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1995 E320 ball joint LCA options

6K views 38 replies 13 participants last post by  w124_owner 
#1 ·
Well it's time for new ball joints and lower control arms for my E320. Here are my options:

1. Buy new but lower quality Febi/TRW LCA and integrated balljoints since Lemfoerders aren't available anymore.

2. Convert my 95 LCA and ball joint to the W124 93 or 95 cabrio separate LCA and ball joint to get Lemfoerder quality balljoints.

3. Repack balljoint and replace LCA bushings IF joints are still good.




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#2 ·
I am in the same situation as you are. The two choices are to pay $150 or so each for Febi/TRW or $450 or so each for MB. I have read too many posts regarding poor quality of Febi and paying $1K just for two arms is bit too much. I found a local guy who said he might be able to repack the ball joints and so, going to give him a try.

Otherwise, I will give Febi a try to buy some time and look for better options.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Option 2 may not be possible without replacing the brake caliper, rotor, and protective plate due to the wider balljoint housing of the separate LCA. I'm limited to either repacking or buying the cheaper TRW LCA w/ balljoint combo as $900 for OEM is worth more than the car. I've seen positive reviews in Amazon for the TRW LCA w/ balljoint.


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#6 ·
Keep in mind there are two FEBI's....The clear booted ones and the black booted ones.

Mine were repacked febi black boot, sold as Beck Arnley arms.
I bought them because the Beck Arnley website image is of a genuine MB arm, but turned out to be FEBI.

My experience is with the black booted ones, not the clear boot.
 
#11 ·
Well I had to do the same on a R129 and chose the febi route. The new lca's said they were made in Spain and they seemed like build quality was ok. I went with the whole lca since by just replacing the ball joint you miss replacing the rubber bushings on the arms themselves. To me that was important also. I have not put many miles on it yet so only time will tell. The MB ones were simply too much money since I also replaced springs, struts and spring insulators at the same time.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Well I finally came around to working on my E320's front suspension - the driver's side at least. I'll work on the passenger side next week.

I replaced the tie rod with Hamburg Technic rods from eBay as they came as a pair. I'll see how long this will last compared to Lemfoerders. No more clunking over potholes.

I also replaced the strut mounts with Meyle mounts from eBay and that was a little hard to do with the strut lowered and supported by a jack. I could already notice the difference with a tauter ride.

I then just repacked and rebooted the ball joint after opening it up and finding no play and rust. I had bought a new ball joint boot set and cleaned up the old grease then put on new grease. I had also tested the ball joint for play using the method in the DIY and there was no play. Control arm bushings were still intact.

Anyways, the hard part was using the jack as a support to the LCA while rebooting the ball joint. It was nerve wracking knowing the coil springs is just inches away trying to kill or maim you. The inner spring compressor I rented from Autozone didn't fit. I had to lower and raise the LCA with the jack to get the ball joint pin out once and back in several times very, very slowly and carefully.

Anyways, all three job done on driver's side in two hours. I'll tackle the other side next week.


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#13 · (Edited)
Bad news. My passenger side ball joint has some play in it, maybe 1 to 2 mm downwards, but with some resistance. After cleaning it of the old grease, there was no sign of rust. I just repacked it with grease and rebooted it until I get new balljoint / lower control arm combos for both sides.

My question is, how long can I still drive this car with a repacked balljoint with some play but no rust? Can I still drive it while waiting for parts or should it not be driven at all?


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#14 ·
Bad news. My passenger side ball joint has some play in it, maybe 1 to 2 mm down. After cleaning it of the old grease, there was no sign of rust. I just repacked it with grease and rebooted it until I get a balljoint lower control arm combo for both sides.

My question is, how long can I still drive this car with a repacked balljoint with some play but no rust? Can I still drive it while waiting for parts or should it not be driven at all?


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I'm normally on the W201 and W126 forums, but my W201 has the same front suspension. The critical part to replace is the ball joint as it is the only thing connecting your LCA to your hub. I replaced just the ball joints on my car, as I could not justify the expense of a spring compressor and brand new arms (and can't really afford it as a college student either).

Ball joints are a must replace item on these cars, a friend of mine and his dad almost plowed their 300E into a ditch because the ball joint separated, the spring left the perch, and the whole hub/strut assembly decided to leave the rest of the car (the car was junked for $50 after that). The joints themselves are $17 for Lemforder, and I used a harbor freight ball joint press to press them out, but they are a pain in the ass to press out without the MB press (I think you can rent one from some guy on peachparts for like $35 + shipping).

If you don't have the cash for even the cheapest LCA, then please at least do the ball joints. The LCA bushings won't leave you stranded or cause an accident and should be the last of your worries if strapped for cash.

By the way, the failure mode for these ball joints is that the ball shoots out of the worn socket.
 
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#15 · (Edited)
Thanks. My 1995 W124 balljoints are built in to the LCA. I wish I could just replace the balljoints like the older version.

I already ordered the BJ/LCA's for both sides. It'll take 2 - 3 weeks to arrive. I was just wondering if I can still drive this car during that time until I replace them.

