on of course.
Nice illustration on the brake job. Just one note on pushing the brake fluid back through the system without cracking the bleeder. It may damage the ABS system. On my other cars I never worried about this, but on my 560 I cracked the bleeder when changing the pads, then evacuated the entire system and put in new. After years of driving, heat and moisture that enters the system, and hours worth of bleeding the brakes with a fresh change is well worth the time.
Excellent point Mike. I think the next pad change I will flush the brake system. I wouldn't think that the high temps would hurt the fluid that much, but changing it ever other or every third pad set would be a good idea....By the way the Pagid pads and ATE rotors are working excellently. No squeeling, stops on a dime.
Dan, what type of bleeder is that?
Linear Mode
