'87 300sdl, changed both spin on and inline filters. System is self priming so air should purge but i did fill up spin on with diesel purge before replacing.
NO GO!
Turning over but not starting even after cranking ~ 1 min (as owner man suggests) and I do let starter rest ~15min before trying again.
Should I try to manually purge fuel thru fuel pump in order to prime?
HELP??[:(]
The 300d engine is notorious for not starting after replacement of the fuel filters. It is self bleeding and will eventually start if you keep turning it over(I have flattened batteries in the past and had to recharge them before continuing).
It will speed the process up by purging the filter, or even loosening all the injector pipes off during cranking and tightening them once the air is no longer coming through.
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Work is the curse of the drinking class!
well finally did start and what may have made the difference was that I siphoned on the injector bypass hose that returns to the gas tank until I got a trickle and it finally started!
THANX
[:p]
Just wanted to share my fuel filter change story...this forum has given me so much I felt the need to give back. I have a 300SDL and have been using biodiesel for the last 10K miles with great results. I recently changed my prefilter and main screw on fuel filter as it had suddenly lost power and was idling roughly. My car sat unstarted for 5 or 6 days before I changed out the filter. That was a mistake. It’s always easier to start my car once it’s been running. She always starts on the first try but when it’s cold or sat for a long time she shudders. My manual says to floor the pedal and turn it over for up to a full minute to purge the line of air which I tried. This is where I had problems. My battery could not keep up the constant start and it was soon drained from my efforts. I recharged the battery overnight at the local 76 station to 13.5 volts and tried again the next day. After much smoke and shaking I am happy to say she is alive once again! Next time I will make sure to have a nice hot engine and a good strong battery. Pre filling the filter is also a good idea. I did open up my gas tank to release the vacuum...it did make a sucking sound so it may have been part of the issue of getting the fuel to flow…but not sure. Overall my car is smoother at idle and the power is back. Reading through all these posts really helped me so thanks everyone for taking the time to write.
I just did a filter change and have the same problem. Won't start! I cranked it 'till the battery went flat, recharged it, and tried again. The question I have is when I pulled the line off the clear in-line filter and crank the engine, no fuel comes out...Should it?
OK, I talked to my local mechanic and he said 20-30 pumps of the primer won't do it. He said I would need to prime it for 2-3 minutes sometimes. I tried that and it worked. The only problem is that it runs like crap and I don't have much power. I will have to check the injectors to see if whatever clogged the filter, got into the injectors.
OK, I talked to my local mechanic and he said 20-30 pumps of the primer won't do it. He said I would need to prime it for 2-3 minutes sometimes. I tried that and it worked. The only problem is that it runs like crap and I don't have much power. I will have to check the injectors to see if whatever clogged the filter, got into the injectors.
Stop going to that mechanic.
Your 617 is very different than the 603. Did you replace both filters?
With the 617 it takes about five to eight pumps for perhaps fifteen seconds, if that long.
The procedure is to replace both the inline and canister filter. The inline filter filters the IP, the canister filters the injectors, that’s why the canister filter is configured not unlike an oil filter. When installing the new canister filter don’t tighten it, leave it loose on the mount. Then unscrew the hand pump to pump the air out of the system. As noted it does not take many pumps. Very soon you’ll see bubbles come out of the top of the canister filter. When only fuel comes out of the canister filter, tighten it fast to the mount. The engine may still need to crank but it should start fairly easily.
I suspect you either did not remove all the air from the system or you have an air/fuel leak, it would explain the rough running engine. I recommend you follow the above air purge procedure and check it again.
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1991 300 SE (w126.024/M103.981) 140,000 miles
I'm not saying your wrong, but that mechanic is a 20+ year diesel mechanic at the dealer, so if anything it was likely my lack of explaining it well...
I was looking around the injectors and noticed quite a bit of fuel around the outside of the front one. I guessed it was because of too much back pressure so I pulled the injector to take a look and it looks like crap. It has a lot of buildup on the nozzle. The car has over 200k miles on it so I think I will replace them with new ones. I saw the Bosio replacement nozzles on dieselgiant for $36, but I can't see why I shouldn't get the entire rebuilt Bosch injector for $38 from autohouzaz. I thought I saw info on this here, but couldn't find it. Any ideas?
Last edited by kyleharvey : 07-16-2007 at 12:24 PM.
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