Then I'd have to find some way to rent an MB spring compressor as the ones at the parts store do not fit.


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#16 ·
You should be able to, but I'd try to drive it as little as possible until you complete the repair.
 
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#19 ·
I tried a cheap compressor but the plates were too thick to fit the coil gaps. I sold a mid tier one that worked for me to another be member and he reported it didn't fit his coils.
So it looks like they're not all created equal. And spring sag happens.

Another member had the same experience as me too.
Make sure you can return if necessary.
 
#20 ·
This is the one I bought off eBay about 7 or so yrs ago. This far, it has worked like a champ on every MB (201, 124, 140) I've had during that period and more that one junk yard car and loan out.

Everyone is speaking the truth in this thread. Mine is just another experience.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Thanks for the inputs. I think I'll just buy a coil spring compressor from eBay just like the previous photo. I'll probably only use it a handful of times. I wish there was a place to just rent it here on the islands.

The LCA replacement job doesn't look that hard. I just need to:

- loosen the LCA bolts,
- unbolt the antiroll bar,
- unbolt the outer tie rod,
- compress and zip tie the spring to hang from the top perch while the LCA is supported by a jack,
- unbolt the balljoint,
- lower LCA and remove the LCA bolts.

Installation is reverse plus the LCA bolts are torqued with the LCA loaded or supported by a jack.

I don't think that I even have to remove brakes and speed sensors. I mean the entire strut will be hanging from the upper strut mount.



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#22 ·
If you are going to the trouble of compressing the spring I would remove it and replace the spring pads as well. They are very cheap but come in different thickness so you will need to determine which one you have. Likely the dealer is your best bet for that.

You also don't want to leave the spring compressed for any longer than is needed to just remove and install.
 
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#24 ·
That's right. Last time I rebooted the balljoints i let the spring pressure separate the balljoint pin from the strut with a jack supporting the LCA. Will have to do this again.

Yes, I should replace the spring pads too. They must still be the original.


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#25 · (Edited)
Ball Joint/Lower Control Arm Question

So I bought a 95 E320 Wagon in December 2016, $350.00 with 327,xxx miles.

Cold AC.
I put Fresh paint on it a week ago, Jade Green metallic: paint code 300.
Serviced the tranny, still slight flare between 2-3 & 3-4 gears (was worst before)

Sweet ride.
Before I decided to purchase the car I've seen a few parked along the highway with one front wheel straight forward and the other at a 90 degree angle...

So I figure I'd be proactive and order me some ball joints. The Parts House sold me a pair that can be installed into the LCA.

Well it seems like the previous owner replaced the lower control arms with ones from a 93 300E because my 95 E320 LCA looks weird...Why am I being punished?

Can some one confirm this for me.

The arms that are installed on the care right now has an angle where the ball joints are, and the two ears are not there to receive a tool.

I don't have pics tonight but would produce some in the morning.

BTW my 95 Wagon LCA looks just like those on the OP pics.
 
#26 ·
Trazique, post some pics. As far as I know the 94 -95 E320's came with balljoints integrated to the lower control arm. You cannot press out the balljoint from the LCA. You need to buy the entire LCA that comes with the balljoint already installed.


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#29 · (Edited)
#30 · (Edited)
Noted.

Yea mine is definitely the Late LCA, I tried uploading pics, the thing just took too long.

Coming to think of it, I'm not sure I need ball joints. I definitely need tie rods for sure.
I called myself testing for defective ball joints; lifted the wheel off the ground at about 2'' by placing a jack under the LCA.

I then wedged a crow bar under the tire, and lifted the wheel while feeling for free play: None.
I performed that same test on my CLK which did reveal defective ball joints.

However rocking the wheel at the 9 and 3 o'clock position did reveal a very worn tie rod.
 
#31 · (Edited)
That's one way to check it. Most likely you just need a tie rod. You can also just repack and reboot the BJ if there's a tear on the boot, no rust on the BJ, and no play on the balljoint.

http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Maintenance/94_95/3355.pdf

PS. Passenger side balljoints tend to wear out more than driver side. Make sure to check both and not make the mistake that I made.

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#34 ·
FYI, you can fit pre-facelift control arms on the facelift models. I installed pre-facelift control arms on my 95 wagon.

Two modifications that you have to make.
1. You will have to cut a part of your brake dust shield
2. You have to grind down the section I circled in red on the prefacelift control arms so that there is enough room for the rotors.

The space is tight, but if you grind enough it will fit perfect

Notes: if you have upgrade brakes, it probably will not work
 

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#37 ·
any news on Febi or TRW control arms?

Hello Mercedes owners,
A little background about me: I live in Canada and have a 1995 E320 sedan with 186,000 KMs. I am in the process of replacing steering linkages and tie rods to do wheel alignment and noticed all the information about the late style lower control arms. Although I think my original lower arms are still ok but eventually I have to deal with this issue. I called the dealer here for those LCA and the are a whopping 730$ each which is insane and I can't ever spend that much on my car.
I am just wondering what is the experience of those people who installed Febi or TRW? are they still going ok?
 
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