Just bought 320ce '93 in good general condition with many extras, it has 193k kms on clock and was property of now retired mechanic. for last 5 years car done less than 10k km (150km since 08.2015). The car has the 5 auto transmission and ASD diff. The seller ( the son of the owner) told me all luquids were changed last year. He told me he used Castrol Transmax z (mb spec 206.81) and told me its original color is clear. When took of dip stick it is clear/amber colour. So the problems are:
When cold, switching from P to D is soft, and changing gears is gentle too, but when coolant temp reaches 70-80 degrees, switching to D produces strong kick, switching to R is not so strong. In movement when hot, switching gears is ok, but when stopping fast, i feel like the tranny has a slight delay lowering the gear + light kick. Also I hear noise from back (diff?) while on 2 and 3 gear and only while accelerating , noise dissapears after 80km/h.A friend told me the noise can come from tranny and can be transferred trough drive shaft and make it appear like its comming from back.I took a look at the diff and its all oiled on the passenger side. Seller said it has new fluid in 2015. I did scan with blink code reader and transmission control unit gives no errors.
Sorry for my english and long post. I am about to change atf plus filter.
is it possible that the Castrol Atf is causing this kick when gets hot or is tranny problem? i know they have fame of not so good trannys.
What atf do you recomend? Im from spain. online i have found Repsol Atf, Valvoline longlife atf, Motul multi, Castrol dex II, all of them syntetics (price 7-13€ per litre). or best choise is always MB atf?(17€ per litre)
thanks in advance!
I would start with a fluid and filter change too. Dexron III is the recommended fluid for your transmission. It sounds like you may have a bad front flex disk. I would do that next. Inspect the rear flex disk but it's probably OK at that mileage.
sbaert, i will purchase 10l, in the wiki post it says 6.5l are needed for atf change and 1-2 liters for flush. what filter do you recomend? MB or Knecht?
deanyel, rear flex is ok, no cracks. i need to check front this weekend when i swap wheels from my other c124. but i doubt it will be flex as when cold, there is no kick when putting in D from P.
My 722.5 box got an MB filter and MB (D3 spec) fluid. That cured an intermittent no-reverse situation despite the specialist saying that the box needed to be rebuilt.
I have the 722.5 transmision as well, and these are the annoying things that happen:
– when switched from P or D to R, the car kicks very strongly to the back; you have to push the break pedal really hard otherwise the car might hit a close car or a wall behind you;
– after start, the transmission sometimes switches to 1st gear and struggles to go back to 2nd; it switches to 2nd after a while at 4000-4500 rpm what is not very good for the cold engine; or I have to stop, go to P, then back to D (but this did not always help);
– the 4th electronic gear doesn't work; but this is the less annoying of all (a specialist tried to fix this already and his conclusion was that the valve body is not ok)...
I guess I will change oil for that Fuchs Titan 4000 and see what happens. but if somebody has an idea of what might cause those things, please do not hesitate to share it. thx.
I have the 722.5 transmision as well, and these are the annoying things that happen:
– when switched from P or D to R, the car kicks very strongly to the back; you have to push the break pedal really hard otherwise the car might hit a close car or a wall behind you;
– after start, the transmission sometimes switches to 1st gear and struggles to go back to 2nd; it switches to 2nd after a while at 4000-4500 rpm what is not very good for the cold engine; or I have to stop, go to P, then back to D (but this did not always help);
– the 4th electronic gear doesn't work; but this is the less annoying of all (a specialist tried to fix this already and his conclusion was that the valve body is not ok)...
What I usually do, depending on your traffic environment, is try to keep it in that low gear for as long as possible. If need be, keep the transmission in 2 or 3 if that is what it takes to keep the revs up until the engine reachest at least 60c. This will help heat up the engine and trans as quickly as possible and ultimately extend the service life of the exhaust components by eliminating moisture as quickly as possible
thanks to all for the clues and hints. now the car is sleeping in the garage because roads full of salt and gravel dirt out there.
I guess I will try all the suggestions and hopefully one of them or a combination of them will make the transmission work properly.
rayhennig: yes, I guess my car is driving on 5th most of time. when I push the gas there is veeery big delay until it downshifts and my guess is that it is "looking for" the 4th, does not find it and then shifts to 3rd. the kickdown is also not there although the pedal seems to reach the switch. (btw, I owned a Peugeot 406 Coupe, 3.0, 152 kW, with 4-speed automatic transmission and downshifting and kickdown was a joy, the car was much more agile than my CE now. I also drove my friend's 1997 W210 E50 and the transmission was simply magnificent).
Richard F: no, easing off the gas does not help. the car is stuck on 1st and what usually helps is to stop, shift to P, then back to D and go. or push it up to around 4000rpm and "enjoy" the kick...
I have finally changed the fluid! Result is more power and responsiveness from the transmission, less gass for more pleasure ?, kick when switching to D is stil present but to R almost dissapeared.
I noticed transmission mount needs replacing, will try to do it and will share results.
Hi again!
I have spoken and went to a drive this week with a friend mechanic, he said he had same simptoms - the kick when switching from P to D or R, or D to R with his bmw e39, he told me that the problem are the worn discs and he will be able to repair it, i will be helping him and will post pics when we are going to do the job.
I am planning to purchase complete rebuild kit and obviously new atf and filter.
I was wondwring, what are the symptoms of bad torque converter? Anybody can share experience?
Thanks in advance!
on my 722.5 I had the solenoid tested and it works. so the next step was supposed to be a test with changing the HGS unit and checking cables. but meanwhile a leak of my fresh fuchs ATF appeared and the gearbox had to go out.
also the "stuck on 1st gear when cold" seems to be gone – 2 bent plastic tubes had to be changed.
on my 722.5 I had the solenoid tested and it works. so the next step was supposed to be a test with changing the HGS unit and checking cables. but meanwhile a leak of my fresh fuchs ATF appeared and the gearbox had to go out.
also the "stuck on 1st gear when cold" seems to be gone – 2 bent plastic tubes had to be changed.
Thanks Raoul Duke,
when I was scanning for dtc's last week, auto tranny gave no errors, so i think HGS should be fine.
In general, switching gears is ok, except 3rd, when accelerating harder ( not to the bottom) i think it slips, 3rd grar then is verry short, then switches do 4th. And when lowering from 4th to 3rd there is noticeable and audible kick too. Sorry for my bad english.
adding a fluorescent dye to the oil and using a UV flashlight can help, too. keep track of what color dyes you've used where and don't use the same color in two places...
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